I can't check at the moment, I am working now.

 

I can't check at the moment, I am working now.

No worries, when you can

 

From the photo I see the red wire marked as J15 on the pcb which corresponds to the bass amp output for the large speaker.
The white wire is marked ALT1 which should connect to the small speaker. Most likely one side of each speaker is connected to ground through those 2 black wires in the bundle.

 

Did you fix yours?

Not yet. i am waiting for parts. I sent you old picture, i took it before removed elements from board.

From the photo I see the red wire marked as J15 on the pcb which corresponds to the bass amp output for the large speaker.
The white wire is marked ALT1 which should connect to the small speaker. Most likely one side of each speaker is connected to ground through those 2 black wires in the bundle.

it's correct!

 

Not yet. i am waiting for parts. I sent you old picture, i took it before removed elements from board.



it's correct!

When I get the amp was connect as I did explain to you. I don't know who connect it like this! It has been repair before..I don't understand where to connect the negative tho? what do you mean by:connected to ground through those 2 black wires in the bundle. which wires on which bande? Please be more precise! Ok i do understand now! I don't have this 2 black wires that I seen on the picture! I don't have those cable that's why I didn't get it when you talked about black wires! Weird.... I will try to connect it as it should and I will let you know! It does make sense now! Will do it after tomorrow as I don't have it with me now

I have a question about the relay, as you have the same amp maybe you could help clarify this! The guy who give it to me said that on start he used to hear the relay clicking! Now it start and work, but he arguing about not hearing the click anymore! Is yours clicking after switch it on? I hear it clicking when I switch off, not on, could you confirm it? Thank you!

 

postscript: Thanks for pictures!!!

you welcome!

 

I don't know who connect it like this! It has been repair before.

The only reason I can see both speakers connected together is if the bass amp is defective. Maybe they couldn't fix it so just connected both speakers to the TDA amp. Just a guess.

 

The only reason I can see both speakers connected together is if the bass amp is defective. Maybe they couldn't fix it so just connected both speakers to the TDA amp. Just a guess.

Look at specification. There is Crossover Electronic, so i think that one amp (for small speaker) can not play in full 40 Hz - 20 KHz

Jam 150 Plus Specification:

• Box Two-way bass reflex
• Frequency response 40 Hz - 20 KHz
• Sensitivity (1W-1m) 93 db
• SPL max 115 db
• Crossover Electronic –24 db/octave
• Woofer 8”
• Horn Compression tweeter
• System – Format 2-way Bi-amp
• Max Power out:
• LOW: 120W RMS, 240W peak,
• HIGH: 30W RMS, 60W peak
• Weight Kg 13
• Dimensions (WxDxH) 27x36x40cm
• Mixer inputs:
• MIC 1-2 : XLR - Jack 6,3 mm
• LINE IN 3-4 : Jack 6,3 mm
• LINE IN 5-6 RCA
• Mixer outputs:
• REC OUT RCA
• LINE OUT XLR
• Controls:
• MIC 1-2 : High, Mid, Low, Eff, Vol.
• LINE IN 3-4 : High, Mid, Low, Eff, Vol.
• LINE IN 5-6 : High, Low, Vol
• REC OUT : Vol.
• EFF RTN : Vol.
• MASTER : Vol.
• Effect:
• 1 Delay, 3 Reverbs ( by Alesis)
• Send & Return External Effect

 

There is Crossover Electronic,

I know that's why it's called a Bi-Amp. There is a discrete transistor power amp for the low frequencies driving the 8 inch bass speaker.

 

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The guy who give it to me said that on start he used to hear the relay clicking! Now it start and work, but he arguing about not hearing the click anymore! Is yours clicking after switch it on? I hear it clicking when I switch off, not on, could you confirm it?

I can not confirm it because I bought broken amp (it didn't work) and I have never used it. I will answer you when my jam 150 plus will be works. Regards

 

Thank you sghioto and Jakze!! I never saw one of this amp before! I thought that it was properly connected, i just reconnect as it was, even if I have been wandering why it has only the plus (+) symbol on that connection! Yes I assume the same, the guy who fix it before, in reality he hasn’t fixed anything, he just disconnected the thing and eliminate the cable… Anyway, now I’m wandering if it is connected to the high as sghioto suggested or to the Bass? I haven’t got it with me till tomorrow so I can’t check! But it will make more sense to me as the bass are very strong. Anyway how can be that is working with the bass positive and the high positive connected to one speaker, that's not possibile... Anyway I have to see it, I can’t figure out how they are connected! Where is the negative taken from? From the cabinet I only see withe and red coming out! I haven’t see any other cable, and i'm sure about this…Anyway I soon I got it back, I will update! You have been very helpful! Very very appreciate, thank you again
Ps: good luck Jakze hope you will able to fix it, when you do please let me know about the famous click

 

Where is the negative taken from? From the cabinet I only see white and red coming out! I haven’t see any other cable, and I'm sure about this

The diagram below shows how the two speakers should be connected. The black wires connect to the ground terminals shown in the photo.
You need to run a separate ground wire for each speaker.

 

Look at specification. There is Crossover Electronic, so i think that one amp (for small speaker) can not play in full 40 Hz - 20 KHz

Jam 150 Plus Specification:

• Box Two-way bass reflex
• Frequency response 40 Hz - 20 KHz
• Sensitivity (1W-1m) 93 db
• SPL max 115 db
• Crossover Electronic –24 db/octave
• Woofer 8”
• Horn Compression tweeter
• System – Format 2-way Bi-amp
• Max Power out:
• LOW: 120W RMS, 240W peak,
• HIGH: 30W RMS, 60W peak
• Weight Kg 13
• Dimensions (WxDxH) 27x36x40cm
• Mixer inputs:
• MIC 1-2 : XLR - Jack 6,3 mm
• LINE IN 3-4 : Jack 6,3 mm
• LINE IN 5-6 RCA
• Mixer outputs:
• REC OUT RCA
• LINE OUT XLR
• Controls:
• MIC 1-2 : High, Mid, Low, Eff, Vol.
• LINE IN 3-4 : High, Mid, Low, Eff, Vol.
• LINE IN 5-6 : High, Low, Vol
• REC OUT : Vol.
• EFF RTN : Vol.
• MASTER : Vol.
• Effect:
• 1 Delay, 3 Reverbs ( by Alesis)
• Send & Return External Effect

The diagram below shows how the two speakers should be connected. The black wires connect to the ground terminals shown in the photo.
You need to run a separate ground wire for each speaker.
View attachment 268562

Yes bro, thanks to you, I know now how it is connected! What I don't know is how they did connect it inside the one I got (can't remember)as I have no black cable on this thing! I have only red and white going to the speaker (inside the box) I wandering where the negative is taken from has It's not connected as it should be. As I said I will get the amp back today and let you know what I will find inside the amp box...Thank you anyway

 

I get it this evening, I dismounted it, and I found the horror!! The cables from J15 were both connected to the woofer and from there bridged to the tweeter, no negative so ever! i'm surprise that was "working".... I do finish to connect it properly now, but I can't test it, as the neighbours will complain! Let you know tomorrow Good night

 

i'm surprise that was "working"

It's working but not the right way.
It's known as a bridged amplifier a commonly used technique to quadruple the audio output power. Normally using two identical amps seen frequently in car stereo. Below is one example.

 

It's working but not the right way.
It's known as a bridged amplifier a commonly used technique to quadruple the audio output power. Normally using two identical amps seen frequently in car stereo. Below is one example.
View attachment 268633

Ok, but I don't think that this technique has been use in my case, for the reason you said on previous post! 1 amp wasn't working (at contrary of you I think of TDA because is the one I change and now everything work after reconnect the cable properly) and they sort the problem by disconnect the High which was make noise, only my assumption I can be wrong ! I have only this problem now with this guy! Even if I have tested it all mourning and it's perfectly working and he should be happy, ridiculously the owner wan't the click back!! He state that before it was clicking after few second after switch it on! Now it's not! If it is working properly mean the relay is working as well innit? But he insist that he wan't the click back other wise he refuse to pay me 30 pound (including parts) which is what I did ask him as it is a friend of my friend...What you guys think?

 

I think he should pay you the 30 pounds.
If it's truly working correctly there should be a delay of a few seconds before the relay activates. This is to allow the bass amp to stabilize and eliminate a pop noise in the big speaker. That same delay circuit also mutes the TDA amp for the same reason. Do you hear a click or pop in the speakers when first turned ON?

 

I think he should pay you the 30 pounds.
If it's truly working correctly there should be a delay of a few seconds before the relay activates. This is to allow the bass amp to stabilize and eliminate a pop noise in the big speaker. That same delay circuit also mutes the TDA amp for the same reason. Do you hear a click or pop in the speakers when first turned ON?

Yes bro, you are right! I did spoke with Schertler today and they confirm that it is clicking for the reason you said, but they also said that you can use as it is, you have only to start it with the master volume low! But I have to fix it properly, this is not satisfying to me. No I don't hear the click, I hear pop in on turn on! As it does work i guest that for some reason, the relay is stack close all the time, if so what should I check? the relay itself? Or something before the relay! what does give this few sec delay? I remember that I did misure the current flow and it was 4-5 which was good to activate the relay, I did check Q2 as well. Any suggestion will be welcome, thank you

 

what does give this few sec delay?

The delay time is provided by C8 and R7. When the power is first turned ON C8 is at zero volts. The voltage on C8 begins to increase as it charges through R7 and when it gets to appx 5 volts Q2 should turn ON and activate the relay.
From my calculations this should take appx 2 seconds.
If C8 is open and/or Q2 is shorted then the relay will activate immediately when powered ON.
When working correctly the voltage on the collector of Q2 will be 45 volts when first powered ON, then will quickly drop during that 2 second delay to only a few volts or even less.

 

The delay time is provided by C8 and R7. When the power is first turned ON C8 is at zero volts. The voltage on C8 begins to increase as it charges through R7 and when it gets to appx 5 volts Q2 should turn ON and activate the relay.
From my calculations this should take appx 2 seconds.
If C8 is open and/or Q2 is shorted then the relay will activate immediately when powered ON.
When working correctly the voltage on the collector of Q2 will be 45 volts when first powered ON, then will quickly drop during that 2 second delay to only a few volts or even less.

View attachment 268669

Thank you very much bro, you are a star!! this will be very helpful for my investigation! I will check those component and I will let you know how is going..I have checked some of those component before on the begin of this repair but obviously I 'm missing something here, I remember also that I have checked C8.Anyway with your clarification on how this thing work, I should be able to find the problem and hopefully solve it (hopefully) again, thank for your time, I will update soon Ciao