Looking for some help regarding dryer thermostats, namely for Whirlpool. I checked the High-limit thermostat, cut-off thermostat, and recycling thermostat and found them to be allegedly good by continuity. Tested with audible as well. readings for all three were 0.00 and all beeped on the 'audible' setting. My question is, could any and/or all of the thermostats still be bad. I replaced them anyway. All replies are appreciated.

 

Did you use recommended replacements?
What was the issue with the dryer before the repair?

 

Could the thermostat still be bad? Yes.

Before I expand on my reasoning, let's talk about thermostats first.
There are thermostats , for temperature regulation, and there are high temperature cut off switches.

Thermostats are meant to be used over many cycles of operation.
High temperature cut-off switches are intended for safety and protection.

Any electrical circuit breaker can develop wear and tear at the electrical contacts, especially over repeated operation. The contacts must be designed to handle the voltage, current and expected number of cycles over its expected lifetime. Thus, even if the contacts appear to be closed, there is a possibility that the contacts will not be closed on the next open and close cycle, resulting in intermittent behaviour.

The other possible scenario is when the contacts are fused shut. This is obviously a very serious concern in the case of a high temperature cut-off switch.

 

Of course (See Packaging in Pics) as shown in the factory authorized packaging. In fact I specifically used the High-Limit thermostat rather than using the kit whereby one would have to cut and splice the end terminals.
* The issue was that the dryer may have not been completely drying on the first cycle, contingent upon the clothing inserted. When comforters were placed in on timed dry, 50 minutes was not enough to dry. Had to place in again. Sometimes clothes were almost dry yet believed the clothes could be better dried. * The timer runs for about three to four minutes at the end of cycle before turning 'off'. To my knowledge that facet has always been like that but uncertain. I replaced the heating element as well.

I even took off the dryer can and cleaned out along with the blower wheel, not that much lint. I previously did that about seven years ago. Anyways, that's where I'm at at this point.

 

What prompted you into replacing the high temperature limit switches?

 

Could the thermostat still be bad? Yes.

Before I expand on my reasoning, let's talk about thermostats first.
There are thermostats , for temperature regulation, and there are high temperature cut off switches.

Thermostats are meant to be used over many cycles of operation.
High temperature cut-off switches are intended for safety and protection.

Any electrical circuit breaker can develop wear and tear at the electrical contacts, especially over repeated operation. The contacts must be designed to handle the voltage, current and expected number of cycles over its expected lifetime. Thus, even if the contacts appear to be closed, there is a possibility that the contacts will not be closed on the next open and close cycle, resulting in intermittent behaviour.

The other possible scenario is when the contacts are fused shut. This is obviously a very serious concern in the case of a high temperature cut-off switch.

* Well, thank you very much for the courtesy. If you see my previous post replying to
sghioto, the contents are there. So, what else can I do? I have not tried the dryer yet with clothing but tested it and the heat seems to be o.k. Not wasting my time with a thermometer to 'check' the temp.

 

If your clothes are not drying properly, then you need to check the humidity sensor.

 

What prompted you into replacing the high temperature limit switches?

*See Above. It is recommended to replace in pairs: 1.) Cut-off thermostat and 2.) High- limit thermostat. I ordered the parts on Ebay and did not remove the dryer until I received all the parts. The laundry room is a task to move items and dryer. In this respect, I did not test the thermostats due to the amount of time to move "all the stuff". Upon my reasearch, most information led to the thermostats and some pointed to the timer. The timer would be highly unlikely for it works on timed cycles with no issues. Not going further that that. Will just purchase a new dryer. In previous years I replaced the belt on the drum and the wheels. Other than that,works well. The products today are just absolute junk. And if you're a tech you should know that.

 

If your clothes are not drying properly, then you need to check the humidity sensor.

Yes, I've read that. I'm not spending any more money on the dryer. We've had it well over fifteen years. I'm not going to make a dryer my life, I have other things to do. I just hate it when I cannot find the problem. Not to be redundant in any way, but I'm not checking the timer and/or humidity sensor based upon the comment by 'Mr. Chips'. That's enough for me to not go further.
Again , have not tried the dryer with the new components (Three thermostats) yet but there is heat so Why would it be the humidity sensor? To me, it would be more of a recyclying issue (thermostat). But then again, what do I know?

 

Too bad you are willing to give up so easily.

 

When the thermostat goes bad, check to see if the vent pipe is open. The dryer must have good air flow.
When the thermostat goes bad, check the heater. It is common for a wire to touch the frame in the heater.

 

Too bad you are willing to give up so easily.

Dryers are not that much. If you looked at the parts I installed, that is about a 1/3 of the price of a 'new' dryer irrespective of the parts previously purchased (Belt, wheels, and a heating element). This is the second heating element I installed. Did not even waste my time checking voltage, just replaced after looking at it. * By the way, I forgot, I repaced the dryer fuse as it blew out. The dryer was not starting at all, so I luckily repaired the issue BUT I've been trying to find what caused the fuse to blow. What do you think? The dryer worked (Started) after replacing the fuse (Pictured).

 

When the thermostat goes bad, check to see if the vent pipe is open. The dryer must have good air flow.
When the thermostat goes bad, check the heater. It is common for a wire to touch the frame in the heater.

No offense, but that's old news to me which I'm very much aware. I appreciate your interest though.

 

My hunch is that your vent to the outdoors is clogged. If a dryer seems to be running properly but doesn't dry as it should, it's usually because airflow is inadequate. Could be the plastic squirrel-cage blower wheel has loosened from the motor shaft, or simply that the vent tubing or outlet is clogged. Both are common failure modes.

 

My hunch is that your vent to the outdoors is clogged. If a dryer seems to be running properly but doesn't dry as it should, it's usually because airflow is inadequate. Could be the plastic squirrel-cage blower wheel has loosened from the motor shaft, or simply that the vent tubing or outlet is clogged. Both are common failure modes.

* No, absolutely "not"

 

* No, absolutely "not"

To both issues, the air path AND the blower fan shaft?

 

To both issues, the air path AND the blower fan shaft?

* Yes, already checked that.

 

And how is the dryer performing now with those parts replaced? Still misbehaving?

 

And how is the dryer performing now with those parts replaced? Still misbehaving?

I have not used it as yet, only testing the dryer with no clothes. There is heat being distributed in the drum. Again, I'm not wasting my time using a gauge to check the temperature. My sister has used it and have heard no complaints as she always complains when there is the least amount of anything 'not working'. I will try the dryer tomorrow to check functionality and let you know.

* The initial cause of the dryer malfunctioning was that the dryer fuse was open (blown) which completely 'stopped' the dryer from turning on. So, I replaced the fuse and the dryer became operational again. I researched the possible causes which led to mostly the thermostats, namely the recycling and high limit thermostat. I ordered all three thermostats: High Limit, Recycling, and the Cut-Off. Again, all three tested positive in diode as well as audible mode. Replaced them anyway.

** In you stating to check the fan shaft is somewhat moot as the blower wheel is spinning. Where did you get that from?

A great many indications from alleged experts were the vent being clogged (Dumb) and lint in the filter, in accompaniment with the blower wheel, moisture sensor, and timer. All these items (components) were checked and verified by me irrespective of the 'moisture sensor'. There would be little to no heat if it were the moisture sensor. Why any would point to the blower wheel is beyond me when the wheel is spinning freely. * What would cause the dryer fuse to create an open circuit is my question? And, is it normal for the timer to 'run' for about two to three minutes after a cycle finishes, then "shuts off"? I have not received any responses regarding those issues. In that the timer is briefly running after a cycle, the clothes are still dry.

 

Why any would point to the blower wheel is beyond me when the wheel is spinning freely.

I don't know the details of your particular dryer. The blower wheel in many models is made of plastic. I've replaced mine at least twice over the last 40 years.

The motor shaft is maybe 1/4" to 3/8" with a D shape. It's a well known failure mode for the plastic wheel hub to lose its matching D and become a circle. There's no longer much purchase to transfer torque from the motor shaft to the wheel. The problem can be intermittent for quite a while before it outright fails completely.

The wheel will spin freely and that's actually an observation that clues a repairman to look more closely. You should see the tub rotate as you spin the blower wheel, since the motor drives both the wheel and the tub. With a failed blower wheel hub, you'll see the wheel spin easily with little or no movement of the tub.

But, it sounds like your dryer is back in business.