
Excellent reference, DNA. These links you've posted come in handy for a project that I'm currently working on ... thanks for sharing!Maybe this will help with drawing #2
View attachment 158569
There is a good explanation here
Part 1: How to Model a Linear Electromagnetic Plunger | COMSOL Blog
https://www.comsol.com/blogs/part-1-how-to-model-a-linear-electromagnetic-plunger/
That is because neither of the examples you give has any iron or back iron in the coil. So your not getting the full use of any magnetism your making with the coil. In both the solenoid or your coils your only using a slight amount of the magnetism, look at an illustration of a magnetic field of an electrical coil.of a solenoid support the idea that at least half (2/3rds is better) of the metal should be within the coil if energizing it is to create usable force. Starting from rest, in the position as drawn, I don't believe this design moves.
That is how all switched reluctance motors work.Starting from rest, in the position as drawn, I don't believe this design moves. Perhaps if another set of coils, half step out of phase is used, those can help get the mover started, enabling B or C of the coils shown to do work.
Yes. This helps. I was confused because, a while back, I went full "zero metal in the system" after hearing:Maybe this will help with drawing #2
View attachment 158569
There is a good explanation here
Part 1: How to Model a Linear Electromagnetic Plunger | COMSOL Blog
https://www.comsol.com/blogs/part-1-how-to-model-a-linear-electromagnetic-plunger/
Now I'm seeing that if you have ALL metal (back iron style), it is good. Interesting how a little metal just creates eddy currents, but if everything is metal, it helps...Two things I'll throw out for good measure:
1) Use a brass threaded rod, to avoid magnetic effects in your support structure for the cores.
2) Avoid using metallic components in your coil bobbins- even if they are non-magnetic.
They end up looking like "shorted turns" in your coil, which will absorb energy (eddy currents) during switching- in a way you do not want.
You can use these materials if you "gap" the metal so current cannot flow around in a loop.
I appreciate the clarification. It still doesn't change what I (and CMartinez) have observed. If the slug isn't in the coil, it doesn't move when the coil is activated. After all the enlightening discussion about back iron and about using metal to help keep the magnetic field strong, I now understand that if there were metal all around the coil, the coil's magnetic field would likely have enough strength to pull a steel slug resting just outside. Since I went the route of eliminating all metal around the coil, I need the slugs inside the coils to start.That is how all switched reluctance motors work.
Now imagine that motor laid out instead of in a circle. Look at figure 4 in this link it shows an out runner type motor but they are just an inside out type of motor. The rotor is outside and the stator/coils inside. https://www.emworks.com/application/switched-reluctance-motor-for-electric-vehicles![]()
That is only on a pulling solenoid. And it is because of the fact there is no iron to center/concentrate the magnetism. Also in a solenoid you need the slug inside the coil to direct the movement, by that I mean there isn't any support to "make" the rod go into the coil. That isn't the case in what your doing. Try putting a small chunk of steel on a hot wheels car and put the solenoid coil close but not in the coil. You will be able to move the coil and the hot wheels will go where you move the coil.It still doesn't change what I (and CMartinez) have observed. If the slug isn't in the coil, it doesn't move when the coil is activated.

Hi Bernard. This work is amazing. Thank you. I look forward to digging in.View attachment 158876 This might clarify or gum it up. Used last inverter-driver to give better drive to reflective sensor. The .1 uF & 10k timing should be just less than slugs transit time thru coil 1.