Hi All, I'll start very simply and see where it leads. This control board has an LED which is not lit. I've not been able to find out if that is a solid indication that the entire board (chips, etc) is junk or only the LED has failed - I'm trying to perform other tests on the system but I'm assuming all would be for naught if this board is not operational.

I also cannot find out how critical this board is in activating the ice harvest cycle, i.e. can I test the ice maker assembly independent of this circuit so long as I have the power continuity from it? E.g. then perform the T-H jump start to test the rest of the system. What I do know: water inlet valve OK, thermostat OK, ice maker motor OK, ice maker heater OK, water pressure OK, temperature OK. Original problem was ice maker would not fill (water dispenser fine) - thought it was frozen line but eliminated that problem (now set at 5 degrees). Other info but I'll see what this gets me.

Many thanks for any.

 

... There should be a solenoid activated water valve that allows water to fill the ice mold. This is a part that is often the cause of the 'no fill' condition, since it is activated frequently. Could this be the prohlem that you describe? It should be located at the lower, rear of the appliance, behind a panel of some sort. ... easy to replace, if you think that might be it.... Or is that the water valve mentioned above?

 

... There should be a solenoid activated water valve that allows water to fill the ice mold. This is a part that is often the cause of the 'no fill' condition, since it is activated frequently. Could this be the prohlem that you describe? It should be located at the lower, rear of the appliance, behind a panel of some sort. ... easy to replace, if you think that might be it.... Or is that the water valve mentioned above?

Hi, thanks for the reply. Yes, the "solenoid activated water inlet valve" is what I was talking about. It is a single valve assembly that also supplies the water dispenser, which works just fine, so the valve itself is not the problem - the problem is with which ever component controls turning it on and off from the ice maker (which should be for 7 seconds of fill). I pulled the valve off and bench tested it - it was fine. I also independently powered it on the fridge with the fridge water supply and it pumped like a firehose (as low water pressure can prevent the valve from fully closing and cause line freeze-up from the slowing seeping water.)

I wasn't going to get into this part as things get complicated, but twice, after thoroughly warming the side-by-side door (as that is where the ice maker and water line is located) the ice maker did "fill" automatically overnight. Unfortunately it "filled" with about 32 ounces of water instead of the 4 ounces it calls for, which froze all over the inside of the freezer door and also spilled out ruining my hardwood floor. Obviously a circuit did turn it on but failed to turn it off at the proper time. I've checked the mechanical cam-driven timing mechanism on the side/inside of the ice maker and that operates fine, again with an independent power source. The problem seems to be with "circuit timing" if that makes any sense, hence my thinking of the microchip driven control board as the culprit.

 

... other than thoroughly cleaning the related electrical contacts, can't guess what to do next. ... Would probably resort to purchasing a new icemaker unit.

 

... other than thoroughly cleaning the related electrical contacts, can't guess what to do next. ... Would probably resort to purchasing a new icemaker unit.

Already there my friend. One Sears rep was desperate enough to offer me a very good deal on the 2 boards so I eventually took it. (So good that when I called back to order them the new rep didn't believe it - $108.42 instead of $338.80). Luckily it was a "chat" and I saved the transcript, otherwise they wouldn't have given me that price. They promised it would arrive on 4/9 - tracking now says 4/13. Hoping the receiver board is the problem so I can return the emitter board for $60 . If so, repair price is getting very reasonable if after a lot of grief, though no guarantees here. Thanks for responding.

 

... other than thoroughly cleaning the related electrical contacts, can't guess what to do next. ... Would probably resort to purchasing a new ice maker unit.

Hello again, You were helpful last week so thought I'd try a follow-up question. I got my 2 new boards and installed them... no change.
In the fridge kick plate I found 2 folded technicians service sheets (not quite schematics). One was dedicated to the icemaker so I have a lot more info than I did. Tells you how to perform many diagnostics. Two questions if I may:

- In running the voltage/resistance tests for the thermostat, motor, ice maker heater, water valve, etc. I discovered something pretty major - I am getting NO current to the icemaker at all. I tested the ice maker assembly with the freezer door switch open/closed and got nothing. I then tested the line harness itself where it emerges from the back of the freezer door wall and get 0 Volts. My new receiver control board's LED still does not light up. It seem to me that all my components may be fine, but I'm getting no power to the unit (thirty years ago I would have said I must have blown and internal fuse somewhere). Any idea why/where I wouldn't be getting power to the ice maker but get it everywhere else in the door (water dispenser, ice crusher, door lights, etc.)?

- The instructions I found reference to a "5 switch UI" (user interface) which the technician needs to refer to when performing diagnostics. Would you happen to know what that is? When searching on-line the only UI references I get deal with the "on-door" dispenser panel (touch screen controls) for temperature, amount of water dispensed, water/cubes/crushed, "replace filter", etc.but no diagnostic codes (pricey built in fridges do have Dx modes). So I'm wondering if this "5 switch UI" device is a service techs tool (like a car's plug in code reader analyzer). It doesn't say that anywhere on the instructions, but it just may be a given for tech.

As always many thanks for any thoughts.

 

... not completely understanding the freezer power distribution. Check to see if there is a plug/socket connection someplace that has become defective. On one occasion, ice or frozen condensate had blocked a plug inside the freezer, so that the ice maker unit was not receiving power even though it appeared to be plugged in.
... try using electrical contact cleaner spray on any questionable plug or socket.

 

... not completely understanding the freezer power distribution. Check to see if there is a plug/socket connection someplace that has become defective. On one occasion, ice or frozen condensate had blocked a plug inside the freezer, so that the ice maker unit was not receiving power even though it appeared to be plugged in.
... try using electrical contact cleaner spray on any questionable plug or socket.

Hey, thanks again for some sensible options. Since I posted I've done some more research and others, like you, have cited possible switch and/or plug-socket problems. I have contact cleaner and I will check these next for cleanliness/ice build-up and continuity.

 

... not completely understanding the freezer power distribution. Check to see if there is a plug/socket connection someplace that has become defective. On one occasion, ice or frozen condensate had blocked a plug inside the freezer, so that the ice maker unit was not receiving power even though it appeared to be plugged in.
... try using electrical contact cleaner spray on any questionable plug or socket.

Still out there dcr_567? (or any one else) Didn't find connection problems, and power input to the maker is an issue, but I have yet another question (though having real trouble believing all of these different components have failed at the same time).

Do you have any understanding of the workings of the heater coil in the ice maker? In tracking continuity I've now found that I have ZERO continuity between the coil itself and EITHER of the 2 coil terminals that plug into the module (tested warm and frozen). The terminals are thin contacts that are "fixed" ("glued") into the 2 ends of the coil itself, and I can't imagine what it is that has failed in these 2 connections that will not allow for any electrical conduction. For what it's worth, I got a 68 ohm reading BETWEEN the 2 terminals - how can you possibly get some connectivity between 2 terminals floating in air but 0 between them and the only things they're connected to (the coil itself)? This is getting bizarre.

 

https://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/09/05/whirlpool-built-modular-icemaker-wiring-diagram-and-test-points/

Is this ice maker circuit diagram anything like yours?

 

https://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/09/05/whirlpool-built-modular-icemaker-wiring-diagram-and-test-points/

Is this ice maker circuit diagram anything like yours?

You must live on-line.
While I've yet to be able to come up with an actual circuit diagram the way you have (Sears will not release them I was told though this is a Whirlpool device), I've come to know my unit extremely well and from what I see it is identical to the schematic you provided (not knowing the actual values of course). (When I've researched other repair sites the info I usually see involves ice makers with mechanical arms to the control board.) Mine is all electronic (not that that matters in testing the module itself).

I see that there should be 72 ohms in the heater circuit (that has to be what I'm reading "68" between the terminals), but there is no visible mechanical connection between the 2 terminals other than through the coil itself... which reads that there is no conductivity. I just can't see how the 2 terminals are talking to each other at all when their only connection is a dead zone - the coil itself.
While each piece seems simple enough I must be out of my league if this is baffling me.

Many thanks for the schematic, which gives me yet another piece of the puzzle.

 

... It seems that the entire unit is powered by an AC connection coming through the water valve solenoid. So, you may want to test the black and white wires at that location to verify that you have power up to that point. Then it may be possible to identify those same black and white wires wherever they come out at the icemaker.
... careful with the AC wires.

 

... It seems that the entire unit is powered by an AC connection coming through the water valve solenoid. So, you may want to test the black and white wires at that location to verify that you have power up to that point. Then it may be possible to identify those same black and white wires wherever they come out at the icemaker.
... careful with the AC wires.

Hi again. Not sure how but I lost this site connection ;and never saw your reply. Thanks again.
Since last... the power issue has been resolved - can't say exactly how. I ordered a new control board ($250 and 3 weeks). When installed the power to the harness was fine - I then put the old control board back in and it's still fine. I've swapped them out 6-7 times and power is no longer a problem for either (can't figure).
Still no ice production. Would happen to know with some authority if it's at all possible that every component of the "assembly" (heat coil, thermostat, motor, etc.) can work fine on a bench test but the unit could still be faulty? After $580.80 in parts already I can't trust Sears for an honest answer and it's about the only thing left that can be replaced. (at about $200). "Hint?" - I read somewhere that if a patch to T-H doesn't produce a "click" and "jumpstart" the harvest process then the unit needs to be replaced --- jumping T-H does nothing even with the power issue resolved.

 

Now I've been known to ask stupid questions so don't be hard on me.
But is there water flow? has this been checked? It can click on/off all day and if no water is present you get no ice.

 

... So water fills the mold and freezes, but the frozen water does not get pushed out in cubes by the extraction process? Does that summarize the problem?
... The diagram indicates that there is an up/down shut-off switch. Can you verify that thu shut-off switch is in the down position (On). ... Maybe jiggle it a few times .... A few sprays of contact cleaner may dislodge anything that has built up on its contact surfaces.

 

Now I've been known to ask stupid questions so don't be hard on me.
But is there water flow? has this been checked? It can click on/off all day and if no water is present you get no ice.

There is no water flow to the ice maker, but there is plenty of pressure and flow to the water dispenser in the door. I bench tested the valve/solenoid many weeks go and it pumps like a fire hose. Yesterday I again ( for the third time) tested the solenoid from the rear of the fridge with a direct AC connection - the solenoid "clicks and hums" when connected, but no water is flowing. I can only assume there is another shut off valve in the system which needs to be activated/opened to allow the water to flow - the water dispenser must have one (that works fine) but the ice mold fill line must also have one that is not being opened (I've wondered if there there is a "diverter" in there somewhere (like in a shower). Before you ask... several times I've full heated up the freezer door to room temp (which houses the ice fill lines) to eliminate the possibility of a frozen line.

 

... try taping the door light switch closed and then seeing what works.
... As suggested here:

 

... So water fills the mold and freezes, but the frozen water does not get pushed out in cubes by the extraction process? Does that summarize the problem?
... The diagram indicates that there is an up/down shut-off switch. Can you verify that thu shut-off switch is in the down position (On). ... Maybe jiggle it a few times .... A few sprays of contact cleaner may dislodge anything that has built up on its contact surfaces.

Hi again DRC,
Firstly, no, as I just said to another member the ice maker mold does not fill with with water. In fact, as I said yesterday, nothing in the whole "ice maker assembly" does anything automatically despite the fact that AC power is now getting to it. However, every component of the assembly seems to work fine... the heater heats, the motor turns 360, the thermostat is fine.

The up/down "shut off" switch you see in the diagram actually doesn't shut off anything. It is part of the 1-2 minute 360 rotational ("ice harvest") process of the motor/ejector blades/heating coils, etc. That switch is pushed on (and switched off) by a cam for 7 seconds which sends 120 AC to the 2 remaining wires in the 4-wire power harness (I just tested it again and it does just that). This is key as it is obviously the means by which the water solenoid valve is turned on to give the exact 6 ounce (?) fill (7 seconds) to the ice mold as my manual describes. Newest wrinkle... I just tried applying a direct 120 AC jump to those 2 solenoid wires in the harness (with the door switch closed) and nothing happened - it seems to me I should have heard the water valve trying to kick on.... but nothing.

 

... try taping the door light switch closed and then seeing what works.
... As suggested here:

Was testing when you sent this... thank - you. Don't know where you find these things - this would have been really great to start with 2 months ago. I've learned to always put a shim in to keep the switch closed when testing as initially I wasn't doing that - the little things will kill you.

 

Hi All, never fixed my problem but feel I owe the members... esp DRC_567 ... some final feedback. I probably had/have multiple problems. While that also seems a little unlikely they're all occurring at the same time it could happen but makes accurate diagnosis nearly impossible.

I'm pretty convinced at this point that the failure of my ice maker is primarily due to a failure of insulation (moisture buildup over 7 years) that simply can't be fixed in a side-by-side refrigerator without replacing the entire freezer door, so the water line to the ice maker freezes quickly regardless of the condition of the ice maker itself (i.e. saturated insulation). There is no reasonable way to install a water line heater.

I replaced the main (door front) power control board, and the 2 ice level (receiver/emitter) control boards and the entire ice maker assembly itself (per Sears Parts recommendations) and the problem persisted. I think I may have gotten a "partial" ice harvest once when I "thawed" the door to room temp, but that was short lived. (i.e. the line froze up again). So I'm coming to believe that none of my electronics had failed - hence - a word to the wise about immediately believing salesfolk that you must replace pricey electronic parts. The sales people are clueless as to what you might need technically.

Lastly, I was told by an expert on Just Ask that I needed to replace a control board to fix my problem of water flowing to the ice maker when the "Dispense Water" paddle was pressed. (feedback through a diode). Nice guy, helpful and knowledgeable, and he was right about the diode being the problem, but the diode exists in the harness that connects the double solenoid ice maker/dispenser water valve and not to the $295 control board. Had I not researched further I would have made a pricey replacement error. An honest mistake, but it just goes to show how much faith you can put into even the "experts" you're consulting - always get a second opinion if you can.

Had I paid the $125 for a Sears tech to come out to tell me that I needed to replace my entire freezer door (which is no longer available by the way), it would have been an insult to the injury.

I was able to return all of the parts I purchased and only avoided non-refundable $$$s because of the research and the help of people like you.
This has been a frustrating ordeal but a true learning experience about how to deal with 21st century appliances.

I hope my experience here can be helpful to the AAC community. Thanks again all.