So go for the 87V.

Too funny.

 

Did you try to clean the PCB around the mA/µA input? I wonder if something is at play there. I would also clean the fuse holder and the fuse itself to see if some bad contact is influencing your measurements.

The UT139C is a reasonably well built meter - well above the dirt cheap alternatives (Aneng, Bside, Richmeters, etc.) and well worth the 15 minutes to disassemble and clean it (if that is the actual problem).

As shteii01 mentioned, if you are willing to get a higher priced meter I would certainly consider Brymen - their build quality is top notch and they have a great balance of features, price and quality. Depending on where you live, there are OEMs that sell Brymen rebrands (Greenlee in the USA, for example) - that or you buy direct from an European distributor.

The BM857/859 and BM867/869 are their higher count meters (50000) and the latter two are rated CAT IV 1kV. I have a BM857 and it is a war tank.

Did you try to clean the PCB around the mA/µA input? I wonder if something is at play there. I would also clean the fuse holder and the fuse itself to see if some bad contact is influencing your measurements.

I'm going to give it a shot. Definitely not just going to toss it. But, I'm also going to take into consideration everybody's suggestions and get something else soon. Sucks having just one meter around

 

Aneng are also toys. They are cheap so they make for very nice toys.

If you want cheap, you want:
- Chinese Flukes
- Bryman
- 100 series Flukes
- Amprobe sells rebranded stuff like Uni-T and Bryman

What a load of rubbish, absolutely nothing wrong with CHEAP-O multimeters..do you really think higher priced units dont fail?
I just recieved a new 200$ Sanwa, died after 1 month...dud nothing more than use it for continuity testing..
This narrow minded way of thinking shows utter lack of prowess or reasoning. Most people dont require an expensive multimeter nor should they. To call someones equipment a tou shows lack of respect and intelligence. I know many people in poorer countries that have no choice but to use these "toys" for their bread and butter and do quite well.
UNI-T has released quite a few new inexpensive multimeters as of late, UT89XD is one of them...excellent build quality and a very nice piece of kit.

 

Look if you need high voltage, needs to be calibrated and certified Fluke. I wouldn’t even mess with the Chinese version. Get the real McCoy

Real McCoy Flukes will "all" soon be Made in China, they've sold out and are on that slippery slope..

 

Personally I love my $13 Thisinde... and as I've said before I will get another...


I can't even get test leads at that price around here...

 

Go ahead and change the batteries and see if that solves the problem. My best guess is that they selection dial switch has worn contacts. A drop f squirt of contact cleaner might restore good operation.

 

What a load of rubbish, absolutely nothing wrong with CHEAP-O multimeters..do you really think higher priced units dont fail?
I just recieved a new 200$ Sanwa, died after 1 month...dud nothing more than use it for continuity testing..
This narrow minded way of thinking shows utter lack of prowess or reasoning. Most people dont require an expensive multimeter nor should they. To call someones equipment a tou shows lack of respect and intelligence. I know many people in poorer countries that have no choice but to use these "toys" for their bread and butter and do quite well.
UNI-T has released quite a few new inexpensive multimeters as of late, UT89XD is one of them...excellent build quality and a very nice piece of kit.

Part of my job is to wire 3 phase 460 vac motors. There is no way that I will use uni-t or any other toy brand for working with those voltages. I don’t care what fake cat rating they print on the case.

For my job I have fluke and Agilent dmms.

 

Part of my job is to wire 3 phase 460 vac motors. There is no way that I will use uni-t or any other toy brand for working with those voltages. I don’t care what fake cat rating they print on the case.

For my job I have fluke and Agilent dmms.

Careful with those Fake Flukes...those Yellow toy impersonators are everywhere..
People get so upset when they realize that Flukes are not the only option these days.
I have Flukes,Agilents,Keysights,Sanwa,Hiokis,Yokogawa,Kyoritsu,Bryman,Gossen,Beckman,UEI,Richmeters,Anengs,Mustool,HF, UNI-T,Wavetek,Proteks,AllSun,and a 100 others....they all serve a purpose and we use them all on the job.

Part of my job is to wire 3 phase 460 vac motors. There is no way that I will use uni-t or any other toy brand for working with those voltages. I don’t care what fake cat rating they print on the case.

For my job I have fluke and Agilent dmms.

 

I used Greenlee for several years on 480. Because the venders comped them to me. They seem to hold up as well as anything else. Decades ago.

 

Careful with those Fake Flukes...those Yellow toy impersonators are everywhere..
People get so upset when they realize that Flukes are not the only option these days.
I have Flukes,Agilents,Keysights,Sanwa,Hiokis,Yokogawa,Kyoritsu,Bryman,Gossen,Beckman,UEI,Richmeters,Anengs,Mustool,HF, UNI-T,Wavetek,Proteks,AllSun,and a 100 others....they all serve a purpose and we use them all on the job.

lol
My Fluke is not yellow. My Fluke has DoD calibration sticker on it. When my fluke was made Fluke did not know what yellow color was.

 

Can’t we just get along. The cheap meters are attainable for many hobbyists and they are pretty good. I was weaned on Fluke have one and respect them like Tektronix and HP. If I was in a shop that’s what I would expect. Just like I wouldn’t buy Starrett, Mitsutoyo, Snap On and Mac unless I was making a living at it. There are many less expensive tools out there maybe not the same quality that will perform just as well for many hobbyists and even pros.

If you’re working on 480 you know what you have to be careful of. I do see some high voltage in my tube amps over 400V plate voltage. So far the Chinese meters are fine. There are better ways to check current than putting your meter in series.

I just don’t understand how the Chinese can sell me something that should be at least $60-80 for $13. I hate the fake CAT ratings.

 

Can’t we just get along. The cheap meters are attainable for many hobbyists and they are pretty good. I was weaned on Fluke have one and respect them like Tektronix and HP. If I was in a shop that’s what I would expect. Just like I wouldn’t buy Starrett, Mitsutoyo, Snap On and Mac unless I was making a living at it. There are many less expensive tools out there maybe not the same quality that will perform just as well for many hobbyists and even pros.

If you’re working on 480 you know what you have to be careful of. I do see some high voltage in my tube amps over 400V plate voltage. So far the Chinese meters are fine. There are better ways to check current than putting your meter in series.

I just don’t understand how the Chinese can sell me something that should be at least $60-80 for $13. I hate the fake CAT ratings.

I support your sentiment.

Just for general educational purposes...
I had arc flash training at work. One key point that was made (and was on the test) is that anything below 50V a human will survive. 50V and over, will cause problems, anything from your heart loosing rhythm to loss of consciousness, to burn, to death.

If I recall correctly, OP wanted something for his low voltage hobby stuff, with a possibility of needing something for more professional applications. Well. Going back to my arc flash training.
Low voltage hobby stuff is all below 50V. So. Toy dmm with fake cat ratings are fine. And that is what I said. I have three of those. I already mentioned my two Tacklife clamps and I have Harbor Freight Cen-Tech $3.99 one.
For anything 50V and above, you want a real dmm. To different people words: real dmm, mean different things. To me they mean: Fluke, Bryman, Keysight, etc. Toys need not apply.

 

I support your sentiment.

Just for general educational purposes...
I had arc flash training at work. One key point that was made (and was on the test) is that anything below 50V a human will survive. 50V and over, will cause problems, anything from your heart loosing rhythm to loss of consciousness, to burn, to death.

If I recall correctly, OP wanted something for his low voltage hobby stuff, with a possibility of needing something for more professional applications. Well. Going back to my arc flash training.
Low voltage hobby stuff is all below 50V. So. Toy dmm with fake cat ratings are fine. And that is what I said. I have three of those. I already mentioned my two Tacklife clamps and I have Harbor Freight Cen-Tech $3.99 one.
For anything 50V and above, you want a real dmm. To different people words: real dmm, mean different things. To me they mean: Fluke, Bryman, Keysight, etc. Toys need not apply.

It's this "toy" reference that really irks me..disrespect a meter based on due diligence is one thing, disrespect a user using a cheap meter and due diligence shall be swift.
Stop yammering about the F word...doesn't mean much anymore, there's plenty of inexpensive dmms today that are more than capable of measuring above 50V safely andvthey don't all fudge rhe Cat ratings either. You've been swallowing too many yellow (oops, meant black) pills ...try the cheaper red ones..just as good and your wallet will thank you.

 

It's this "toy" reference that really irks me..disrespect a meter based on due diligence is one thing, disrespect a user using a cheap meter and due diligence shall be swift.
Stop yammering about the F word...doesn't mean much anymore, there's plenty of inexpensive dmms today that are more than capable of measuring above 50V safely andvthey don't all fudge rhe Cat ratings either. You've been swallowing too many yellow (oops, meant black) pills ...try the cheaper red ones..just as good and your wallet will thank you.

But I have cheap meters. I told you so. I use them too. A couple of weeks ago I had to build a panel. I build it, put all the components on it, labeled everything, wired everything I could (main disconnect, fuses for HV, fuses LV, 30 or 40 PLC I/O to terminal strip, DC power supply, VFD HV and LV). Then I used one of my toys to check continuity. Made sure my 24V rail was not shorted, the jumpers connected what they should, etc. The meter worked fine. This was done in professional setting. Yes, I used a toy and it worked fine, and I was safe and everyone around me was safe. If I powered that panel and I had to troubleshoot 24V part of it, I would have used that toy meter and felt perfectly safe. But make no mistake. IT IS A TOY.

The reason it irks you is that what I am trying to convey has more than a grain of truth in it. It is like that saying about a joke or about stereotypes. The reason good joke works is that under the humor there is a grain of truth in it. The reason stereotypes exist is because there are actually real people who are the stereotype.

So. Stop being annoyed with me. You are right. I am not wrong.

 

Don’t even call the free Harbor Freight one a multimeter or put it in the same category as the others. I have about 5 of those and they’re good for the 9V battery. If you paid anything for one it’s too much.

 

Don’t even call the free Harbor Freight one a multimeter or put it in the same category as the others. I have about 5 of those and they’re good for the 9V battery. If you paid anything for one it’s too much.
View attachment 176067

Got one too.

 

This reminds me of the Pic vs AVR flame wars of the past. This is just as meaningful.

 

This reminds me of the Pic vs AVR flame wars of the past. This is just as meaningful.

The error that you are making is that people not familiar with industry will buy toy dmm, trust its fake CAT rating and then get hurt when they use it.

 

I hope people in the industry have more sense and know how.

 

Got one

Got one too.

The error that you are making is that people not familiar with industry will buy toy dmm, trust its fake CAT rating and then get hurt when they use it.

Most lay people wont use a dmm for anything more than battery test or a quick AC voltage test which any cheap dmm can perform. Most laypeople have no udea what a CAT rating is nor coukd they care less. Any professional industry service would obviously be done by a tech with the appropriate skillset and should know if his/her equipment is adequate.
I know a layman (former neighbour) who lost his index finger by testing a mains in an office building using a fluke that belonged to the companies boiler engineer.
He thought he'd save the guy a trip on the weekend..but there is no excuse for lack of knowledge and experience and using the F brand doesnt mean someone wont get seriously hurt or killed.
Your theory is flawed and shows a shallow mindset. My 30$ UNI-T performed as well as my 300$ Fluke on my last job but then again I know what I'm doing.
Now where's my Yokogawa need to test that 9V battery..