Hi,there was a power outage at our house the other day when it came on our freezer didn't power up.There is power coming to the board but it is not working.I have to wait at least two weeks to get a replacement board.Have done electrics but my knowledge of electronics is minimal.If it was a power surge that damaged the board is there any protection which would be built into the board and could be replaced or does the board just get fried.Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.View attachment 173166

 

Hi,there was a power outage at our house the other day when it came on our freezer didn't power up./QUOTE]

The photo is just not clear enough to be helpful. Closer, and better focus is needed.

 

Another pic.

 

Hi Yakoov,is that picture close enough?

 

Hi Yakoov,is that picture close enough?

It’s surely better. Is this diode broken at the end opposite the band?

 

That diode D1 tested 0.6 and OL.
D3 there is a crack and the diode test showed 1.8 and 0.4

 

On the diode is written MUR 120 0409.

 

That diode D1 tested 0.6 and OL.
D3 there is a crack and the diode test showed 1.8 and 0.4View attachment 173171

You said power is getting to the board, does it get to that diode and not get past?

 

Is this capacitor swollen?

 

Is this capacitor swollen?

View attachment 173172

I am getting 237v both sides of the diode so power getting through.The diode is not swollen.

 

I am getting 237v both sides of the diode so power getting through.The diode is not swollen.

I assume you mean capacitor.
Is the diode physically separated? If you try, does it divide at the crack?

 

There seems to be a blue lozenge shaped part adjacent to C14. The label seems to say Vxxx? Could that blue lozenge be a transient voltage supressor of some kind? ... Had one if those take out a garage door opener after a near-lightening strike ... just replaced the whole board though. ... It might be interesting to see if there is power on both terminals of the blue capsule looking part.

 

I assume you mean capacitor.
Is the diode physically separated? If you try, does it divide at the crack?

Sorry did mean capacitor.The diode does not separate.

 

Barring obvious "skid marks" (burnt comments, you'll need to trace the circuit and find where things stop working. drawing a schematic to help you follow signal flow from the power input to where it fails.

 

close view of component beside C14 .Voltage at one leg is 237v the other leg is 0.18 v.

 

... varistor?

 

Sorry did mean capacitor.The diode does not separate.

I just want to be sure we don't miss this - that cap looks suspicious from the top view but of course it's hard to tell. Even a slight bulge would be cause for replacement. Hell, random replacement of all the electrolytic caps isn't a bad idea. I know it sounds crazy but sooooo many board failures are due to failed capacitors. Caps can fail on ESR with no visual clue. Just replacing them is likely to extend the life of the board and it saves a lot of diagnostic time.

 

... varistor?

Yup. One of these:
https://www.elpro.org/gb/varistors-by-epcos/32477-s-05-k-275.html

 

close view of component beside C14 .Voltage at one leg is 237v the other leg is 0.18 v.View attachment 173177

That's a MOV, a Metallic Oxide Varistor, to protect from lone spikes. It's resistance changes with the load. They are hard to break but it could be bad.

 

close view of component beside C14 .Voltage at one leg is 237v the other leg is 0.18 v.

I'm pretty sure that means it's still good. When they clamp, they short and sacrifice themselves.