I refuse to call it español

ha ha ha... that's very argentinian from your part, my friend... cheers!

 

Now clean the flux off the board.

and learn about mountains and molehills:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Make_a_mountain_out_of_a_molehill

 

Now clean the flux off the board.

and learn about mountains and molehills:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Make_a_mountain_out_of_a_molehill

and while you're at it... also look up Divas and Drama Queens...

 

OK, I'm starting to don't understand any single message...

 

OK, I'm starting to don't understand any single message...

Nahhh... don't take us too seriously, we're just goofing around.

 

Sorry for not read through 85 posts on this silly thread
You said mouse symptoms same for other computers so means mouse defective! I say don't waste time to repair just replace it! And to think *I've* been called skinflint! Sheesh!

 

Aelph(0):

Then you missed a lot of stuff. The TS(Thread starter), a genuine newbie, got his first taste of soldering for the FIRST time AND the satisfaction of actually fixing something. You also missed a couple of sayings like "make mountains out of molehills".

Your not encouraging the TS to take up electronics as a hobby. We all have to learn somewhere. Why not a computer mouse? The TS actually took pictures of his work.

 

Your not encouraging the TS to take up electronics as a hobby. We all have to learn somewhere. Why not a computer mouse? The TS actually took pictures of his work.

Indeed, @Aleph(0)! --- Practice (in the sense of 'exercise') can be practical too!

 

Yeah, I'm gonna edit the main post so everyone knows it's solved. Jesus... I didn't know people hated so much mouses, lol, no one wants me to give it a try

By the way, the mouse is working just great, fanastic! I've just resurrected a $20 worth mouse.

 

Yeah, I'm gonna edit the main post so everyone knows it's solved. Jesus... I didn't know people hated so much mouses, lol, no one wants me to give it a try

Perhaps it's merely that folks don't want to see you discouraged by the challenges inherent to miniaturized components, etc... SMDs can be a bear without special equipment -- then too (at the outset) the problem was as likely to be 'on board' (i.e. a malfunctioning proprietary chip) as not --- For my part, I feel inexpensive devices are ideal 'practice subjects' for the low stakes 'learning curve navigation' provided thereby

Very best regards
HP

 

Some two years ago, I managed to repair several sets of loudspeakers for desktops, in a row.

Changing caps or noisy pots did for all but one, which got a bad IC, not available locally.

Satisfactory even if simple task.

 

One question. If it wasn't the USB cable... what would you guys have done?
Like it's not working and you're facing this IC:

Would you start checking connections, imagine they're all good. Then what?

 

99 percent of the time it is the cable with a broken connection where it gets the most bending (where it comes out of the mouse)

the other 1% is a flat battery

i do have admiration for all the trouble (time/cost) spent on repairing it

guilty of that one myself more times than i care to remember

 

One question. If it wasn't the USB cable... what would you guys have done?
Like it's not working and you're facing this IC:
Would you start checking connections, imagine they're all good. Then what?

Was I so inclined, the following would represent the extent of my troubleshooting efforts...

1) Evaluate the condition of any electrolytic capacitors.

2) Visually inspect the surface mount resistors for 'pitting' (a typical sign of over current failure).

3) Using a pick, small calibre hypodermic cannula, sewing needle or similar instrument - carefully inspect component to solder pad contact integrity (Not such a long-shot as it may sound inasmuch as the mouse is relatively new and, I can but suppose, 'ROHS compliant').

4) Failing all of the above, I'd connect the mouse to the system (the former disassembled as shown above) then manually flex/twist the board in an attempt to reproduce the symptoms -- Definite establishment of a linkage between mechanical stressing of the PCB and malfunction would justify close inspection for PCB cracks or otherwise damaged traces a well as minute 'revisitation' of step 3 (above)...

Best regards
HP

 

I don't know if it is ceramic. I've just bought it, lol, don't recommend me another one cause I bought this soldering station to use it in my next 5 years or so, or even more. This is my soldering iron:

That's essentially the same one I have, from here. I like it a lot, and one reason I chose it was because I can get inexpensive replacement tips. I was frustrated that I had a drawer full of dead irons - all dead only because a tip was unavailable or too expensive. The irony (a pun?) is that, with the modest temperature control of this unit, my tips last "forever" and I'm still on my first or second tip.

Did you figure out how/why the cable failed? Not that it matters, but could be a learning opportunity.

 

Yeah, I also think I made a great purchase by choosing this iron soldering, I feel it will last a few years. And yeah, it's exactly, exactly the same unit I have, but yours is grey instead of a hot rock & roll volcano red. I mean, lets be honest, mine is cooler, clearly designed only for rock stars. About the cable... I don't know what happened, the mouse was fine and I treat my devices as nice as i can. I really think the problem is at the end of the cable, where the green cable connects to the USB plug, inside the plastic block/brick shape.

...

 

I didn't know people hated so much mouses

Let's say most of us put them on par with toasters... nobody repairs a toaster anymore, you just throw it out and buy a new one. But I had forgotten that your intention at the beginning of this thread was not to repair the mouse, but to learn how to repair it... in that case, yes, there's plenty of stuff out there that most of us see as junk that may be an excellent opportunity to learn lots more.

 

Does the iron tip changeable and easy to change like this?

With that type, I find a smear of heatsink compound helps keep air off the bits you don't want to oxidise and seize.

Usually I use the white heatsink paste, but using too much can cake like fire brick and cause the same problem by a different means.

Plain silicon grease also works.

 

With that type, I find a smear of heatsink compound helps keep air off the bits you don't want to oxidise and seize.

Usually I use the white heatsink paste, but using too much can cake like fire brick and cause the same problem by a different means.

Plain silicon grease also works.

If you don't want to oxidise, when you finish the soldering then you have to clear up the iron tip, and putting on some tin around the surface when the iron tip still heating up, and then the tin will isolated the air to stop the iron tip oxidise.

And the spare iron tips should be pack by some kitchen papers and put into a plastic big and close the bag to isolated the air.

 

I think Ian was referring to the threads of the screw-on tip. These become rough over time.