None of that makes much sense electrically, lets start over. Connect the black to GROUND and using the ohmmeter connect the red lead to the emitter of Q10 with all parts reconnected in the circuit.

 

None of that makes much sense electrically, lets start over. Connect the black to GROUND and using the ohmmeter connect the red lead to the emitter of Q10 with all parts reconnected in the circuit.

Ok i'm ready

 

Ok i'm ready

start from 7 and keep going up no stop, multimeter is on 20K

 

start from 7 and keep going up no stop

What does that mean?

 

What does that mean?

I did what you suggested and what i see is 7,...and something and it going up to 8 and up, the multimeter is setting to 20k, what i do wrong? black is on the J3 connector

 

What meter are you using? Set the ohmmeter to the lowest setting which is probably 200 ohms.

 

What meter are you using? Set the ohmmeter to the lowest setting which is probably 200 ohms.

Not a good one MASTECH, the setting I have is 200m, and it give me 00.9
The multimeter is this: https://www.wemena.com/product/mast...fe-diode-continuity-buzzer-and-data-hold/8601

 

That's practically a dead short. What model Mastech meter?

 

That's practically a dead short. What model Mastech meter?

https://www.wemena.com/product/mast...fe-diode-continuity-buzzer-and-data-hold/8601

 

https://www.wemena.com/product/mast...fe-diode-continuity-buzzer-and-data-hold/8601

From out of the board they seem to be good, I'm confuse! I got another one outside the board, when I tested they were equal! Are both faulty?

 

the setting I have is 200m, and it give me 00.9

I don't know if you are using the meter correctly, 200m is the low side of the voltage scale you should be on the 200 setting in OHMS for the test in post #101.

 

I don't know if you are using the meter correctly, 200m is the low side of the voltage scale you should be on the 200 setting in OHMS for the test in post #101.
View attachment 269007

Please forgive mi ignorance....I have nothing, no reading if I'm setting it as you said

 

OK that's good. Now read from ground to the collector of Q10.

 

OK that's good. Now read from ground to the collector of Q10.

same, no reading

 

Is Q10 still connected in the circuit and mounted to the heatsink?

 

Is Q10 still connected in the circuit and mounted to the heatsink?

is still connected but not to the heatsink, the board is out on my desk

 

Then the problem might be when Q10 is mounted to the heatsink. There are insulators that isolate the metal tab of the transistors (Q10 and Q9) from the aluminum heatsink that must be installed correctly or you will have a short to ground which would explain why R2 explodes.

 

Then the problem might be when Q10 is mounted to the heatsink. There are insulators that isolate the metal tab of the transistors (Q10 and Q9) from the aluminum heatsink that must be installed correctly or you will have a short to ground which would explain why R2 explodes.

I have the protection in place, I have been very careful with this, I even put all screw to make sure it stay in place

 

Have you re-installed the board back in the amp? Need to get measurements with everything connected.

 

Have you re-installed the board back in the amp?

no, if I do I will have to get it off because of the thing keep blowing is impractical to replace it wile on the amp, I have to find the cause before installing it back