then check for loose connector joints

 

hey. check out the pictures of main board. i don't have any of those screws in right now. could that be why its not showing picture. just white screen. because needs screws in to complete circuit. there are four screws

 

The Main board and PSU does not add up.
I don't think that is the real PSU of that board.
Or that PSU is from another unit.

Are trying to mix them.
Cause Your main board seems different

 

its an insignia tv. never buying one again. those are the only two boards in the tv. and i'm not trying to mix them

 

Show me the back of the TV with the boards properly placed and mounted .
Make all the necessary connections too

 

ok now i did not mount them properly (didn't place screws in). but that is where the boards would go. and there is only one proper position to put every cable in so i know i have everything hooked up right.

 

There's hardly anything in it.
It is very different from Sony, philips or sharp LCD TV's.
I can't seem to located the LVDS DSP ASSY

 

See the pic.
Let me see that area clearly.
It seems You have a secondary DC to DC converters on main board

 

i will do that tomorrow. there is no sun outside right now so you won't get the clear picture that you are looking for

 

here are close ups.a little too sunny outside though

 

I want to u mark a fresh second picture like the one shown here.
Not the arrows, get me the voltages.
Meter negative should be grounded for every measurement.
When taking capacitor voltage, you can measure at both pins of the cap.
Note that all the voltage are DC and will be below 25V DC.

 

replaced the fuse. there are no voltages anywhere except at the diode the voltage started from some number don't remember then decreases all way to 0.2 or somewhere that low. so board isn't getting any voltages. not even at the fuse. i don't know where to put black probe. i put it on the ground from the cable from the power supply to main board. i even put black probe on one side of fuse and other on other side. nothing. but passes continuity with new one.

 

Put the black probe on that metallic cover on the main board, it is grounded and measure again
Make sure that You have 12V at the supply output first

 

See the PIC. Confirm it
If that is not the connector, show me the right one.
The Power supply connector connecting the PSU and main board

 

yes that is it and 12 DCV at main board both 12V pins. tv doesn't turn on anymore either. first worked with maroon tint. then just was white blank screen. and now doesn't turn on. no voltages anywhere on main board. besides the 12V pins. no voltage on 5VSB one

where does the voltage go first on main board. fuse. diode. etc????????

going around and probing around the board from either of the pins of fuse there is no continuity(black probe on one fuse pin. red going around components near fuse). but there is continuity between both fuse pins. resolder fuse in????

 

Look at the picture.
Disconnect power
Put the meter in resistance range, I want only 0Ω readings, to be sure.
Connect one probe permanently to the marking label 1 which is the 12V pins.
And use the other probe to measure the resistance at the other numbered points one by one. Which means only 1 probe will be moved between the markings
The last no.s is the jumpers.

 

those aren't the 12V pins. at 12V pins i get nothing. at ground pins i get something

fuse is OL from every pin

black probe to red in auto resistance mode

these are all in kΩ too

bottom pin to 3
5.34
2nd from bottom to 3
0.72
3rd from bottom to 3
0.72
4th from bottom to 3
5.454
5th from bottom to 3
5.4 increasing

switching to analog meter

 

bottom one barely flicks at x10

fuse does nothing

2nd to bottom to 3
2
3rd to bottom to 3
2
everything else no flick

jumpers 6 & 7 & 4
third from top barely flicks
2nd and third from bottom near 0
everything else barely flicks or doesn't move

jumper 5
over 2 on 2nd and 3rd to bottom
everything else barely flicks or doesn't move

got to take off. sorry. been busy with school. always here from 11 30 pm to 3 am GMT-6 though

 

You were right about the 12V pin. I got them wrong.

You need to find where the fuse has it's connection.
It should be to the supply.
disconnect the fuse and try to trace to where the fuse pins are connected.

Find for 0 ohms connection.
The connection to the fuse should be to those transistor or to a diode near by.
Try to trace it.

See the pic. Those are highly likely points that could be connected to the fuse.
If not, then try to find anything.
We need a connection from the 12V to any of those points.

It's a MUST

 

man. that fuse leads to nowhere. tried and tried and tried. that was actually my first solder job that fuse. so of course. knowing me. the copper traces came off. i got way better now though especially with the solder pump. the solder wick was a little hard to use and always overheated the board by time started sucking up the solder due to my soldering gun.

what i usually do when no copper trace. is i will heat up higher on wire and holder solder near bottom and then work my way up and then let it drop down to the board by moving solder gun closer to bottom but never touching the board. that is how i did the bridge with the half missing part of the board. i did not put a copper wire like you told me and made sure i didn't burn board even more by only heating up higher on the wire.

so could it be the copper traces came off or something so the voltage isn't getting past fuse or even to the fuse????? cause when i checked voltages at fuse it was 0.

no continuity from 12v to fuse. which could be cause copper rings are gone. which could be why no voltage is getting anywhere. therefore there is no continuity from 12V to anywhere.

NOW THIS PIN (HAS NOTHING DIRECTLY OVER IT ON TOP SIDE, SO DON'T KNOW WHAT PIN IS FOR) WHICH IS CLOSE TO FUSE IN PICTURE SHOWS CONTINUITY TO POINTS EVEN ON OTHER SIDE OF BOARD. MAYBE EVERYWHERE ON BOARD. SO I THINK IT IS FUSE TRACES!