(Solved) How can I fix my PC mouse?
- Thread starter rambomhtri
- Start date
I think you've got it. At least you have something you must pursue. It obviously won't work if there really is no continuity in that wire. Now the question is, where is the flaw? An artifact of testing is always a possibility you have to keep in mind. Check and recheck.
I'm doing this tomorrow, but one question: Can a broken green cable (D+ cable is open) produce this error of a loop of recognizing and not recognizing?
When my solder sucker arrives, I'm gonna replace the USB cable and see if it works. For now, there's not much more I can do, right?
When my solder sucker arrives, I'm gonna replace the USB cable and see if it works. For now, there's not much more I can do, right?
yes it can... the USB uses a differential signal, and if one of the cables is partially broken then some of the signal can be transmitted, but very unreliably.
Alright, I've tested the very same female USB on the PCI with the USB cable (of other mouse) I'm trying to replace, and all the cables worked nice, red, black, green and white. The same cables only gave 1ohm, instead of the 4ohm I'm getting in the original broken USB cable of the broken mouse.
Nevertheless, in this older mouse, there are 5 cables, instead of 4. There are 2 different black cables (one is thicker), both connected to the black "pin 4" (ground).
What should I do with the extra black one?
Join them, tin them, and solder them through the same hole?
Why there's an extra black?
Nevertheless, in this older mouse, there are 5 cables, instead of 4. There are 2 different black cables (one is thicker), both connected to the black "pin 4" (ground).
What should I do with the extra black one?
Join them, tin them, and solder them through the same hole?
Why there's an extra black?
KeepItSimpleStupid
- Joined Mar 4, 2014
- 5,088
Is one of the black cables a shield. Usually heat shrink is placed over the shield. it would be thicker. Clear heat shrink is what I use.
Shields are usually connected to ground on one side only. In the case the computer side. In other cases, like sensors, the signal originating side is better providing there is a ground nearby to connect to.
Note this cable: http://www.l-com.com/usb-usb-revision-20-compliant-bulk-cable-20-awg-power-conductors there is a twisted pair for data, two wires for power and a shield.
Shields are usually not de-braided, but the wires are brought through a puncture wound in the shield.
I've had USB wireless mouse issues with the Microsoft wireless blue. I like the mouse. The receiver/transmitter dies. It's a USB 1.1 mouse.
I wish the mouse had a separate power switch. I didn't find anything obvious. I've used the ebay replacement strategy, but the last time I added the following http://www.l-com.com/usb-usb-surge-protector-type-a-type-a-panel-mount-style-with-pigtail-cable-12 USB surge suppressor which was about 2x more expensive than the mouse.
There is no protection internally on the receiver, so external protection makes a lot of sense especially with a mouse that plugged in and out a lot on a laptop.
My recommendation is to replace with an ebay mouse and get a surge suppressor for USB especially if it's USB 1.1.
==
The ROHS solders have a high melting point. There are products that lower the melting point. The holes are generally plated thu and it's difficult to remove components. The commercial braids have flux on them. The braids and the solder sucker are first line defense. The sucker with the vacuum pump is much better. Once you remove the solder, it sometimes helps to add some back and then suck it out. That's not intuitive.
When soldering, heat the more massive item.
if you were soldering a simple resistor, the iron would push the lead to the side of the hole and heat the lead and pad separately. The solder would be applied to the lead on the opposite side of the tip. When actually soldering, do not apply solder to the tip. Heat the object and apply solder to the component lead.
You do want to tin the tip and clean it off with a wet towel or sponge. Don't file the tip. They are usually iron clad and filing removes the iron cladding.
Shields are usually connected to ground on one side only. In the case the computer side. In other cases, like sensors, the signal originating side is better providing there is a ground nearby to connect to.
Note this cable: http://www.l-com.com/usb-usb-revision-20-compliant-bulk-cable-20-awg-power-conductors there is a twisted pair for data, two wires for power and a shield.
Shields are usually not de-braided, but the wires are brought through a puncture wound in the shield.
I've had USB wireless mouse issues with the Microsoft wireless blue. I like the mouse. The receiver/transmitter dies. It's a USB 1.1 mouse.
I wish the mouse had a separate power switch. I didn't find anything obvious. I've used the ebay replacement strategy, but the last time I added the following http://www.l-com.com/usb-usb-surge-protector-type-a-type-a-panel-mount-style-with-pigtail-cable-12 USB surge suppressor which was about 2x more expensive than the mouse.
There is no protection internally on the receiver, so external protection makes a lot of sense especially with a mouse that plugged in and out a lot on a laptop.
My recommendation is to replace with an ebay mouse and get a surge suppressor for USB especially if it's USB 1.1.
==
The ROHS solders have a high melting point. There are products that lower the melting point. The holes are generally plated thu and it's difficult to remove components. The commercial braids have flux on them. The braids and the solder sucker are first line defense. The sucker with the vacuum pump is much better. Once you remove the solder, it sometimes helps to add some back and then suck it out. That's not intuitive.
When soldering, heat the more massive item.
if you were soldering a simple resistor, the iron would push the lead to the side of the hole and heat the lead and pad separately. The solder would be applied to the lead on the opposite side of the tip. When actually soldering, do not apply solder to the tip. Heat the object and apply solder to the component lead.
You do want to tin the tip and clean it off with a wet towel or sponge. Don't file the tip. They are usually iron clad and filing removes the iron cladding.
OK, but what do I do now with the extra one?
I only have 4 holes in the mouse I'm trying to repair. Ground, D+, D- and 5V. I don't have a shield hole. Nevertheless, notice both black cables were connected to the ground. Should I join both black cables and solder them to the ground hole?
I only have 4 holes in the mouse I'm trying to repair. Ground, D+, D- and 5V. I don't have a shield hole. Nevertheless, notice both black cables were connected to the ground. Should I join both black cables and solder them to the ground hole?
Fine. The final result is coming!!!!
Yeah!!!!
It's working again! It's finally working again!
Wow, I didn't expect this
Now you guys know that when a mouse suddenly stops working, and the PC's recognize it and don't recognize it in a loop, it's because the green cable, or white may be, is broken.
It's working again! It's finally working again!
Wow, I didn't expect this
Now you guys know that when a mouse suddenly stops working, and the PC's recognize it and don't recognize it in a loop, it's because the green cable, or white may be, is broken.
Mmmhhh... now you've made me feel BAD for trying to discourage you at the beginning of this threadYeah!!!!
It's working again! It's finally working again!
Wow, I didn't expect this
Now you guys know that when a mouse suddenly stops working, and the PC's recognize it and don't recognize it in a loop, it's because the green cable, or white may be, is broken.
But I'm really glad you made things work out
Now it's not just you who has learned something new
Hahaha, yeah. I'm gonna share here some pictures of the final results. This is really my very, very first work. I've never used an iron soldering before, I've never soldered before, lol.
Well... my advice to you now is don't stop here... keep going and start by learning the basic stuff. The sky's the limit, and we're here to help you reach it. Good luck!
The pictures:
What do you think about the tip?
Is it alright?
What about the 4 soldered cables?
They are the 4 joints above:
R4
33R
What do you think about the tip?
Is it alright?
What about the 4 soldered cables?
They are the 4 joints above:
R4
33R
Can you post a pic of the complete welder?
Are you attracted by the welder and trying to buy one to play with? ...
Are you attracted by the welder and trying to buy one to play with? ...
I just want to see if it's the cheap-o type of welder and see how far in this hobby he can get with it... and if I think it's not good enough, then I'll recommend him some affordable alternatives.
