Is PolyU made form Formic Acid

I'm uncertain as to the manufacturing process -- howbeit the finished product continues to exude formaldehyde and diketopiperazines -- both of which are documented neuro-carcinogens separately -- and synergistically so in combination!
As a general rule, carboxylates are 'bad agents' from a health standpoint (with the notable exception of 'club soda')

On the other hand, while polystyrene (the pink foam boards?) exhibits a low order of toxicity, it is highly flammable!

Best regards
HP

 

Well I stand by the suggestion for plastic on windows, blankets on windows (day & night if possible - cuts down on drafts & heat transfer as well) and a thick comforter spread across the ceiling (opposite of rug) if any of those aren't against codes.

Ever see in the movies interior shots of castles? They always had tapestries hanging on the walls with very little of the stone walls showing. This was not mainly for decoration, but for insulation. To keep drafts and the stones coldness at bay.

 

To keep drafts and the stones coldness at bay.

I know this isn't the "proper" way to say it, but sometimes the walls feel like they are radiating coldness. Living in a cave or a castle seems to require a way to avoid line-of-sight exposure to walls which are at a yearly average temperature. In Florida, it's not too bad at 70 F but Kentucky is in the 50's and Chicago is in the 40's. Save me from Scotland!

 

I know this isn't the "proper" way to say it, but sometimes the walls feel like they are radiating coldness. .............!

Yes, it's the opposite effect you are feeling, of course, the reduced black-body radiation from a cold surface.

 

I'm uncertain as to the manufacturing process -- howbeit the finished product continues to exude formaldehyde

I have doubts about that, as these products have gone through extensive testing to prove otherwise. I understand there is some confusion with urea-formaldehyde, which did exude high levels, but is no longer in widespread use.

On the other hand, while polystyrene (the pink foam boards?) exhibits a low order of toxicity, it is highly flammable!

Not so, as the polystyrene foam insulation board is treated with halogenated agents, which makes it fire retardant. Blue (Dow) and pink (Owens-Corning) rigid foam insulation board are fire-rated, and usually don't require a fire retardant barrier, subject to local codes.

Think about it, would highly flammable insulation material be approved for residential building?

 

I have doubts about that, as these products have gone through extensive testing to prove otherwise. I understand there is some confusion with urea-formaldehyde, which did exude high levels, but is no longer in widespread use.

Thank you! -- I'm pleased to learn standards have improved!

Not so, as the polystyrene foam insulation board is treated with halogenated agents, which makes it fire retardant. Blue (Dow) and pink (Owens-Corning) rigid foam insulation board are fire-rated, and usually don't require a fire retardant barrier, subject to local codes.

---Emphasis added---

Good deal! PBBs? Let's hope these effective fire retardants don't fall prey to the same hysteria as did PCBs

Think about it, would highly flammable insulation material be approved for residential building?

Well... It certainly shouldn't be! -- Again, I'm pleased to learn of the narrowing of the 'gap' between "shouldn't" and "isn't"

Best regards
HP

 

I'm must confess to no little dubiety as regards their reliability in continuous operation as heating elements!...

Best regards
HP

They're on all the time the TV is on - for some people that's all day and most of the night.

The most common 2 element type had the 2nd element directly across the mains to heat the degauss side above its cut off temperature.

With monitors; it became common practice to use a single element on a relay, switched out by the front panel MPU after a short delay - they have a recovery time of about 6 minutes, having it switched out means you can invoke a "recovered" degauss from the settings menu.

A large bank of posistors will by its very nature have a huge turn on surge - a suitably hefty NTC limiting thermistor would save a fortune in fuses.

 

Do you mean the devices commonly marketed as 'Quartz Heaters'? I didn't realize they were still available? -- By all means! They are the best choice from a safety and economy standpoint where radiant heating is desired!

Best regards
HP

Round here they're usually called; "halogen heaters" - they were lined up in rows in a shop I was in the other day.

Apparently the latest best thing since sliced bread is the ceramic heater - I suspect that may be along similar principles to the posistors I mentioned.

 

I also object. There is no reason to suspect a person with no more electronics experience than an average home owner would have a bucket full of posistors and the skills to make them operate safely in free air.

Just a wild guess - but I suspect the latest new thing; ceramic heaters are in some way related to that.

 

They're on all the time the TV is on

I think the correct way to implement this solution is for the Thread Starter to get a big pile of TV's and turn them on in his attic. That would insure the heating circuits are UL approved...not a fire hazard, not a shock hazard.

 

for the Thread Starter to get a big pile of TV's and turn them on in his attic.

Not been seen since Wednesday!
Probabally overcome with cold reading through 110 posts.
Max.

 

They're on all the time the TV is on - for some people that's all day and most of the night.

The most common 2 element type had the 2nd element directly across the mains to heat the degauss side above its cut off temperature.

With monitors; it became common practice to use a single element on a relay, switched out by the front panel MPU after a short delay - they have a recovery time of about 6 minutes, having it switched out means you can invoke a "recovered" degauss from the settings menu.

A large bank of posistors will by its very nature have a huge turn on surge - a suitably hefty NTC limiting thermistor would save a fortune in fuses.

I dunno -- in my experience 'off label' application is always fraught with 'surprises' -- Inasmuch as (almost) any heating device poses a fire hazard (at least) I'd want to see (or conduct) some research prior to recommending such 'non standard' use --- But then perhaps I worry too much

Best regards
HP

 

Yes, it's the opposite effect you are feeling, of course, the reduced black-body radiation from a cold surface.

This fallibility of human perception is probably part of the reason demystifying heat and cold from the old, "caloric" theory was difficult. In this century, I know my walls usually radiate heat. When winter comes, it feels like they are radiating coldness. If I wasn't educated, I would believe that misinterpretation.

Inasmuch as (almost) any heating device poses a fire hazard (at least) I'd want to see (or conduct) some research

Take off the velvet gloves. Besides being impractical, recommending methods or materials likely to produce a serious hazard is against the TOS for this site. The only reason I haven't gone all "Moderator" on ian_field is that he has earned some respect here.

@Little Ghostman Look at me exercising discretion. I'm treating a well known member differently than I would treat a rank amateur dispensing what I believe is bad advice. It's a judgement call. Sometimes, it's the right thing to do.

 

Take off the velvet gloves.

I've heard that 'mantra' before! -- You been talkin' to @Aleph(0) ???

 

I've heard that 'mantra' before! -- You been talkin' to @Aleph(0) ???

You know I learned that phrase in our PM's.

 

I think the correct way to implement this solution is for the Thread Starter to get a big pile of TV's and turn them on in his attic. That would insure the heating circuits are UL approved...not a fire hazard, not a shock hazard.

Our very first CTV was a Philips G6 hybrid chassis running at 400W!

The only horizontal output regulation was a dirty great 25kV shunt triode across the EHT output.

We just about managed to get hold of an all solid state set in time for the hot summer months.

Back in those days, they ran 2 horizontal output transistors in series to make up the voltage rating - it was loads of fun adjusting the differential choke to give both transistors identical drive.

 

I dunno -- in my experience 'off label' application is always fraught with 'surprises' -- Inasmuch as (almost) any heating device poses a fire hazard (at least) I'd want to see (or conduct) some research prior to recommending such 'non standard' use --- But then perhaps I worry too much

Best regards
HP

The normally packaged degauss units pose no greater fire hazard than most other components, they're even less dangerous than power resistors because they self regulate at their design knee temperature.

The biggest opportunity for disaster is in how the TS might go about wiring it all up.

I suspect the latest thing; ceramic heaters work along the same lines - the prices tumbled on halogen heaters very quickly, the same may happen with ceramic.

 

The normally packaged degauss units pose no greater fire hazard than most other components, they're even less dangerous than power resistors because they self regulate at their design knee temperature.

I don't doubt that they meet the applicable safety standards used as labeled! -- My point is that off label application (of anything) is often met with unexpected conditions/consequences --- Moreover, as a practical matter, the number of devices required would not compare favorably with a commercial unit from an economic standpoint...

I suspect the latest thing; ceramic heaters work along the same lines

I really don't know -- However, assuming you are correct, the devices used in the heaters will have been tested and certified for said application! -- Moreover, such a heater would very likely 'come lower' than a dubious array of CRT degaussing posistors...

Best regards
HP

 

Cripes if anyone is looking for a self regulating heating device there are loads of self regulating heat tapes out there that are for the most part burnout proof.

We use them around the farm on all of dads automatic stock waterers now and as far as I know he usually leaves them turned on year round being they tend to drop their output wattages so low at summer time temps they are virtually turned off on their own.

The ones we use are typically in the 5 - 6 watt per foot rating and you can stuff a whole 100' roll in a plastic bucket while plugged in and it still won't get hot enough to do any harm to itself or the bucket.

 

if anyone is looking for a self regulating heating device there are loads of self regulating heat tapes out there that are for the most part burnout proof.

Far more convenient and safe that trying to buy and solder together 500 PTC resistors!