For someone who doesn't give two cents you sure complain a lot. I plan to continue posting as I see fit regardless of your feelings about it. If you want to change that, I have told you how.

You "dont "tell me anything...just remember that.

 

You "dont "tell me anything...just remember that.

I'll tell you that throwing a tantrum is not helping you. I've told you what to do if you feel you are in the right and want to solve it. You may not like the data I bring to the table but that's not my problem.

 

I'll tell you that throwing a tantrum is not helping you. I've told you what to do if you feel you are in the right and want to solve it. You may not like the data I bring to the table but that's not my problem.

Stay on topic or start a new thread. It's really quite simple, even for you.

 

Stay on topic or start a new thread. It's really quite simple, even for you.

Unless a moderator steps in, I'll do what I want , including feeding the trolls.

 

Unless a moderator steps in, I'll do what I want , including feeding the trolls.

Seems to be your specialty...

 

What a load of rubbish, absolutely nothing wrong with CHEAP-O multimeters..do you really think higher priced units dont fail?
I just recieved a new 200$ Sanwa, died after 1 month...dud nothing more than use it for continuity testing..
This narrow minded way of thinking shows utter lack of prowess or reasoning. Most people dont require an expensive multimeter nor should they. To call someones equipment a tou shows lack of respect and intelligence. I know many people in poorer countries that have no choice but to use these "toys" for their bread and butter and do quite well.
UNI-T has released quite a few new inexpensive multimeters as of late, UT89XD is one of them...excellent build quality and a very nice piece of kit.

Here I show a fairly lengthy switch cycle test of a few cheap meters compared with a Fluke 17B+. The vast majority of UNI-T branded meters I have looked at can't survive even the most basic of transients. I have a UT210E that it's switch started to go intermittent after a year of moderate use. It may be interesting to see some of their meters running through this same test.

You may not like that I use data rather than just words because you are perhaps trying to peddle some of these cheap meters? I have collected a fair bit of data that shows just how bad some of these cheap meters are. A bit odd really when you look at how well the $50 Fluke 101 has done with all of the tests I have ran on it.

 

As someone that was actively involved in "derailing" the thread, I apologize to the OP - it was all without intention of dismissing the original question.

As for you, Mr Multimeter, I am confused. Your exchange with shteii01 a few pages ago was also not about the UT139. Perhaps take as a fact that threads can take unexpected turns?

 

People get so upset when they realize that Flukes are not the only option these days.
I have Flukes,Agilents,Keysights,Sanwa,Hiokis,Yokogawa,Kyoritsu,Bryman,Gossen,Beckman,UEI,Richmeters,Anengs,Mustool,HF, UNI-T,Wavetek,Proteks,AllSun,and a 100 others....they all serve a purpose and we use them all on the job.

I've looked at more than 50. Fluke, no matter where made, have been some of the most robust meters I have looked at. Same for Brymen. I only tested on HIOKI and it was pretty impressive. I use one of their higher end units for work. I only looked at the Gossen Ultra. It has far too many problems.

 

As someone that was actively involved in "derailing" the thread, I apologize to the OP - it was all without intention of dismissing the original question.

As for you, Mr Multimeter, I am confused. Your exchange with shteii01 a few pages ago was also not about the UT139. Perhaps take as a fact that threads can take unexpected turns?

rsjsouza No worry, threads can easily go astray, I am also guilty at times. It's just the lack of direction by some on a continuing basis that is troublesome. I appreciate your candor and sincerity.

 

I have ADD so don't ask me to stay on track... Why is input protection the only determination whether a multimeter is any good?

This post started out with a specific problem which was going nowhere so it found a life of it's own... I think the UT meters are ok but joe's point is that they're not as hardy as the hardiest meters. If you need the protection go with Brymen or Fluke... if you don't go with a myriad other cheaper meters that do the same for $20. I like the cheaper options as I don't have need for high voltage or transient testing. And as pointed out the old meters by Fluke and other were not that great with little or no protection for a lot more money back in the day. We should count ourselves lucky. $20 meter is almost too cheap to even fix in some cases. $200 items often do not see a technician because it's not worth the time.

For me.. I need: range, resolution and response. My current readings are in the mA and voltage reading is 24VDC and under... usually 5V and 3.3V.... soon to go to 1.8V. I'm an amateur electrician in my garage but never needed a meter for that. I solved my brownout issue by running 240VAC @ 50A on 25 ft run using 6GA buried in IMC then running a subpanel with breakers for all my circuits. Just need to follow code and do some minor math... no meter needed.

 

I have ADD so don't ask me to stay on track... Why is input protection the only determination whether a multimeter is any good?

It is not (or shouldn't be) and I agree with your points - each meter has specific traits applicable to certain uses. When I got the UT61E, I received some advice to populate the missing MOVs and follow Joe's suggestions to improve its robustness to excessive voltage and transients on its input. For that I have other meters, thus I leave this one as the go-to small high resolution meter - after all, no modifications are free from having trade offs, which in this case would be bandwidth and perhaps input capacitance.

 

I have ADD so don't ask me to stay on track... Why is input protection the only determination whether a multimeter is any good?

I doubt many people would suggest it is. I run the meters over temperature, subject them to RF fields, cycle their rotary switch, subject them to harsh chemicals, drop them and now am running vibration tests on them. I also check their basic features an will often find problems with them. Often I will compare them against other meters. That's the nature of doing a review. Of course, if you just want to feel good about your purchases, there are plenty of 5 star reviewers out there.

One of the benefits of testing them the way is for the most part it removes any bias I have. The test fixtures really don't care what is attached to them.

I have never enabled ads, never asked for donations and fund the tests out of my own pocket. I am also not trying to sell anything nor do I offer recommendations on what people should buy. The data is all free so viewers can get a better idea about how particular brands and products hold up.

 

Joe I appreciate your reviews along with Dave and others at eevblog. Just like all the other equipment we need. Like soldering irons. Comparing a $1000 soldering station to a $50 one should be obvious. But being a self funded hobbyist my $50 units perform just fine. Not trying to feel good but trying to get kitted out without breaking the bank is a worthy endeavor. Same with o’scopes and other tools available out there. I do good work with less than great tools. Not concerned about your rating. Doesn’t mean they’re not useful. It also doesn’t mean I’m putting your reviews down. I find it useful to know their limits as well.

 

MOD: Please stay on the TS's opening Topic, else the Thread will be Closed.

 

I know these aren't considered to be the greatest meters around, but its been a workhorse for a couple years at least. Now, the mA/uA setting is giving really low, erroneous readings. I have to use the Amp jack and setting to read proper milli values. For example, a 300mA reading comes up correct with the Amp jack, but using mA/uA it's some ridiculous number around 2-3mA. Anybody have any ideas why? Is it possible a near low battery condition could do this even if the low battery indicator doesn't show? I need to pick up some new AA's.
Thanks

Did you ever figure out what was causing the errors in mA/uA ?

 

I know these aren't considered to be the greatest meters around, but its been a workhorse for a couple years at least. Now, the mA/uA setting is giving really low, erroneous readings. I have to use the Amp jack and setting to read proper milli values. For example, a 300mA reading comes up correct with the Amp jack, but using mA/uA it's some ridiculous number around 2-3mA. Anybody have any ideas why? Is it possible a near low battery condition could do this even if the low battery indicator doesn't show? I need to pick up some new AA's.
Thanks

Just change the mA range fuse. I think I was getting 2 mA reading when mine was blown.

 

The Brymen got a good review... they verified the CAT rating:
https://testmeterpro.com/best-multimeters/

With a Fluke you get waterproof, shockproof and gasproof and lifetime warranty. So go for the 87V.

I discovered my HP 428A clipon dc milliammeter stopped working. I tracked it down to an open probe. A new probe is expensive. So I am thinking of buying one of those UNI-T clipon units that measures direct current. But it's not as sensitive as the HP. Is there a reasonably priced unit that can do this? Yes I can buy another 428A or B but they are tube type boat anchors and I would like something more modern.

 

That’s too bad. That looks like a useful and nice tool. I like how small the pickup coil is. Is there any chance at fixing it?

https://www.prc68.com/I/HP428.html

 

That’s too bad. That looks like a useful and nice tool. I like how small the pickup coil is. Is there any chance at fixing it?

https://www.prc68.com/I/HP428.html

The problem is that it seems to be epoxied in place. It's not too small but is firmly in place. For a reason; the pole pieces must mate precisely or there will be lost flux and reading errors. There are two main windings I think, or perhaps four that are interconnected. Effectively it's two magnetic circuits coupled. You can download the manual and learn more. I would be very happy to get this thing working.

There is a signal that biases the core and the unknown current passes through and unbalances it. So the feedback loop corrects for this and the error signal is read on the meter. The lowest range is 3 mA FS and the highest I think 300 mA or maybe 1 A. There is a zero adjustment to account for residual magnetism; there is a 60 Hz demagnetizing setup.

 

I would like a current clamp but I’m looking for something that size. I might get an old unit just for the clamp.