Could be interference from the 5 volt regulator module since they are mounted on top of each other. Can you separate them?

 

Could be interference from the 5 volt regulator module since they are mounted on top of each other. Can you separate them?

Yes, I will do that and let you know. Thank you

 

Could be interference from the 5 volt regulator module since they are mounted on top of each other. Can you separate them?

Hello, well definitely improved. The response to the touch behave as it's supposed to.
I also retach the 1M ohm resistor to check the IR receiver behavior. It turns on with no problem, after waiting a couple minutes, I tried turning it off with the remote, it turns off but almost immediately turn back on by itself, no matter how many times I tried with the remote to turn it off. Once I use the touch, a couple tries and it turns off, if I keep using the touch all works well. Hmmm the dc/dc is separated by 20 cm, I don't think that would still be the problem. What else could be.!!!

 

Possible some IR interference getting through the receiver. 20cm should be plenty but you really don't need that 360 module.
A small linear regulator or even a zener diode is all the regulation needed. What is the 12 volt supply, a battery?

 

Possible some IR interference getting through the receiver. 20cm should be plenty but you really don't need that 360 module.
A small linear regulator or even a zener diode is all the regulation needed. What is the 12 volt supply, a battery?

Yes, connected to a 12v battery.
I noticed when I put my hand shielding from TV light source, it behave better, the irony is the TV and the lamp are in the same room. I thought this devices are supposed to be immune to that kind of interference. These vs1838 come all plastic black and the one I am using has a metal cover around.
Is there anything I can do, besides hidden it a corner!!

 

Suppose to be but never 100%. Have you tried using different buttons on the remote?

 

Suppose to be but never 100%. Have you tried using different buttons on the remote?

I have, but what difference that will make? Is there a way to make it to behave more reliable?
I was hoping this setup was the one I could use for sure.
If I'm not able to make it work reliable, what kind of design would you recommend?
I'm just trying to see what I might have to do in order to have a remote switching option.
How the pros do it?

 

I was going to ask you if the lamp and the TV were in the same room, but I totally forgot.

So, using the TV remote will turn your lamp on and off whenever you use it.

I think your only option other than a dedicated remote and receiver is going to be using an Arduino with the proper library and use one of the buttons not in use by the TV.

Of perhaps a remote for some other unit not in use in the room. (perhaps an old VCR)

 

Without one of those touch modules on hand it's hard to say how to improve the operation.
You could try replacing the the 1M resistor with a capacitor. Start with a 100nf and see if that works.

 

Without one of those touch modules on hand it's hard to say how to improve the operation.
You could try replacing the the 1M resistor with a capacitor. Start with a 100nf and see if that works.

Alright, I will give it a try. The cap should be a ceramic one with no polarity, correct?
The 100nF will be a 102 or 103, not sure.

 

A 104 but you could also try the 102 and 103. Non polarized.

 

A 104 but you could also try the 102 and 103.

Will do... Report back when done.

 

A 104 but you could also try the 102 and 103. Non polarized.

Well, I used the 104, at power on, the test lamp turn on but I can't turn off.
No the touch pad or remote can turn it off.
I tried a few times (power back on and off) no joy.

 

Nice try anyway. Are you ready to go with a micro.

 

Nice try anyway. Are you ready to go with a micro.

Well, all depends how much investment and complexity.
I do have a couple programmers, one is the Arduino uno, the other one is called I think dragon for avr mcu's. I'm not sure where they are right now ( maybe 2), I had some attiny85 mcu.
Anyway, hope it is not too complex.

 

Other choice I know that works is the 555-4017 combo. I have another circuit using just a 555 and a transistor that looks promising if you have a breadboard to test on.

 

Other choice I know that works is the 555-4017 combo. I have another circuit using just a 555 and a transistor that looks promising if you have a breadboard to test on.

I'm willing to try it. I just would like to ask if you could please use the actual components and show how are connected, it easy for me to follow.
I do have 555 timers, I don't have the cd4017. I will look too see what else I have and let you know.
Thank you for your time...

 

This is the circuit, see if you have the needed components. The LED is for test purposes only.

 

This is the circuit, see if you have the needed components. The LED is for test purposes only.
View attachment 296958

Yeah, I think I do have most of them, the electrolytic caps for it's values I'm not sure.
I will try put together and test it. Will get back to you with the results.
Thank you again for your assistance.

 

Yeah, I think I do have most of them, the electrolytic caps for it's values I'm not sure.

Go back and take another look at the schematic I just edited it.