I've heard that more than once.
I don't know whether it's just because another MS operating system has to be learned all over again or whether W10 really sucks.
I still have one Vista machine left, but I'll be reporting every keystroke to Microsoft eventually.

Somewhere within 3 days of W10 updating - an update took nearly 2h. Suddenly I've got a new look log on screen and everything runs faster - haven't had a "not responding" all day. Originally the free W10 upgrade on W7, it ran as slow as an 8MHz 286. The whole lot came crashing down after about a month, so I cleansed the HDD and did a ground up install of W10 - it wasn't much better.

When W10 imploded; it made such a mess, I had to delete all partitions and overwrite with a Linux install. The only problem with that, was my needing to learn how to use it.

 

I would tell you about new felt kits for the front of the drum but that case pressurizing is a bad design.
It collects lint and starts fires.

Oh...wait...you already know that.

 

By ek a gas tumble dryer. I have never heard of one in the UK. It must look like something out of a 1930's SciFy film. What a wonderful bit of kit to last so long.
.

We just traded in our 30yr old gas tumbler dryer for electric (it was still going strong), the one before that was 20years old when I got it.
I used to get the igniter on the old one replaced free of charge by the Gas Co, they took them in and rebuilt them, it had the old vibrator ignitor. The new ones have pilot element.
Max.

 

I'm still using a 1979 Kenmore...because I used to fix them. Now I just fix mine, but it's been years since it took a dump.
I remember now. Bad belt.
I found a 5 rib belt in the shed and put it on the 4 groove pulley. That extra 1/8 of an inch difference in the drive pulley made it spin so much faster that the clothes never dropped at the top of the circle. They dried on the side facing the air, but not on the side facing the drum.

I learned something that day, too.

 

Well chaps that's not bad going. Some old idiot building a power supply to old gas fired / electric tumble dryers on one page. What shall we have next. Better leave 'marital aids out of it. bigclivedotcom on Youtube has had a crack at that. Quite amusing items. I guess we had better stick to something really, really boring like LED's. I joke, but only just. The mains ones come apart and there are all these nice little blocks of LED's you can saw off. Either that or change the Pf thingy and burn them out in minutes or make them last forever. I hate to think what sort of DC current they are getting. If your into LED's then bigclive is your man.

 

bigclivedotcom on Youtube has had a crack at that. Quite amusing items. I guess we had better stick to something really, really boring like LED's.

Is this guy some kind of comedian?
His TIG welder soldering iron is a joke.

Max.

 

Please help me with this one: Is this guy a joker or an idiot?

 

Nothing Pre-historic on the dryer, but this is the part that basically failed. This one is the bad side, The bearing seized, but basically OK. The metal cap "rubbed off". This is the driven side with a Urethane belt. The packed grease solidified.



This side is connected to a squirrel cage blower. The support is sandwiched between two convex plates. The tabs on the rubber hold it in place.



The preventative maintenance is generally cleaning out out the lint. It actually collected on the thermal sensor which would shut down the burner. I never checked this part. This http://tom-pac.com/tp-2557-and-tp-2598-bearing-gel/ is the grease I repacked the NOS bearing with and there is now thrust washers on both sides.

There was one problem the dryer had that drove me particularly nuts. It would basically shut down after about 15 min, It would cool and it could start up again. That turned out to be the burner head that directed some of the gas to the gas valve thermocouple. The piece would warp when it got heated, directing less flame to the thermocouple and turn the gas off.

Temperature detection doesn't work. The shaft operates at about 100 F. Ideally, you need to detect belt slip and some new dryers do.

I think, if the belt falls off, over temperature would be detected and the dryer would shut off. The bad part of the design would be that it would continue to re-start about every 20 minutes until the timed cycle ends. I'm not sure what would happen in auto-dry mode. It might try to re-start forever.

The power switching is simple. You move the rotating timer and you have to hold the start button for a few seconds. Power is stopped if you move the timer manually or open the door. It has timed, air and auto-dry modes in 1968, It could also sprinkle clothes and it had a place to put a bottle of "smell".

 

Please help me with this one: Is this guy a joker or an idiot?

Apparently both, at least in my book.
Max.

 

Is this guy some kind of comedian?
His TIG welder soldering iron is a joke.

Max.

I too was confused about this video. I don't know if he is taking the pee about other Youtube videos or what. Generally he seems quite sane, unless he is dipping sausages in chocolate or making Late coffee with ingredients that cause to foam all over the place. One must remember he is a Scot. They are a race of gentlemen who run around the Highlands naked except for a kilt. The heather is wet, cold and waste high and does cause 'accoutrements' to become highly inflamed. Chasing Haggis is a national sport as is throwing telegraph poles. He's just having a 'laugh'.

 

Nothing Pre-historic on the dryer, but this is the part that basically failed. This one is the bad side, The bearing seized, but basically OK. The metal cap "rubbed off". This is the driven side with a Urethane belt. The packed grease solidified.

View attachment 112682

This side is connected to a squirrel cage blower. The support is sandwiched between two convex plates. The tabs on the rubber hold it in place.

View attachment 112683

The preventative maintenance is generally cleaning out out the lint. It actually collected on the thermal sensor which would shut down the burner. I never checked this part. This http://tom-pac.com/tp-2557-and-tp-2598-bearing-gel/ is the grease I repacked the NOS bearing with and there is now thrust washers on both sides.

There was one problem the dryer had that drove me particularly nuts. It would basically shut down after about 15 min, It would cool and it could start up again. That turned out to be the burner head that directed some of the gas to the gas valve thermocouple. The piece would warp when it got heated, directing less flame to the thermocouple and turn the gas off.

Temperature detection doesn't work. The shaft operates at about 100 F. Ideally, you need to detect belt slip and some new dryers do.

I think, if the belt falls off, over temperature would be detected and the dryer would shut off. The bad part of the design would be that it would continue to re-start about every 20 minutes until the timed cycle ends. I'm not sure what would happen in auto-dry mode. It might try to re-start forever.

The power switching is simple. You move the rotating timer and you have to hold the start button for a few seconds. Power is stopped if you move the timer manually or open the door. It has timed, air and auto-dry modes in 1968, It could also sprinkle clothes and it had a place to put a bottle of "smell".

What does that item do ? It doesn't look in too bad a shape.

Gas is about a third the price of electricity energy wise over here but I have never heard of a gas tumble dryer before. Most of the time we dry our clothes outside. I don't know why we have this obsession with rain, we have had very little this summer, at least where I live. Living as we do under a jet stream does mean the weather can change in hours. This does make predicting weather impossible at times. The tumble dryer we have now has humidity, temperature, air flow sensors, etc. Basically it switches off when the clothes are as dry as you want them to be. If anything goes wrong outside the years guarantee you buy a new one. What is supposed to be a very green machine is in fact a green disaster waiting to happen.

A friend of mine's mother had British Gas call and do a free check on her central heating boiler. He just looked at it, condemned it, cut the gas pipe to it and blanked it off. Within 20 minutes British Gas phoned and quoted for a new boiler. Her son called a plumber friend who could find nothing wrong with the boiler. The boiler was 3 years old. British Gas plumbers get paid £100 for every boiler they condemn.

I think we again back to 'The Green Pineapple Treatment'.
A baseball bat is no good, it must be a cricket bat as it has a flat surface.

 

Please help me with this one: Is this guy a joker or an idiot?

BigClive is far from an idiot but can be a bit of a joker. He is very well respected in the industrial lighting field (he is head tech for the staging of the Edinburgh Tattoo). He makes a number of very serious educational and safety videos but does intersperse them with amusing (depends on your sense of humour I guess) items like this one where he pokes fun at other posters and component sellers. He actually has posted educational videos on proper soldering technique

 

A friend of mine's mother had British Gas call and do a free check on her central heating boiler.

In the U.S. everybody (with any sense) knows an incoming call for free service is just a way to get in your house. It could be a business scam, a burglary, or a sneaky way to get around that pesky Constitution and do an illegal police search, but it's never something honest.

 

What does that item do ? It doesn't look in too bad a shape.

It really wasn't in that bad of a shape except the end cap was missing. It wore away.

It's part #6 http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...elSearch&q=110.6307803&searchTerm=110.6307803 in the Bulkhead assembly.

The dryer model is: 110.6307803

I added two LTD0816 thrust washers: http://www.rbcbearings.com/selflubr...p?series=LTD&category=Standard&optype=Section

Using your dimensions, it's probably 10 cm long with a 12.5 mm shaft. It has two bearings on either side and the inner part is filled with high temperature grease which nearly solidified. The shaft on one side is threaded and mounts a squirrel cage blower and the other mounts a pulley. The shaft is driven by the same motor that drives the drum with a stretch Urethane belt. The pulley uses recess for the set screw. My guess is if it loosens, the pulley won't fall off. I replaced the pulley set screw with a brass tipped one. If it seizes, the brass will wear away, the temp will get too hot and the gas will turn off.

The shaft isn't rigidly held in place. There are two grooves with essentially quad O-rings" rings in the grooves. So, the two things destroyed was the bearing cap on one side and the quad rings on one side were over-heated and so was one of the rubber mounts. This caused the shaft to move out of place and the pulley to "rub" against the cap which destroyed the metal cap.

It's noting more than a high temperature bearing support that needs a little protection from lint. A pulley on one side and a squirrel cage blower (non metallic) on the other. A 5-year cleaning interval would probably be fine.

So, with a regular PM inspection, it really should last nearly forever. The quad rings I can replace separately.

==
The oddest issue was the, Brnr/shttr, Parts #: 297536, Item #2 on the burner assembly. The "cobra head" fatigued and would bend under heat, Finding that problem, drove me nuts.

==

The newer dry sensors use clothes conductivity to sense dryness. The clothes see the sensor once in a while.

==

The dryer has two "tiny quirks". If you move the drum in the reverse direction by hand, the drum idler will disassemble itself. It would be nice, but not essential if the hub to put the outside vent had a wider lip.

What I like about the dryer is the lower removable panel on the front that gives you access to the idler and the entire burner assembly. I wrote the "time to ignition" on that panel. That;s my criteria as to when to replace the ignitor. It's double sort of ignition system. The ignitor glows and opens a pilot valve. The pilot ignites and it in-turn opens the main gas valve.

==

The Lint chute, Parts #: 298984, #53 needs to be removed for the PM. It actually removes from the back. It has 6 sheet metal screws. It's heavy and is likely made of at least 18 GA steel. The duct to outside has two screws. The dryer back also uses two sheet metal screws. These will eventually be replaced with Thread-serts. See: https://www.nutty.com/Steel-Klik-Thread-Serts_c_270.html with machine screws or thumb-screws. I now have the right-angle drill attachment required, the tool and various size inserts.

The seal, #55, was made with high temperature felt. Expensive stuff.

==

I have to make this filter.


As installed.



Removed.



Seal side - Note there is no seal.



Spring side.

It's basically shaped like a shallow fish net. They used a U shaped piece of steel and sandwiched the screen and some felt between them and riveted it in place. The sliding edge design is bad because you only have a about 4 mm of thickness.

I'm not going to use the same exact design. the front will be solid and the two sides made from Aluminum C-channel. The back of the filter has to be cut at an angle. The spring side will have a SS screen and so will the back as one piece. Then a piece of hi-temp felt will make the seal. It really is a seal for lint.





The washer "crapped out too" this year. It would probably take about 4 hours to fix. The bumpers deteriorate which puts stress on the lid switch and the lid switch breaks. It's tied in the lid down position with a ty-wrap. The bumpers were upgraded. I'm the only one using the washer and I won't put my hand in the washer when it's spinning.

I built the perfect laundry tub lint filter after spending many hours with a left-handed commercial snake. Mine was drill based and right-handed. The clog is always about 25 feet away.Once I realized the tool went CCW, the clog removed quickly. So, the washer chews up the lint and puts it down the drain. it can clog the sink in the process and the drain. The pipes are 1.5" Galvanized and have developed too much friction over 50 or so years. Not really replaceable since it's under the basement cement floor. It went the standard, proof of concept which turned out to be too good and not cleanable. The next design added cleanability or finding the right filter mesh and material. Both of these designs were "hard = a relative term" (loosen a hose clamp) to remove the filter to clean. The last design is "perfect". It uses a really cool clamp collar, but I needed about 10 minutes on a lathe to make it work. I also had to tap a hole. So, it added about $40.00 USD to the design for convenience. The rest is about $80.00 USD and since 3 sources of parts were used about $30.00 was spent on postage.

A friend had a lathe and drill press at the time, so I used them before he sold the business just to make it easy to change the filter. I actually had another easy to change design in mind, but it had advantages and disadvantages in my situation.

==

Since I do PM's on the air conditioning system, I need to remove the covers 2x/year. I want to add 1/4 turn fasteners to the cover. I haven't made the required measurements yet.

I like to make stuff better than it was. My work motto was repairable, modular, re-useable, easy to work on and i don't want to see it again. This was for stuff made for research. Whether mechanical or electronic. I'd analyze the failure and make minor changes usually to fix it. Sometimes it was simple but time consuming. A 15 kV power supply at 1.5A kept breaking. My predecessors would replace a transistor. I replaced four WW resistors and re-did all of the screws that were used for electrical contact and used a threadlocker (Locktite 222). The next failure was totally unrelated - the main circuit breaker failed after 30-35 years.

==

BTW: I am a human rain predictor. I get migraines 0-48 hours before rains starts. I'm basically sensitive to the absolute value of barometric pressure vs, time.

 

We just traded in our 30yr old gas tumbler dryer for electric (it was still going strong), the one before that was 20years old when I got it.
I used to get the igniter on the old one replaced free of charge by the Gas Co, they took them in and rebuilt them, it had the old vibrator ignitor. The new ones have pilot element.
Max.

A while back I found an archive of Hillbilly electrical magazines - there were adverts for petrol driven washing machines.

 

BigClive is far from an idiot but can be a bit of a joker. He is very well respected in the industrial lighting field (he is head tech for the staging of the Edinburgh Tattoo). He makes a number of very serious educational and safety videos but does intersperse them with amusing (depends on your sense of humour I guess) items like this one where he pokes fun at other posters and component sellers. He actually has posted educational videos on proper soldering technique

I could not agree with you more. I find him absolutely fascinating. We have a similar sense of humour - terrible. I have downloaded nearly all his videos. Strange things can happen on Youtube. People just vanish at times. Barred for showing a tin of baked bans or playing a piece on music for more than a few seconds. His explanation of components helped me, they hadn't been invented when I dabbled.

I even make regular visits to Poundland and always come out with the odd LED bulb or something stupid. I have 'doctored' a few as per his suggestion to last longer. I did 'doctor' one the other way, it was fun while it lasted - which wasn't long.

The reason I am here is because of bigclive. It's 47+ years since I messed about with valve amplifiers. I am not as fit as I once was, bent a few bits over the years . I saw one of his videos and thought I used to enjoy that, a few spare cork floor tiles laid on the dining table, dug out all the old gear and any bits I had and here I am. My wife is very, very tolerant. Married 42 years.

I sent Clive an email. It was about alcohol and how it's made. I am an 'expert' in that field. Do you really know why they age whisky ? I still drink it though. Brandy - Oh dear Oh dear Oh dear. I still drink that too. It's not the alcohol that gives you a hangover, there a clue. Clive did get quite close to a decent drink with vodka and cranberry juice.

Thank you for your comment Standisher , I wish I had written it.

 

It really wasn't in that bad of a shape except the end cap was missing. It wore away.

It's part #6 http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...elSearch&q=110.6307803&searchTerm=110.6307803 in the Bulkhead assembly.

The dryer model is: 110.6307803

I added two LTD0816 thrust washers: http://www.rbcbearings.com/selflubr...p?series=LTD&category=Standard&optype=Section

Using your dimensions, it's probably 10 cm long with a 12.5 mm shaft. It has two bearings on either side and the inner part is filled with high temperature grease which nearly solidified. The shaft on one side is threaded and mounts a squirrel cage blower and the other mounts a pulley. The shaft is driven by the same motor that drives the drum with a stretch Urethane belt. The pulley uses recess for the set screw. My guess is if it loosens, the pulley won't fall off. I replaced the pulley set screw with a brass tipped one. If it seizes, the brass will wear away, the temp will get too hot and the gas will turn off.

The shaft isn't rigidly held in place. There are two grooves with essentially quad O-rings" rings in the grooves. So, the two things destroyed was the bearing cap on one side and the quad rings on one side were over-heated and so was one of the rubber mounts. This caused the shaft to move out of place and the pulley to "rub" against the cap which destroyed the metal cap.

It's noting more than a high temperature bearing support that needs a little protection from lint. A pulley on one side and a squirrel cage blower (non metallic) on the other. A 5-year cleaning interval would probably be fine.

So, with a regular PM inspection, it really should last nearly forever. The quad rings I can replace separately.

==
The oddest issue was the, Brnr/shttr, Parts #: 297536, Item #2 on the burner assembly. The "cobra head" fatigued and would bend under heat, Finding that problem, drove me nuts.

==

The newer dry sensors use clothes conductivity to sense dryness. The clothes see the sensor once in a while.

==

The dryer has two "tiny quirks". If you move the drum in the reverse direction by hand, the drum idler will disassemble itself. It would be nice, but not essential if the hub to put the outside vent had a wider lip.

What I like about the dryer is the lower removable panel on the front that gives you access to the idler and the entire burner assembly. I wrote the "time to ignition" on that panel. That;s my criteria as to when to replace the ignitor. It's double sort of ignition system. The ignitor glows and opens a pilot valve. The pilot ignites and it in-turn opens the main gas valve.

==

The Lint chute, Parts #: 298984, #53 needs to be removed for the PM. It actually removes from the back. It has 6 sheet metal screws. It's heavy and is likely made of at least 18 GA steel. The duct to outside has two screws. The dryer back also uses two sheet metal screws. These will eventually be replaced with Thread-serts. See: https://www.nutty.com/Steel-Klik-Thread-Serts_c_270.html with machine screws or thumb-screws. I now have the right-angle drill attachment required, the tool and various size inserts.

The seal, #55, was made with high temperature felt. Expensive stuff.

==

I have to make this filter.
View attachment 112706

As installed.

View attachment 112707

Removed.

View attachment 112708

Seal side - Note there is no seal.

View attachment 112709

Spring side.

It's basically shaped like a shallow fish net. They used a U shaped piece of steel and sandwiched the screen and some felt between them and riveted it in place. The sliding edge design is bad because you only have a about 4 mm of thickness.

I'm not going to use the same exact design. the front will be solid and the two sides made from Aluminum C-channel. The back of the filter has to be cut at an angle. The spring side will have a SS screen and so will the back as one piece. Then a piece of hi-temp felt will make the seal. It really is a seal for lint.

View attachment 112706 View attachment 112707 View attachment 112708
View attachment 112706View attachment 112707


The washer "crapped out too" this year. It would probably take about 4 hours to fix. The bumpers deteriorate which puts stress on the lid switch and the lid switch breaks. It's tied in the lid down position with a ty-wrap. The bumpers were upgraded. I'm the only one using the washer and I won't put my hand in the washer when it's spinning.

I built the perfect laundry tub lint filter after spending many hours with a left-handed commercial snake. Mine was drill based and right-handed. The clog is always about 25 feet away.Once I realized the tool went CCW, the clog removed quickly. So, the washer chews up the lint and puts it down the drain. it can clog the sink in the process and the drain. The pipes are 1.5" Galvanized and have developed too much friction over 50 or so years. Not really replaceable since it's under the basement cement floor. It went the standard, proof of concept which turned out to be too good and not cleanable. The next design added cleanability or finding the right filter mesh and material. Both of these designs were "hard = a relative term" (loosen a hose clamp) to remove the filter to clean. The last design is "perfect". It uses a really cool clamp collar, but I needed about 10 minutes on a lathe to make it work. I also had to tap a hole. So, it added about $40.00 USD to the design for convenience. The rest is about $80.00 USD and since 3 sources of parts were used about $30.00 was spent on postage.

A friend had a lathe and drill press at the time, so I used them before he sold the business just to make it easy to change the filter. I actually had another easy to change design in mind, but it had advantages and disadvantages in my situation.

==

Since I do PM's on the air conditioning system, I need to remove the covers 2x/year. I want to add 1/4 turn fasteners to the cover. I haven't made the required measurements yet.

I like to make stuff better than it was. My work motto was repairable, modular, re-useable, easy to work on and i don't want to see it again. This was for stuff made for research. Whether mechanical or electronic. I'd analyze the failure and make minor changes usually to fix it. Sometimes it was simple but time consuming. A 15 kV power supply at 1.5A kept breaking. My predecessors would replace a transistor. I replaced four WW resistors and re-did all of the screws that were used for electrical contact and used a threadlocker (Locktite 222). The next failure was totally unrelated - the main circuit breaker failed after 30-35 years.

==

BTW: I am a human rain predictor. I get migraines 0-48 hours before rains starts. I'm basically sensitive to the absolute value of barometric pressure vs, time.

Thanks for the comment. I would love to see one of these dryers but I doubt I ever will. In regards to units of measurement. I use whatever way the ruler is up. I can even use urgs and lorks if you would like to invent them. I am a bit out of date though when it comes to pounds shilling and pence. When I started my engineering apprenticeship in 1961 I took home Two Pounds Eight Shillings and a Penny. I had a Cyclemaster. An engine in the centre of the rear wheel of a bicycle. It was 32CC and 2.2 BHP at some terrible rpm. It had a rotary disc valve and a carburettor that you could just get a pencil down. It did over 200 miles to the gallon. It also had a flywheel that had a habit of coming off. As it was rotating at thousands of revs when it hit the ground it became a lethal projectile that could easily travel a quarter of a mile. Ah the good old days.

I do have a lathe. It's only about a 8 inch swing but it has a very unique construction. Most lathes only have 1 vee on the bed. This one has 4. Two are used for the saddle and two for the tail stock. The bed originally was about 6 feet long but it has obviously been shortened to about 4 feet. It was made about the time of the first world war. It has a back gear and can screw cut. It took me nearly 2 months to get the bed flat by hand. I was able to borrow a 4 foot machined straight edge. The bed had worn over .020" near the chuck. I used the lather to turn it's own new bearings for the headstock. They are half bearings and I packed the old ones out with shimming to tighten them up temporarily. I had to male new oilers and all sorts of bits. It was meant to be driven by line shafting so it's driven by a flat leather belt. We keep the deep fat fryer on it in the garage, stops it rusting.
It's American. Made in the days when both our countries made things to last. Lovely old girl. Painted in British Racing Green, I hope that's OK.

 

I am a bit out of date though when it comes to pounds shilling and pence.
.

I went back for a visit in '72 and felt like foreigner, everything had gone metric.!

When I started my engineering apprenticeship in 1961 I took home Two Pounds Eight Shillings and a Penny. .

Capitalist!

I remember when doing my Electrical apprenticeship and having to wire 'heavy duty' outlets for all the American service families bringing in their power hungry appliances/dryers etc.
Max.

 

A while back I found an archive of Hillbilly electrical magazines - there were adverts for petrol driven washing machines.

Right - who's going to write about a steam driven tumble dryer or washing machine. I bet they made one somewhere.You can't beat real Welsh steam coal, except that I expect the mines are all flooded now. I believe we import coal for steam loco's - and half the county is sitting on millions of tons of the stuff.

 

I do have a lathe.

I rebuilt a 1938 drill press. Converted it to modern ball bearings and built a few parts that had disappeared over the decades. Cast iron! Rather than delude myself into pretending it is portable, I bolted it to a workbench.

It's stiffer than anything you can buy now and you can't see any wobble in a 1 mm drill bit. I am justifiably proud of it.