No it wasn't the sound so much. I also was pondering over the distortion part of it and will probably ask in the future what will fix this "something like a chip or component that will lower it.

The distortion is in the design. If designed and implemented right there should be as much distortion as you want. Some things count on distortion, like guitar effects pedals and such. Audio amplifiers are out of my purview.

When I got my first car I put a spring reverb in with the radio, and to this day love that sound.

 

When I got my first car I put a spring reverb in with the radio, and to this day love that sound.

Spring reverb in a car?!?!

Didn't you get ridiculous reverb amplification of every bump in the road? The spring reverbs I've dealt with have all been very vulnerable to picking up external vibrations.

 

You posted a video of a 3-transistors simple amplifier claimed to produce a 50W output. It sounded very distorted because the level was turned up higher than the output could go so the output was "clipping". For an output of 50W then its 12V battery must be about 48V and more powerful transistors must be used.
I calculate that the output when it is barely clipping is only 2.65W:

 

Thanks shortbus, ebeowulf17 and Audioguru for answering. no I didn't want distortion, I wanted to take it out. I'm just trying to find a project to get started with and learn the basics of electronics and amp building. I would prefer to go with a few more watts like:
http://www.circuitstoday.com/tda7294-100w-audiio-amplifier
But eventually I would like to make my own design. yes I would put a converter in the new design cos from your postings and my reading this would be necessary to obtain the wattage I want. and I think most people running multiple car amps put one in their cars anyway right? If you didn't I would think it would drain your battery. I have more question like how many volts do you put on a PCB? I don't think you can just hook any voltage you want to them. I think it would burn up the PCB not just the components but the board wiring itself could fry.
I'm going to try to put a pic of the Mindblower in the post that you can enlarge "don't want to take up half the page". I'm not a pic person or internet master. If you don't see one it's because it didn't work and I removed it.

Got some more questions on Diptrace but I will put them in a later post.

When I got my first car I put a spring reverb in with the radio, and to this day love that sound.

That's the feeling I'm talking about. It's something you never forget.
Edit well the enlarge didn't work to great did it? tried removing it and it didn't work, OH well.
got it I removed it

 

If you didn't I would think it would drain your battery.

It will. Stepping up the voltage requires more current from the battery.

 

It will. Stepping up the voltage requires more current from the battery.

I think this is where I'm getting confused. Been reading on multiple car amps in your car. Now knowing each one pulls it's own 12VDC and even using a distribution box this would be a drain on your battery. I wouldn't just turn on accessory without the car running and listen. Don't think you would be listening long before you would need a jump. Now doesn't the same principle work for a converter? I'm trying to figure out how the mindblower got all that sound and wattage only using 12VDC without a converter. Again only six different parts " nine all together when you count two transistors, two diodes and two capacitors" might have said seven before that was wrong. Let's say you got three amps in you car ( front, rear, and sub) they are all only hooked up to 12VDC and you turn on your car you aren't drawing 36VDC. your battery would instantly die I would think. I'm trying to put what Audioguru said and what I understand together in my mind.

 

Spring reverb in a car?!?!

Didn't you get ridiculous reverb amplification of every bump in the road? The spring reverbs I've dealt with have all been very vulnerable to picking up external vibrations.

Really not that bad, only when going over a railroad crossing did it cause a problem. I think the springs were damped some how. But this was also when car radios were AM only and even 8 track tape was still in the future.

 

You posted a video of a 3-transistors simple amplifier claimed to produce a 50W output. It sounded very distorted because the level was turned up higher than the output could go so the output was "clipping". For an output of 50W then its 12V battery must be about 48V and more powerful transistors must be used.
I calculate that the output when it is barely clipping is only 2.65W:

You are taking advertising too literally. It's just like vacuum cleaners and table saw horsepower. The max amps they advertise is not "working amps" but "stall amps" of the motors. You have a very low threshold of distortion from your years of doing audio. Most people don't even notice the distortion you find objectionable. If they would show the THD of those "high" watt stereos at the total wattage they advertise no one would buy them, but it sure looks good in a catalog or advertisement.

 

Yea I'm sure the mindblower didn't put out 50 watts per speaker as advertised. I get what he's saying though. still trying to work on the pic so you can all see what I'm talking about. for some reason my photoshop stop working and no other program I have resizes.

 

no other program I have resizes

Try Irfanview. Great little viewer/player/editor. Freeware.

 

The old MindBlower speaker did not produce much clear output power. It is a very simple design and uses old fashioned transformers so it produces only middle sound frequencies like a horn, no deep bass and no sizzling highs. Since the circuit is simple then its distortion is high.
Its 3-wires speaker or later its output transformer doubled its output voltage swing, which also doubled its output current so its output of 21W was 4 times an ordinary 5.2W speaker.

The TDA7294 amplifier project on the Circuits Today website has an parts value serious error.
The datasheet is what you should look at since is shows the schematic without an error and it shows an output of 100W with LOTS of distortion and shows 70W and 80W with less distortion.

 

Then would you please kinda point someone like me in the right direction. I was also looking at these:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/INA134PA?qs=VBduBm9rCJRndyZIruKNRA==&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8d6ayILU3AIVCHZeCh1EAwksEAQYAiABEgIhZPD_BwE
data sheet:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ina134.pdf
Instead of the old transistor type why not go chip?
It's just a project to get someone like me learning the ins and outs of it Audioguru. wish I knew what you know. but then I would need help adding the components to go with it.

 

Then there's these:
https://vetco.net/products/nte7186-...MI8d6ayILU3AIVCHZeCh1EAwksEAQYAyABEgLWpvD_BwE

 

Picking parts at random will get you nowhere.
The line receiver IC might replace an opamp but it cannot provide enough current to drive a speaker.
NTE does not make anything. They buy parts from another company, rub off the numbers and add their own numbers with a very high fee.

The 100W amp IC actually produces only 80W when powered from 58VDC. The IC heats with another 58V at 80W that must also be supplied. 58V at 160W in a car or truck??

 

Picking parts at random will get you nowhere.

I understand that. that's why I was looking at the transistor part of it first.

The 50W amp IC actually produces only 80W when powered from 58VDC. The IC heats with another 58V at 80W that must also be supplied. 58V at 160W in a car or truck??

Yea I read that part. That's also why I asked you. See I actually learned what I know by getting my hands dirty, meaning just jump into it and try.
If I failed I would start over and try again. It's like those tuts give you the components list with little other info. The one that says 50w starts with R1 is a resistor and it gives a value of 1M ohm on the list.

R1 = 1MΩ

Now if I pull this up on Digikey I get this:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en...35&quantity=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
Now look at all the other specs. It never tells you what wattage or any thing else. I'm sure I can't just pick one and here we go, That would be picking randomly. All the tuts have one thing in common they all list what Transistors you need to start with first (In the title) Then all other components go from there. That's why I'm trying to ask as many questions about them and get all the info on them first.

 

It is simple to calculate how much heating (power dissipation) in a resistor. The formula for heating is Voltage across it times the Current in it, or the Voltage across it squared then divided by the Resistance, or the Current in it squared times the Resistance.

1M? Then a 1/4W resistor will be pretty hot at 0.2W if it has 440V across it. With 100V it will dissipate only 0.01W and will not get slightly warm.
If the supply is 30V and nothing boosts it then for 0.2W in a 1/4W resistor the resistance must not be less than 4.4k ohms.

For calculating the voltage rating of a capacitor then simply double the voltage it will ever have.

 

Thank you Audioguru. I will have to read it several times to place it in my head but that helped a lot.

 

I am tiring of teaching the basics to you since I am not a teacher. I like talking about more complicated circuits to my peers.
Some members here are teachers and maybe they have the round ball that shows all the basic simple calculations in electronics: voltage, current, resistance, capacitance, inductance and power.

 

Sorry you feel that way Audioguru. I have checked to see if there was a basic electronic class around and the closes one is over 60 miles away.
The other option is going to college but due to other commitments, and general responsibilities this is also not an option at this moment. I do understand your not a teacher. If you choose not to answer anymore I will also understand. I will just wait and keep checking to see if someone else has.

 

Hello,

@Berzerker , there is a basic electronics introduction textbook on this site in the education tab:
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/

Bertus