Open circuit meter leads or a blown current range fuse in the meter would explain the LED not lighting but I don't see how it can stop the magnet ball thing from rotating. (This is why I suspected that the TS had connected the meter incorrectly thus shorting out the output.) It has occured to me that if the drive coil and the generator coil were placed close together (Possibly both on the same laminated feromagnetic core.) to form a crude transformer the power transfer would be more efficient than via the spinning magnet ball thing.

Les.

I guess the problem was caused due to the weak contact between a lead and multi meter connector ( pin)

 

Whats the diagram for the circuit board?

And no - you didn't offend me, I got tired of asking questions that were unanswered. OK, you showed me a vacation spot. That spot didn't correlate with what you said about being in Ruanda. When questions are asked and non-answers are given, we, that is "I, me personally" suspect that maybe we're not being dealt with on a completely honest level. Rather than continue to ask I just accept that I'm not going to get the answer I need.

I see you do know how to make and post schematics. However, the board is - at this point - a complete mystery. Exactly what is on the board? Components? Values? If there's an IC or two (or more) what do they do? Not getting satisfying answers leads us (me) to become suspicious.

So no, you didn't offend me. No more than when someone asks a question and doesn't get an answer - or worse, gets a non-answer. What's the difference between no answer and a "NON" answer? A "NON" answer is an answer that answers nothing. If I were to ask "What time is it there?" and you reply "Yes, the clock is displaying the time satisfactorily." THAT is a non-answer. Not what was asked. So showing me vacation resorts does not answer "Where was the video shot from?"

If you ask "Where do you live" and I said "Salt Lake City, Utah" THAT is an answer. If I say I live in the ninth house from the corner of my street - that doesn't answer the question.

No, I'm not angry. I don't get angry or sweat the small stuff. I also don't sit and bang my head against a stone wall because it feels so good when the pain stops.

1.Regarding the circuit you send me :
Once the button is pressed, the left hand side circuit becomes a common emmiter scheme. The 660ohm resistor is used to polarize the base, to limit the maximum current which passes through the base. The problem is that there is no resistor which will limit the current from the collector side. I expect that a short circuit will take place while pushing the button (the internal resistance of the primary side of the transformer is neglijabile). If the button is not pressed, there will be no current flow since there is no ground connected to the circuit.
On the other hand the transformer in DC will not produce anything in the secondary side. My view is that the transformer is useless and the right side is completely dead.
2. About the circuit and details you asked all the details are in my response to Hex Reader ( the latest )
Thx ST

 

As for amp measurements killing the circuit function, is it possible the fuse on the meter is blown?

It's a pretty common problem because it's so easy to make the connections incorrectly for current measurement, and it only takes a split second to blow the fuse if you get it wrong.

A blown fuse would explain why it kills the circuit completely. So, we should rule out that possibility before going any farther. Are you able to measure current through other circuits with the same meter? If you haven't already tried it, you could measure current through that 12V heater you used in another test, just to confirm that your meter's current measurement functions are working and that the fuse isn't blown.

The other thing you could do is put a small resistor, anywhere from 1-100ohm, in place of the meter and then measure voltage across it to calculate current. Lower resistance will impact circuit function less, but mean smaller voltages that might be too small to measure. Higher resistance means easier voltage measurements, but greater impact on circuit behavior.

Yes, once the mistery with the multi meter set on current is solved I should be able to measure the current tomorrow.

 

I'm with Tony on this one. The most important question we need answered in order to help with any electronics issue is:

"Can we see your *complete* schematic?"

We need to know what's in the mystery box. We need to know what components are on that PCB and how they're connected together. Otherwise, we can't understand what your circuit is supposed to be doing, much less help you optimize it.

I'm with Tony on this one. The most important question we need answered in order to help with any electronics issue is:
you will find the answer of this question in my latest reply to Hex reader. I start with the motor consumption.
"Can we see your *complete* schematic?"

We need to know what's in the mystery box. We need to know what components are on that PCB and how they're connected together. Otherwise, we can't understand what your circuit is supposed to be doing, much less help you optimize it.

Is in the last reply to Hex reader. There is no mistery .

 

Thx to all so far for the advices !
1. I managed to found 10 mm diameter metal cases ( ex screw pot neodymium magnets) - this should help me to lose some weight - increasing speed and will alow me to get closer with the coil 2. to the sphere. All I have to do is to modify them.
2. I am still looking to hack a small value capacitor for the Ac to Dc rectifier.
3. I will try to keep as short as possible s the dimension of the wire.

ST

 

a small circuit board with a black blob on it.

Mystery solved.

 

Mystery solved.

Tony, I am using a circuit buyed on the market , I didn.t make it (refering to the voltage variator) it can be found in solar toys. This is the anlayze which I can provide (the manufacter of the toy is not ofering informations about it ) . You quote only the phrase black bob , you should quote al my answer......"There are a total of four electrical components. A small solar panel ( VIMUN SC-3012-2A, 29.44mm×11.6mm×1.1mm, 4 cells. The following specifications were listed, 2.0 Vos, 9.0 UAsc, 1.5 Vop, at 200Lux), a 470 uF 10 V electrolytic capacitor, a coil iron less with thin copper wire and a small circuit board with a black blob on it.

Under this blob is the integrated circuit chip. It provides the correctly timed pulses to the coil and magnet combination. The integrated circuit is more or less just a low frequency oscillator which runs at approximately1 Hz most likely driving an open drain NMOS switch ( output on pin 3 ) which periodically connects the coil to the - terminal. The circuit pulses the 18 mH coil causing the neodymium spheremagnet spinning."
thx st

 

Stand by. I'm working on drawing a schematic from everything you've presented us so far. Maybe someone can make sense out of it.

 

OK, after much deciphering I think I've come up with your circuit. After looking at it this way I think your magnetic ball - cute little trick it is - acts poorly as an inductive coupling. From here I'll let others pick it apart - or improve on its design. But I think the verdict is - this is NOT an OU device. Don't know any practical uses though.

BTW: This is what we've been asking for all along. Nice of someone here to break it all down into its components for you. "(

 

Thanks Tonyr1024

You have provided more and better information in one post than the OP has managed after many you-tube videos, dozens of links, multiple forums (gaining bans on some) with hundreds of posts.

I suspect that maybe the OP means well, but manages to irritate and frustrate unintentionally. His/her attitude certainly seems to have improved lately. (hopefully mine has too - ....working on it...)

 

Thx Tony !
It will be a nice office toy!

OK, after much deciphering I think I've come up with your circuit. After looking at it this way I think your magnetic ball - cute little trick it is - acts poorly as an inductive coupling. From here I'll let others pick it apart - or improve on its design. But I think the verdict is - this is NOT an OU device. Don't know any practical uses though.

BTW: This is what we've been asking for all along. Nice of someone here to break it all down into its components for you. "(

View attachment 164406

thx tony ! instead mistery chip can I say made in china chip ?
Ps : it is just a toy nothing else

 

@hexreader Thanks.
@sciencetoolbar You're welcome.

 

I think this is the chip http://m.1688.com/offer/546194035205.html

 

.... and there seems to be a whole lot of info about HT111A1 board on this site....

https://ez.analog.com/university-program/b/blogs/posts/solar-powered-motion-toy-tear-down

 

.... and there seems to be a whole lot of info about HT111A1 board on this site....

https://ez.analog.com/university-program/b/blogs/posts/solar-powered-motion-toy-tear-down

Ok..... what kind of chip it is ?

 

I think this is the chip

See how much you gain by posting a schematic diagram?

 

what kind of chip it is ?

No one can be sure of what's under the blob. But from what I briefly read from the description posted by @hexreader it's some sort of timer chip. Could be associated with a 555 or could be some other time based chip.

 

Does adding a LED to someone else's idea then make the idea your's??? This seems to be a way in the end of doing this. Take an existing toy and figure out what is in it and how it works, then add the led and then put it up for sale as your own. Substitute the word car or TV or what ever for toy. It still is someone else's property being stolen.

 

One more thing I can think of as a suggestion - get rid of the bridge and capacitor. Just power the LED directly from the coil. It should light brighter. Hopefully not so bright that it burns out. Add a resistor to the circuit to limit the current going to the LED. All those diodes just drop even more voltage, and you gain nothing by using the capacitor, not as far as light production is concerned.

 

@shortbus: When you use a chip - be it a gate or a micro - aren't you using someone else's technology? How many things have you scrapped out of something else and turned it into something useful? ME? In the garage I have a chassis with the control board from a microwave oven mounted in it. The intended application for that project is to add some electrical outlets and use the timer feature for running something on a time based application. Most in particular, my soldering iron; which I seem to turn on, make a joint or two and then let it burn for hours on end. Having the timer means I can turn the iron on for 10 minutes. If I've forgotten to turn it off - it still shuts off when power is interrupted. Is this now the property of GE?