Can't do that. $12 of shipping costs. lol
I might have to buy them from Aliexpress or so. There are some packs really cheap and with some variety like this:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/32464664187.html
Can't do that. $12 of shipping costs. lol
That looks useful anyway.Can't do that. $12 of shipping costs. lol
I might have to buy them from Aliexpress or so. There are some packs really cheap and with some variety like this:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/32464664187.html
What is the reference for the thermistor? Is the ADS7142 ?That looks useful anyway.
No, that's a part number for an ADC. Something like this would make sure you have what you need: https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005001810931300.htmlWhat is the reference for the thermistor? Is the ADS7142 ?
Thank you. I will try to keep things smaller than that. An just to let know, that PDF file didn't open for me.I've done around two dozen fan control projects over the decades, from dumb to smart, and have never seen any system advantage to smart. I'm not raining on your project, and completely get wanting to do something a certain way when other ways are faster/cheaper/whatever. In fact, I'm doing that right now with a garage door project. But - if you run into problems with the STM31L0 approach, here is another option. ebay, cheap, zero programming, serious reliability.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-Norma...nsor-Thermostat-KSD-01F-50-R-es-/363265306097
http://j5d2v7d7.stackpathcdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/KSD-01F.pdf
Also on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-KSD-01F-Temperature-Control-Thermostat/dp/B008SOC49A
ak
Hum, ok, so I think those needs to be literally in contact with the part I want to monitor. I'm not sure how am I gonna do that.No, that's a part number for an ADC. Something like this would make sure you have what you need: https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005001810931300.html
It can be on wires. It’s not critical since you’ll calibrate it anyway.Thank you. I will try to keep things smaller than that. An just to let know, that PDF file didn't open for me.
Hum, ok, so I think those needs to be literally in contact with the part I want to monitor. I'm not sure how am I gonna do that.
Because I'll have to measure the distance between the spot where I will place the small PCB and the spot I want to measure the temperature on my NVMe drive.
I'm not sure I understand.It can be on wires. It’s not critical since you’ll calibrate it anyway.
You put leads on the thermistor and use Kapton tape or a little cyanoacrylate glue to stick it on, then put put something like a JST connector on the board and plug it in.I'm not sure I understand.
I mean, the thermistor needs to be in contact with the NVMe drive, which makes it a bit more complicated how and where am I going to place/hold the PCB I will build with this project.
This is what I think it will look like. Front view. So, I'm not sure this is still the best option.
I will have to hold the project PCB to the case and then, make sure the size of the thermistor is enough to be in contact with the NVMe drive surface.
View attachment 236956
Wait, but the thermistor will be, somehow, connected to the PCB and the JST connector you are talking about is to power my project PCB, is that it? I'm sorry, I'm not sure I'm following.You put leads on the thermistor and use Kapton tape or a little cyanoacrylate glue to stick it on, then put put something like a JST connector on the board and plug it in.
Leads terminated in a small connector like a JST are attached to the thermistor. They are long enough to reach from where they will be attached on the drive to where the PCB is located. The PCB has a mating connector on it. The thermistor is taped or glued to the drive, and the leads are routed to the PCB and plugged it.Wait, but the thermistor will be, somehow, connected to the PCB and the JST connector you are talking about is to power my project PCB, is that it? I'm sorry, I'm not sure I'm following.
Ahh ok, I got it. Thanks.Leads terminated in a small connector like a JST are attached to the thermistor. They are long enough to reach from where they will be attached on the drive to where the PCB is located. The PCB has a mating connector on it. The thermistor is taped or glued to the drive, and the leads are routed to the PCB and plugged it.
One last question about the items to buy.Leads terminated in a small connector like a JST are attached to the thermistor. They are long enough to reach from where they will be attached on the drive to where the PCB is located. The PCB has a mating connector on it. The thermistor is taped or glued to the drive, and the leads are routed to the PCB and plugged it.
Sure, but I wailed also get some prepared pigtails which are cheap and will save you a lot of problems with crimping. Most come as pairs but you really old need the females to attach to the thermistor. Just make sure the PCB connector and the pigtail are the same size.One last question about the items to buy.
Is this ok for the JST connectors?
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/32913230037.html
Like this:The MOSFET should be between the Fan and GND, with no R3. You want that source pin to be tied to ground. Do you require R2 to limit the fan current? Is it not rated to 12V? A 12V rated fan would not require a resistor.
One of the 3 pins on the fan is the tachometer signal output, which you can just ignore if you want.
You should place a reverse-biased diode across the poles of the fan to absorb any inductive spike when you turn the fan off at the MOSFET.
Much. R7 could be a much lower value and possibly eliminated. Do you know the specs of that output from your micro? The only reason to limit current with R7 would be to protect that output. You can estimate the current you need from the gate capacitance and PWM frequency. If the micro can’t keep up, you may need an additional transistor to drive the gate.Like this:View attachment 237384
The fan is rated at 12V, 40mA, that's why I put there the 12V/40mA = 300Ω resistor.
Is this better now?
If the fan motor i a brushless DC type, it already has electronic commutation and probably some components to protect the internal transistors. In addition, a protection diode could be put across the mosfet and protect it just a well, or even netter.Much. R7 could be a much lower value and possibly eliminated. Do you know the specs of that output from your micro? The only reason to limit current with R7 would be to protect that output. You can estimate the current you need from the gate capacitance and PWM frequency. If the micro can’t keep up, you may need an additional transistor to drive the gate.
Don’t forget the flyback diode around the motor poles. It’ll protect your MOSFET.
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz