There are plenty of good tutorials for using EasyEDA in internet-land. This one is all cued up for you to the right spot. It's not that difficult after all the hard work has been done for you.

 

Thanks. As I see it I have to
1) add vertical/straighth power jack and make connections.
2) add 4 or 6 terminals and make connections
3) define boardsize (max height 1")
4) Fix position of button, power jack and terminals.
5) arrange remaining components
Maybe redo 3-5).

I wish I knew the part no. of the power jack and the terminals.

 

5) auto arrange (?) remaining components
Maybe redo 3-5).

Auto arrange? Ha. Ha. Ha.

You really should watch the tutorial.

 

I wish. Just replaced auto arrange with arrange

 

Have to find a DC power female mount jack, vertcal/straight and max 8 mm. high for SMD amongst these, http://email.lcsc.com/c/eJw0zMFqxCA...q3L2ud2vtR5B2KqoVV68ynIP1zxFf5b_4CAAD__6yGO4U

 

What is the output voltage and current of the power supply you're going to use? The barrel jack has to be rated for this load. Jacks rated for more than 5 amps seem to be scarce.

Are you planning on the jack going through the metal trim in the same direction as the switch? If so, you want a through-hole straight jack. Horizontal (usually) means the jack, switch, whatever, is at 90° to the surface of the board. Straight or vertical means perpendicular to the surface of the board.

Mouser lists a straight through-hole jack jack rated for 11 amps – it's a Switchcraft part but they only have 30 in stock. It looks like it may be obsolete since you have to dig to find it on Swichcraft's web site. (Sorry, I don't recall the part number and I'm running late for an appointment. )

You may not need that high of current rating as discussed in the first paragraph.

 

What is the output voltage and current of the power supply you're going to use? The barrel jack has to be rated for this load. Jacks rated for more than 5 amps seem to be scarce.

Are you planning on the jack going through the metal trim in the same direction as the switch? If so, you want a through-hole straight jack. Horizontal (usually) means the jack, switch, whatever, is at 90° to the surface of the board. Straight or vertical means perpendicular to the surface of the board.

Mouser lists a straight through-hole jack jack rated for 11 amps – it's a Switchcraft part but they only have 30 in stock. It looks like it may be obsolete since you have to dig to find it on Swichcraft's web site. (Sorry, I don't recall the part number and I'm running late for an appointment. )

You may not need that high of current rating as discussed in the first paragraph.

Yes, same as switch (possibly through-hole in print if too long). Adapter 24v 5a jack 2.5*5.5
I wish GPT-4 could auto arrange the remaining parts (maybe next version)

 

I really do write this stuff for a reason.....

Are you planning on the jack going through the metal trim in the same direction as the switch? If so, you want a through-hole straight jack. Horizontal (usually) means the jack, switch, whatever, is at 90° to the surface of the board. Straight or vertical means perpendicular to the surface of the board.

 

I just mean jack is going through the metal trim in the same direction as the switch. My bad, straight or vertical is correct

 

Screw terminals should be mounted in the end of the board. If the board is 1" wide, the button and jack should be mounted at 1/2".

 

Crap, my idea to mount the power jack won't work. The jacks are much longer than I remembered. The jack would project past the trim by 11mm. The fun problems to solve in product design.

PCL712A PCL722A_CD (switchcraft.com)

 

What about keeping it super simple and let the whole jack go through the print board ? Part DC022B (5.5*2.5) Ø 8mm. Legs bend outwards.

 

That sort of works, but the jack won't be flush with the face of the metal trim. It will protrude out from the surface.

The green line in the picture is the printed circuit board, which would be adhered to back of the 8mm thick trim. The purple line is the outer face of the trim.

The switch, with the face of the button at an elevation of 8.2mm above the circuit board is just about perfect for this scheme to work, sticking out just a bit beyond the surface of the trim. The jack however will protrude 4mm past the surface of the metal trim. This isn't horrible and is what I had in mind when I suggested this arrangement.

BUT, and this is a big BUT, this power jack is only rated for 3 amps. Your power supply is rated for 5 amps. Sure this will work. For a time. Until somebody has the volume cranked up and the light are on, drawing everything the power supply can put out. Eventually, the jack will fail. It probably won't burst into flames, but at some point it will crumble when somebody plugs the power supply in.

The jack has to be rated for the current and voltage of the power supply or at least for the expected current draw.

 

This is your project, not mine. You are free to design it as you like and free to decide what's "good enough." I've offered some suggestions and tried to give you some guidance. I'm not trying to be negative, just trying help you make something that will work well.

 

Thanks, but does there exist a vertical, straight DC power jack 5A that is 9.6 mm. ?

 

*shrug*.There could be.

 

This Switchcraft jack could work. Read the notes on the drawing. Every word is there for a reason.

● There may be shorter power jacks available. Please search if you like.

● I suggest a plastic sleeve to fill the gap around the jack. No, I cannot suggest anything in particular. No, I do not know the dimensions needed.

● The D-hole through the circuit board is critical. Don't be lazy in this detail.


This is the end of my free advice. Not my circus, not my monkeys. I take no responsibility and make no guarantees for anything I have suggested. The details and suitability your responsibility. The free help level has been far exceeded.

 

This Switchcraft jack could work. Read the notes on the drawing. Every word is there for a reason.

● There may be shorter power jacks available. Please search if you like.

● I suggest a plastic sleeve to fill the gap around the jack. No, I cannot suggest anything in particular. No, I do not know the dimensions needed.

● The D-hole through the circuit board is critical. Don't be lazy in this detail.


This is the end of my free advice. Not my circus, not my monkeys. I take no responsibility and make no guarantees for anything I have suggested. The details and suitability your responsibility. The free help level has been far exceeded.

View attachment 290711

Searched everywhere, but you are right L721A is best because of the long nut. Maybe ECLyxun DC-025 with 9mm nut, but I can't find the specs.

 

There's one more detail you need to figure out - how to get the connections off the board. Remember that pins can't stick out the back of the pcb, as it needs to be flush with the surface of the trim metal. This limits the options, and JLC doesn't have many options. A 0.1" pitch dual row header connector seems like the best available option. But each pin is limited to 3A so pins need to be doubled up.

The picture shows the header options (3 possibilities), and how the connections should be made. A mating cable can be made or purchased. Each connection will consist of two adjacent wires.

This type of header is also available as a "box header" with a plastic housing - this type keys the mating connector to prevent connection mistakes.

 

You read my mind. If the switch board is the assembly point, there will be 3 x 2(4) pin connectors, the BT amp conn (long cable), the BMS conn and the LED strip conn (short cables). The LED strip conn could maybe be just 2 pin. I think it would be best if the connector is placed at the end of the board (bottom of drawing in #237). Naturally you should always be able to charge the batteries through the BMS, even if the speaker is playing.

If the DC-025 (9mm) jack is slightly better than the L721A, it will require a full Ø8 mm hole (I have requested the datasheet). If possible the board size should be 64 x 25 mm (2.5 x 1")