I've applied flux on both sides and pressed it on soldered joints but the wick is not absorbing.

I'm doing this for the build it yourself RTL-SDR project, I need to remove the USB connector, IR sensor or LED and antenna connector from the dongle, I've managed to remove antenna connector with suction tube but I'm unable to do it for IR sensor or LED and USB connector, the wick is just not absorbing.

 

hi,
How old is the wick, it maybe a slightly tarnished.
Lay a piece of the wick flat on the bench and wipe in some flux with a piece of rough cloth.

E

Update:
If the wick tarnish is really bad, wet/wipe, say a 3 inch length of wick with some domestic vinegar, leave for about 5 minutes dry off and then apply the flux to the wick.

 

Are you getting the wick hot enough?

 

The flux coated wick needs to be hot enough to melt the solder that it is pressed against. But here is a problem, in that the stupid lead-free solder has a higher melting temperature.

 

Are you getting the wick hot enough?

I think so, it becomes too hot to hold it.

 

Can you melt the solder without the wick, with the bare iron?

Bob

 

Quite recently I run across the same problem. It seemed somewhat tarnished. Just smearing a minimal bit of flux helped a lot.

While not what I learnt, I am getting better results by keeping the PCB and iron, steady and once the solder melts, I force the wick to drag (and soak) the solder. While it seems too rough, it works well.

Anyway, don't count on me to work in avionics.

 

Using solder wicks can be tricky, I always have to turn up the heat when using one, and of course the more times you fail, the harder the solder gets.

Also the wick I use comes off the roll tightly compacted, so I always "spread" the wick before using.

 

Can you melt the solder without the wick, with the bare iron?

Bob

Yes, but it remains in the same place.

 

Using solder wick is almost always tricky! AND it does take more heat, and the sloder wick needs to get hot enough to melt the solder. That is quite a lot of heat. ES gave good information in post #8.

 

You may find that the spool you have now is defective.

 

Always add some rosin flux to the braid if it doesn't already have some.

 

put bigger lump of solder on the board to wick off,

 

What kind of flux?

You can get plumbers flux from any hardware store

 

Of course and that's a bad idea for electronics.

Rubbish!

LA-CO Water-soluble paste won’t leave residue.
Meets industry standard ASTM B813 and contains no zinc chloride to reduce corrosion concerns
Non-acid, non-toxic, and lead-free to eliminate safety concerns
Cleans copper upon application, allowing solder to run more smoothly.

 

That's a good plan to tear off pads.

Not a single one up to now and desoldering in my current design has been intensive along three busy weeks.

 

I have seen PCB traces and component leads eaten up countless times by plumbing flux. Smell gives it away.

There is Many different types.
Read my edit!

 

Well I have been in situations such as the OP appears to be in, and in some cases, the issue requires something more than the regular flux cored solder can handle, If something is difficult to clean in the normal way, a little harmless assistance is needed.
It has worked for me.

 

Hello there!
Did someone say rubbish?
Happens to be my mantra.
To the Thread Starter. Is it possible to take a photograph of the equipment you are using the soldering iron the solder wick or perhaps a description of the soldering iron is it variable temperature?How many watts? type of tip you're using? Any and all information you can provide,thank you.

 

Then there is: