Driving a mosfet pnp with an IR receiver.

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
Hello to all good folks...
I'm looking for a solution to turn on and off a 12v lamp ( I made it myself, it uses around 12 watts) using an IR receiver (the one I have at the moment is the tsop1780).

Because the IR receiver works with up to 5v, I thought I could use a pnp transistor to switch the 12v lamp on/off, but it didn't work. So, I thought a 5v really will do the job, testing the circuit just with a LED, I saw and heard that LED blink fast and hear the relay switch on and off very fast too. But it doesn't stay on.

Watching and reading around the internet, I remember that MOSFETs keep their state on or off without requiring a continuous signal (from the IR receiver). So trying to find the right fit has been challenging with the uncertainty it might not even work.

I would prefer not to use Arduino or any MCU, even the use of the cd4017 looks like a waist, so many pins left unused. Anyway, I don't have a lot of room and I prefer something small I could hide. I have used a relay module before to accomplish something similar, but not a pretty thing to look at, my reason to find a smaller way.... Thank you in advance for any advice and/or help. Just a quick note , a drawing of any solution will be greatly appreciated. I'm not very knowledgeable with electronics and a picture to follow in how to connect and solder the components will be wonderful. Best regards
 

Pyrex

Joined Feb 16, 2022
212
Hi,
Didn't you make a mistake - tsop1780 ? I can't found a datasheet of this.
Anyway, you need to add a d-type flip flop for latching. A lot of logic IC can be used for that. And you do not need high speed to control a lamp, so a slowest CMOS can be used for that
 

Ian0

Joined Aug 7, 2020
8,939
Switch the 12V on the negative side of the power supply. You can just use an N-channel logic-level MOSFET and connect the gate to the 5V output.
 

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
Hi,
Didn't you make a mistake - tsop1780 ? I can't found a datasheet of this.
Anyway, you need to add a d-type flip flop for latching. A lot of logic IC can be used for that. And you do not need high speed to control a lamp, so a slowest CMOS can be used for that
Hello, good morning.
Terrible sorry for the mistake, the IR receiver is tsop1738.
The flip flop you mentioned, I have never used them, could you be kind and mention a part number please and if you have a little time could you draw or tell me how it should be connected.
I appreciate for your reply and appreciate your input.... Good day
 

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
Switch the 12V on the negative side of the power supply. You can just use an N-channel logic-level MOSFET and connect the gate to the 5V output.
Thank you very much friend, I appreciate your suggestion.
I have not much knowledge in how electronic work, could you be kind and draw a quick sketch in how it should be connected please. One thing I know, I wasn't able to use a npn transistor due to the output of the tsop1738. So I had to use an pnp transistor. The mosfet could be a good choice because of the way they function. I just would like to have a part number and how should a npn mosfet will be connected. I thought it was needed to use a pnp mosfet... Thank you for your time and help
 

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
hi jr,
How are you controlling the TSOP1738.?
It requires a set sequence of pulses, this is my Blog entry for that device.

https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/ubs/tsop1738-when-used-as-a-beam-break-detector.729/

E
Hi... Well, not sure what you mean about controlling it.
I used it as an input to the circuit in order to switch on and off the lamp, I triggered it with a TV remote. The output of the tsop1738 is connected to the gate of a pnp transistor. Testing it with a LED, it just flicker very rapidly, but doesn't stay on.
The IR receiver works with 5v, and the lamp works with 12v. That's why I was trying to use a pnp transistor to switch on and off the lamp.
Thank you for your patience, hope I did answer your question. Good day
 

sghioto

Joined Dec 31, 2017
5,088
Testing it with a LED, it just flicker very rapidly, but doesn't stay on.
When you press the button on the TV remote it sends a series of data pulses which is why the LED flickers and shuts OFF once the button is released. The pulses can be rectified and filtered and a latch circuit will keep the LED ON but the problem now is how to turn it OFF again. The TV IR receiver uses a chip for decoding the pulses for various functions. The decoding is normally done using a micro. Most 8 pin microchips would suffice and provide the smallest footprint.
 
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Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
When you press the button on the TV remote it sends a series of data pulses which is why the LED flickers and shuts OFF once the button is released. The pulses can be rectified and filtered and a latch circuit will keep the LED ON but the problem now is how to turn it OFF again. The TV IR receiver uses a chip for decoding the pulses for various functions. The decoding is normally done using a micro. Most 8 pin microchips would suffice and provide the smallest footprint.
Well, thanks for the suggestion...
I'm trying to go a more simple route, avoiding mcu's, Arduino, etc. Cause then you need to program them... Anyway, I appreciate your suggestion.
 

ElectricSpidey

Joined Dec 2, 2017
2,628
Perhaps the OP could take those pulses and input them into an RC network connected to a Schmitt inverter or comparator and then on to a toggle F/F.

I don't know...just thinking out loud here.
 
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sghioto

Joined Dec 31, 2017
5,088
[QUOTE="jriofrio said. Cause then you need to program them.
[/QUOTE]
True, but literally 4 or 5 lines of code with the right micro
 

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
Here is my basic concept.

View attachment 296851
Wow, that's a fine design.... Because of my limited experience with electronics, I have a little difficulty in following it. I tried to recreate it using the actual components look but I have no knowledge of LT1017 and CD4013B, so I can't draw how the connection will go (if you could that will help to understand how all it's put together). I usually just use pencil and paper.
Hope my drawing is not that bad. I appreciate very much your time put on this.
A question if I may: in my research looking for a solution, I found this component that could potentially simplify my circuit solution, I have not able to find it anywhere. Perhaps you will know where to look and advise if it is something to look into.
"KSM-60ꙷLM consist of a PIN Photodiode of high
speed and a preamplifier IC in the package as an
receiver for Infrared remote control systems"
Thank you again Polish_20230621_204509089.jpgPolish_20230621_204509089.jpg
 

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
That's basically the same as the 1738.
Oh well, I thought it was something different.
This other component, even though it works with AC loads, it would really simplify things.
According to it's datasheet it is a SSR with an optical input.
KSD215AC3, also haven't been able to find it anywhere.
Would you share your impression about it please.
 

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sghioto

Joined Dec 31, 2017
5,088
You are on the right track with the 1738 but I still highly recommend using a micro. You want the simplest solution and with limited electronics experience I see it as the best way to go.
 

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
Optical input means the output is isolated from the input by a infrared LED which activates the output when 5 to 12 volts DC is applied. Does not receive infrared signals to activate.
Hah, another hope crashed...
The LED on the upper right corner gave me hope.
Is there an SSR that will do the job in getting a lR signal and switch in one package?
Am I wishing too much!!!
Thanks for your clarification.
 

Thread Starter

jriofrio

Joined Dec 8, 2014
93
You are on the right track with the 1738 but I still highly recommend using a micro. You want the simplest solution and with limited electronics experience I see it as the best way to go.
I started to think that I might have to....
I saw an design using the 555 timer with a CD 4017. Do you think will be possible to use just the 555 to accomplish the on and off switching? I do have some 555 .
I always thought that a simple switch will be easy enough to accomplish without the use of mcu's.
 
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