Thanks ScottWang. Your drawing correct to me. and better layout too!I redraw the circuit for #36, I hope not miss any components.
Thanks
TONY
Thanks ScottWang. Your drawing correct to me. and better layout too!I redraw the circuit for #36, I hope not miss any components.
When circuit built as originally drawn (R1=10K). Mosfets were active WITHOUT triggers present. By increasing R1 value to 135K ohms, I was able to get circuit to turn on and off by triggering BD139.I don't understand why you had to increase the value of R1
Breadboard testing showed me I could increase LED resistor values to 4k ohms illuminate the LEDs.and why you are having a problem with the LED controlled by BD139
I tried replacing R7 value with 1K,2.7K, 3.3K and 4K ohm resistors. Having R7 in the circuit for LED1 caused the whole circuit to NOT to work. But as I mentioned earlier. Triggering by straight GND (Key=D), circuit and LEDs were active. Weird, I know.Are you sure you have the correct resistor value in series with LED1?
When I measure voltage on both sides of the R4, circuit active by triggering BD139. My metered should me .294VWhat is the voltage across R4 (not to ground) when BD139 is ON and the MOSFETs are ON?
Well I won't have expected a bad transistor that appeared to be partially working (or had high leakage) so that is interesting..................
UPDATE .... Q1 BD139 was bad. Swap in new BD139 all is good. Voltage reading across R4 is now .400 ... Reduced R1 value to original 10k. IT'S WORKING!!!!!! .... I will leave circuit active on breadboard to test component durability. ...........
@crutschow ... It works like a charm!!! Thank you so much. I also had to replace the mechanical Flasher in the car with a electronic flasher. After leaving the unit active for 30 mins, I used a handheld laser Temperature reader and found that the hottest the Mosfets are getting, is 110FLet us know how it works when you get it installed in you vehicle.
Glad to hear that.It works like a charm!!!