I think there's a few of us keeping a watching brief and waiting for you to say "HOORAY! It's working exactly as I want it to!"

 

And I'm still waiting to say, "I told you so!

Hahahaha. I knew I shouldn't have taken the bait.

Oh believe me I have the PDFs, and there are many more in Google searches on the subject. And none of them are being done like what you're trying. And to compare the noise of a common old school pick and place to one using a working tubular linear motor is like comparing apples to orangutans. Not even oranges.

Just can't understand why so many of your supporters aren't willing to look at how it is really being done. Even guys that have done motor control for years, but never have used this type of motor. Or seen one in a machine, there is so much online about this type of motor, and none matches what has been said by others.

 

Ben Varvil
You should visit this thread

EDM - Electrical discharge machine
and harass Shortbus about spending hours and hours and hours and hours drilling holes with sparks.

 

Na I did't leave I just been busy hooking up stuff i know nothing about after 40 years funny thing is it works LOL.
You are using wrong bit to make pcb you milled all the copper track out
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titani...=1532567482&sr=8-14&keywords=pcb+milling+bits

Ordered. Thank you.

 

Ben Varvil
You should visit this thread

EDM - Electrical discharge machine
and harass Shortbus about spending hours and hours and hours and hours drilling holes with sparks.

HAA! Oh, how the tables have turned....
Kidding. I'm a terrible heckler and I wouldn't even know where to begin. That project is leagues above my level of understanding.
Good to see that we're all working on projects though.

 

And I'm still waiting to say, "I told you so!

False.

So I'll say it now, "told you so".

Ok, back to work...

 

Just think about one thing.
It's all about timing you move say right you fire a coil you have to turn that coil off so the next fires so on and so on or you end up with the rod just moving and then stopping or just even jerking

To over come that you only need to no it moved and how much it needs to move before the next coil pulls how you find point A to point B is up to you.
Hall's ir led and photo transistor
You could even read the current.

Or even just play with the code till it moves all the way right and figure out how long it takes from that to get the outcome you want.

 

Or even just play with the code till it moves all the way right and figure out how long it takes from that to get the outcome you want.

That is the first thing I've seen that matches the way people are doing this, in both manufactured LMs and in patents and thesis.

 

If you run out of ideas, research coil guns, you are just shooting the barrel.

 

If you run out of ideas, research coil guns, you are just shooting the barrel.

So far he doesn't really want to do any type of research, or even think about any thing that doesn't match him and those that tell him he's on the right track. Sad as that may sound.

 

coil gun
Let's not call this a coil gun

Restricted topics. The following topics are regularly raised however are considered "off-topic" at all times and will result in Your thread being closed without question:

• Any kind of over-unity devices and systems
• Devices designed to electrocute or shock another person
• LEDs to mains
• Any kind of jammers (ie - Phone jammers)
• Rail guns and high-energy projectile devices
• Transformer-less power supplies

 

I did not say it was a coil gun, just that many features are similar & might give some hints.
I kicked a golf ball 35 ft. with a solenoid, is this a coil gun?

 

It's just a motor, like most others....but with this one you can vary axial displacement along with radial displacement.

One might give it radial velocity first.....then apply the axial.

 

Here' s the structure to hold the hall sensors, the indicator LEDs and the biasing magnets:



The research supporting this design decision is posted in #309

Here is the latest attempt at engraving the associated circuit board. I stopped after the first isolation route to inspect. The new engraving tips, thanks Be80be, are clearly a better tool choice. It seems I still have a lot of work to do related to flattening the cut platform and to setting trace widths.



The hall sensors are proving to be unreliable. I'm using a low sensitivity model now. I've ordered high sensitivity ones. If I'm unable to reliably detect the position of the steel slugs using halls, I'll have to go down the route of detecting rings of white tape. A zebra stick is not the aesthetic I'm going for.

 

The hall sensors are proving to be unreliable.

Are you using permanent magnets to bias them?

 

Are you using permanent magnets to bias them?

Yes

 

The high sensitivity hall sensors I mentioned earlier don't arrive until mid October. I found an immediate supply of these instead.

 

While your waiting for your Halls, some reading . If you find these interesting I have more.

 

Much thicker traces, double sided tape and a couple of engraving bits later...

My first circuit board. It's fun assembling everything once the board is cut. I didn't expect that.

 

I usually try to keep all of my traces on one side of the board and use jumper wires as needed for the few remaining traces on the flip side. Then it is just a single sided board.

Your tip was a huge help. Thank you.