I do have a nice shiny new 3,300uF, any harm in using it. I might need to connect something that needs a bit of smoothing, probably low current ?

 

Should be no harm in using it.
Max.

 

Thanks Max.
I found another PC power supply. The fan is the biggest I have ever seen on one. It's about 5" in dia at a guess, that's the blades not the OD. I had a quick look inside and it's comparatively empty. It's 550W so perhaps I should keep it.
It's surprising how many people have gone over to laptops. I have both and although my laptop is not a cheap one, about mid range, I would not give up my PC. Big screen, fast and 10 TB. Good old XP Pro. I managed to kill much of the crap on W10 on the laptop but I still have a long way to go. There are 3 options for the thing to report what you are doing to Microsoft. I changed to the basic one but that's just not good enough. If I can kill it I will.
I use a thing called Zone Alarm and so far W10 won't let me install it. You can block anything going in or out from anywhere with that. The new versions are crap. The old versions were manual but the new one knows it all, or so it thinks. I need a 64 bit older type.

I need for this power supply a digital meter that goes down to 0V (2V Min) so it's got to have power and not run of the line it's metering. Amazon is full of them from a few pounds upwards. I need Volts and Amps but for LED's I need mV and mA as well. Do you have any experience with them ?

 

I have not used or have any experience of any of the digital Ma meters on ebay etc.
I have installed Zone Alarm on the HP Lap Top though running Win10.
I get it free with my internet provider.
Max.

 

Thanks Max. You seems to have covered it all.

 

I have not used or have any experience of any of the digital Ma meters on ebay etc.
I have installed Zone Alarm on the HP Lap Top though running Win10.
I get it free with my internet provider.
Max.

It seems the new versions of Zone Alarm have a data base of 'gooddies' and 'baddies'. The older versions had no data base and blocked everything, even Internet Explorer or any of the other bits of Windows that quite legally require access to the Internet. When let's say you first run Int. Exp. it will flag and ask you to temporally allow, temporally disallow, permanently block or permanently allow whatever it is.
Once you set the 'permanently' choice either way the job is done. I can well imagine that the new Zone Alarm may well allow this snooping by Microsoft to continue. There was a list of what you had allowed in the old version and the choices you had made, they could be changed. It included normal Access and Server access. It all sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't.
Apart from Zone Alarm I am using Spybot - Search and Destroy (free). It's one of these McCrappy type things that takes action after half the world has been infected. Very occasionally it might find a key logger or some other crap - as is this Microsoft thing. Unfortunately W10 won't allow me to install that either. I always permanently block ALL updates from Microcrap and ALL anit virus including the Firewall. Those are what the hackers go for 99% of the time. I have visited some mighty strange places over the last 7 years hunting for old video's and not once been bitten.
I will over time try and stop this W10 Microsoft snooping and all the other rubbish that comes with it - like Contana
I bought the laptop just to play videos on holiday or away from home. I just cannot stand the mind destroying adverts and crap there is on TV these days.

Anyone else out there that has had any dealings with these digital meters ?

 

As far as I have got.

 

As wired above I get 27.3V. I could wire this transformer in series and get 54.6V. I would have preferred to get at least 30V but by the time I have used a buck convertor I am going to be around 24V. Is there any way I can use the Buck convertor below. it's rated at 55V and 60V max. Would a large diode or 3 drop the 54.6V down to a safer level ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yeeco-Adju...F8&qid=1477621318&sr=8-36&keywords=Yeeco+buck