Convert this circuit to MosFETs

Thread Starter

stillgrowingup

Joined Jul 15, 2015
219
Hi all,

I received my parts today and did a bread board test. It WORKED ....THANK YOU CRUTSCHOW!!!!!!

Referencing crutschow drawing in post #28. ... I had to change the value of R1 to 135k. This was the lowest value that allowed for all the mosfets to turn on.

I was also able to increase the LED resistance to 4k.

I do have a problem with the LED that is triggered by the BD139. Having the led connect to Q1 Q2 trigger shuts down the whole circuit. Is it possible to have an LED work off the BD139 AND still trigger the Q1 and Q2?

Tony
 

crutschow

Joined Mar 14, 2008
38,526
I don't understand why you had to increase the value of R1 and why you are having a problem with the LED controlled by BD139. :confused:
Something would seem to be wrong with your circuit build.
Are you sure you have the correct resistor value in series with LED1?
What is the voltage across R4 (not to ground) when BD139 is ON and the MOSFETs are ON?
 

Thread Starter

stillgrowingup

Joined Jul 15, 2015
219
Hi Crutschow

I have double checked my breadboard with your circuit. I find NO mistakes.
Using ScottWang drawing in Post #38 of the complete circuit as reference. I will answer your questions.

I don't understand why you had to increase the value of R1
When circuit built as originally drawn (R1=10K). Mosfets were active WITHOUT triggers present. By increasing R1 value to 135K ohms, I was able to get circuit to turn on and off by triggering BD139.
With R1=47k ohms, only mosfets Q4 and Q5 became active.
With R1=100k ohms, mosfets Q4 and Q5 were active, but Q2 and Q3 slowly became active. it took a few seconds for Q2 and Q3 to turn on.
With R1=135K ohms, All Mosfets came on when Q1 BD139 was triggered.
Bypassing Q1 BD139 and triggered circuit by straight GND (Key = D) also did NOT work properly till R1=135K ohms.
Left and Right 12v Turn inputs always worked when R1=10k.

and why you are having a problem with the LED controlled by BD139
Breadboard testing showed me I could increase LED resistor values to 4k ohms illuminate the LEDs.
With R7 in place, circuit was dead when triggered by Q1 BD139. If triggered circuit by straight GND (Key = D), Circuit was active and all LEDs illuminated.

Are you sure you have the correct resistor value in series with LED1?
I tried replacing R7 value with 1K,2.7K, 3.3K and 4K ohm resistors. Having R7 in the circuit for LED1 caused the whole circuit to NOT to work. But as I mentioned earlier. Triggering by straight GND (Key=D), circuit and LEDs were active. Weird, I know.


What is the voltage across R4 (not to ground) when BD139 is ON and the MOSFETs are ON?
When I measure voltage on both sides of the R4, circuit active by triggering BD139. My metered should me .294V

I am at a lost.

TONY

UPDATE .... Q1 BD139 was bad. Swap in new BD139 all is good. Voltage reading across R4 is now .400 ... Reduced R1 value to original 10k. IT'S WORKING!!!!!! .... I will leave circuit active on breadboard to test component durability. THANK YOU CRUTSCHOW!!!!!!

TONY
 
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crutschow

Joined Mar 14, 2008
38,526
.................
UPDATE .... Q1 BD139 was bad. Swap in new BD139 all is good. Voltage reading across R4 is now .400 ... Reduced R1 value to original 10k. IT'S WORKING!!!!!! .... I will leave circuit active on breadboard to test component durability. ...........
Well I won't have expected a bad transistor that appeared to be partially working (or had high leakage) so that is interesting.
Glad it all works now as planned. :D
 

Thread Starter

stillgrowingup

Joined Jul 15, 2015
219
Let us know how it works when you get it installed in you vehicle.
@crutschow ... It works like a charm!!! Thank you so much. I also had to replace the mechanical Flasher in the car with a electronic flasher. After leaving the unit active for 30 mins, I used a handheld laser Temperature reader and found that the hottest the Mosfets are getting, is 110F :)

Thank you!
Thank you!

TONY
 
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