I am going to amend my 4013 output to your recommendation.You can do something like this to increase current gain.
I'm using 1N4004, it's what I have.
I'll try things on a breadboard at some point.
TONY
I am going to amend my 4013 output to your recommendation.You can do something like this to increase current gain.
If the cap slows the rising edge of the clock pulse too much the 4013 will not trigger reliably.
I'm using 1N4004, it's what I have.I'm afraid you don't.
And there's the old saw "We've always done it that way".
If the cap is going to be used for switch debouncing(I don't know what your final circuit will be, but the one in post #97 won't provide switch debounce) it will take some time to charge up via the pull-up resistor. Make sure that doesn't adversely affect the clock pulse leading edge. The clock input should change almost immediately, not slowly. The maximum rise time when the supply voltage is 5V is specified as being only 15 microseconds.If it was for me, I do not understand
@dl324 ... did you mean a 2n3904 transistor. NOT a 2n3094? ... The 2n3904 worked.You can do something like this to increase current gain:
View attachment 101410
EDIT: R1 should be 200 ohms. Or you can connect as a Darlington if the relay will tolerate the reduced voltage.
Are you referring to his drawing in post #73?Maybe I'm thick, but I don't see why you need all this complication.
It seems that the simple circuit that hp1729 posted should work if all you want to do is turn a relay on and off. The "latching" is done with one SPST switch.
What am I missing?
The rising edge of the clock pulse is ~30uS using your circuit. That is outside the 10uS spec, so clocking may be unreliable.Do you guys have ideas to resolve this issue?
Alec ... seems you are saying this circuit will have to be activated by a 12v trigger ... instead of a ground trigger. Correct? ... this will offer consistent power on state and no denounce?The clocking is modified to shorten the rise time. C2/R3 ensure the Set input now starts high at power-up to give a consistent initial state.
Okay, let me try the question again. If you just want to turn on a relay and some lights, why won't the simple PNP circuit do what you want?
I slightly modified the earlier one to include an LED (see schematic).
Your 12v incandescent lights can go across the relay coil, or be driven off the relay contacts.
Is there some reason you want to use push-buttons instead of a SPST toggle switch?
@Alec_t ... Thanks for this latest. I have to get more resistors to try it on my breadboard. ... I did attempt to take your previous drawing and add a PNP to convert it to Ground pulse. It mostly worked on my breadboard. Didn't always trigger the 4013 and seemed to bounce too. See attached. ... I post my findings on your latest. Thank you so much for the help.My circuit above shows that, but could be modified if you really must have a ground trigger. Here you go.
Yes. The two latches can share the power-up arrangement.Do I only need C2/R6?
No. But I note you have R4 and R9 =100k, whereas I have R1=100 Ohms. The 100k in that position would result in less reliable triggering.Does your SIM have the same results?
Great!Yes. The two latches can share the power-up arrangement.
Yep. My mistake! I did do the modification you mentioned, see attached.No. But I note you have R4 and R9 =100k, whereas I have R1=100 Ohms. The 100k in that position would result in less reliable triggering
What is "too quickly"? The debounce capacitor has to stay charged long enough that switch bounces can die out, but has to be given time to charge and discharge between successive triggers. In my sim I think that was about 50mS in total.If I toggled to quickly. It didn't respond.
by Jake Hertz
by Duane Benson
by Duane Benson