Unless he has chosen a different module, the TS will require four of these wired in parallel. The amplifier drives an impedance of 4Ω.

Hey, do you think the speakers should have 3W as RMS or do you think peak? Annie found some that had an RMS of 3W and a peak of 5W but if the 3W was recommended as peak then I can go with those. Not sure what power is best for the 5v amplifier output?

 

Don't forget 4x3W=12W.

Man I every time I think I start to get the hang of things I learn something new to lead me astray

 

Don't forget 4x3W=12W.

Sorry for asking a probably dumb question, but is 12W ok? Considering the power for the whole system is 12V 3A (36W) but the amplifier is reduced to 5v

 

How much sound output do you need?
My clock radio puts out ½W. Even though I am almost deaf I can still hear it.

 

How much sound output do you need?
My clock radio puts out ½W. Even though I am almost deaf I can still hear it.

I see, well I probably wouldn’t want it much louder than an alarm clock, depending on how loud your alarm is lol

 

Hmm I see, how much in your opinion would the rpm be exceeded by? I don’t really want it going too much over 6rpm, would it be safer to get a 4 or 5rpm motor for example and then if the rpm was slightly over it would be closer to the 6?

Sorry I misread your answer; the motor I’m using is a 12v

 

I just conducted a quick test.

I have a Simpson Model 886 Sound Level Meter.



With 100mW rms music into a 3" loudspeaker, the meter placed 1 foot from the speaker reads in excess of 80dB.

And that is LOUD!

 

The power rating of a speaker says nothing about how loud it will be. The relevant specification is “sensitivity” stated in dB at 1W input at 1m. 90 dB is very efficient. Small speakers will not be that high, except , perhaps above 1KHz.

But then, none of these no-name speakers have hat spec listed.

Bob

 

Hey guys,

So the majority of my components arrived today, just tested out the motor which seems to be working well, a bit louder than I anticipated but I'm sure most of the noise will be confined by the casing around and above.

Turns out the button I ordered for the power on/off is a hold-down push button so no good for the main power as it has to be held down, although I'm going to order 3 more of this type and use them to control the volume/play/repeat function of the soundboard as these should just require a quick push and release.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...235501?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMoHUBsYCcBaAcgEQAQgF0BfIA

I was wondering if you guys know if there is a push button that is a click release button similar size and shape to the one mentioned above, ideally on the same website so I can order it along with the 3 additional push buttons? I'm trying to search but can't seem to find any mention to a click button on the search options in the link below:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/category/switches/15

Anyone's help is always appreciated!

Thanks,

Jacob

 

Think I found it!
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/e-switch/PS1040BBLK/1802903
http://switches-connectors-custom.cwind.com/Asset/GPB024A05BB.pdf

Also just learned the difference between ON-OFF & ON-MOM

 

The tiny speakers made by a no-name-brand company have no detailed audio spec's. The Name-Brand speakers from Digikey and Madisound have the same price as the poor quality no-name-brand speakers from Amazon.
The speakers from Digikey and Madisound have specs that say they will not be loud and will produce no low frequencies (like all tiny speakers) but their high frequency response is good as tweeters. They will produce squeaking sounds.

The amplifier also has no detailed audio spec's but similar amplifiers like the PAM8403 that produce 3W of very distorted noise or 2.5W of low distortion audio into 4 ohms when its supply is 5V.

A clock radio produces about 0.5W but its speaker is much larger and much louder than the tiny speakers (shriekers) used here.
A clock radio speaker produces some low frequencies unlike the tiny speakers.
Therefore a clock radio will be much louder than the system planned here.

 

Hey guys,

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/apem-inc/401ZQE/1280084 - 1A 125V

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/e-switch/PS1040BBLK/1802903 - 3A 125V

So I ordered these two switches last night, I'd like to use the top switch since the mounting is attached to the front, however the current rating on this is only 1A. Will this not be able to handle the current going through my circuit? The lower one should certainly be able to handle it, which I got as a backup.

Thanks,

Jacob

 

Hey guys,

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/apem-inc/401ZQE/1280084 - 1A 125V

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/e-switch/PS1040BBLK/1802903 - 3A 125V

So I ordered these two switches last night, I'd like to use the top switch since the mounting is attached to the front, however the current rating on this is only 1A. Will this not be able to handle the current going through my circuit? The lower one should certainly be able to handle it, which I got as a backup.

Thanks,

Jacob

You can figure this out.

What is the switch connected to? What are the voltages and currents for that connection? Unless the switch is connecting the battery to the device, the voltage will be a logic level one (5V or 3.3V likely) and the current will be vanishingly small.

 

You can figure this out.

What is the switch connected to? What are the voltages and currents for that connection? Unless the switch is connecting the battery to the device, the voltage will be a logic level one (5V or 3.3V likely) and the current will be vanishingly small.

your probably right Yaakov, I just have very little confidence in this area lol.

Well I think the switch is going to be connected to the main power after the female power jack. The switch will keep the circuit on/off for the 12V motor, as well as wires going up to the slip rings for the above LED’a and the 12v - 5v converter which will provide the power for the sound board and speakers. So this essentially will dictate the flow of power to the whole system.

 

your probably right Yaakov, I just have very little confidence in this area lol.

Well I think the switch is going to be connected to the main power after the female power jack. The switch will keep the circuit on/off for the 12V motor, as well as wires going up to the slip rings for the above LED’a and the 12v - 5v converter which will provide the power for the sound board and speakers. So this essentially will dictate the flow of power to the whole system.

OK, then add up the current requirements for each part, simple addition. The switch is not rated at 1A DC, that rating is AC. The DC rating, according to the datasheet is .5A at 28V.

 

OK, then add up the current requirements for each part, simple addition. The switch is not rated at 1A DC, that rating is AC. The DC rating, according to the datasheet is .5A at 28V.

OK, then add up the current requirements for each part, simple addition. The switch is not rated at 1A DC, that rating is AC. The DC rating, according to the datasheet is .5A at 28V.

Ah ok, well the LED's are 1A, then the motor is also 1A. The sound board current rating isn't specified but it will be at a lower voltage of 5V. The speakers also don't show a current rating but their impedance is 4ohms and their rated power is 2W

 

You are using a 12V 1A motor for this? That is severe overkill. I made a prop for a dance routine that was a like a music box with spinning ballerina, except, to be really visible, the ballerina was a Barbie dell (i.e. 9" tall). She had lights on her dress, so similar to your project in that I had to get power to the lights on a spinning platform.

My solution had the motor and battery inside the spinning part, thus no need for slip rings. The motor was 3.7V at 30mA, which is less than 1% of the of the power of the motor you are using, and it had more power than needed.

Edit: Changed avatar to be a picture from the routine. My wife's dress is identical to the one on the spinning doll, and it lights up too!

Bob

 

Hey Guys,

So I tested out some of the components today, the motor works fine, but for some reason, the LED's and the audio amplifier/speakers aren't responding when I connect them to power.
My main concerns are the following:

1. I do not know which contacts are positive/negative for the power jack as it is not indicated?
2. At one or two points the positive and negative wire connected to the same contact and a small spark occurred, may I have blown some of the components?
3. How can I determine if it is an issue with the power or components since the motor continues to work with the current wall adapter and power jack it should be an issue with the components or my wiring?

Below are the following components I'm using:

Power jack:
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...10?s=N4IgTCBcDaIAQGUDCBGADAFgJwFoByAIiALoC+QA

Wall adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086SQLRBP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED's:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2733042044...var=572654974121&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

Speakers:
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...s=N4IgTCBcDa4IwAYAsBaAygWQMyLMlcKAcgCIgC6AvkA

Audio amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YYYRGZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Volt converter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P663XJV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Motor: Works
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074K1Y775/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The image attached shows the wiring method for the speakers I'm using.

 

Everything except the jack has the correct polarity shown. The polarity of the jack is simply measured. Don't you have a multimeter?
You probably got the polarity backwards and blew up things.

 

Everything except the jack has the cirrect polarity shown. The polatity of the jack is simply measured. Don't you have a multimeter?
You probably got the polarity backwards and blew up things.

No I don't have a multimeter, I'm not a frequent user so have never owned one. I hope that isn't the case.
I tried just one speaker instead of the circuit, it seems to make a few crackly noises for a minute when I connect the power and the USB flashes but no song appears to play. Not sure if I can only have mp3 files on the USB since I currently have some other documents on the USB I was testing