In the late 60's, as a kid, I used a diode. About 20 years ago I made a few with a cat whisker ... much more difficult to tune but fund to try ... and they do work!Was this the "cats whisker" type?
In the late 60's, as a kid, I used a diode. About 20 years ago I made a few with a cat whisker ... much more difficult to tune but fund to try ... and they do work!Was this the "cats whisker" type?
Great ... didn't know they still published anything like this. Thanks!
Thanks ... I will take a good look at it. I am just starting to gather parts ... just one of those project that has been in the back of my mind forever. I decided I need to make time for "fun" projects ... I am not getting younger (as my wife reminds me)!My 2C. You will not be happy with that mighty midget radio design. The one I posted above #18 is more more likely to work and you can paint it up to match any thing you like.
The one I linked to will run on easy to get batteries.Thanks ... I will take a good look at it. I am just starting to gather parts ... just one of those project that has been in the back of my mind forever. I decided I need to make time for "fun" projects ... I am not getting younger (as my wife reminds me)!
Likely true as the value seems too low for a polarized cap and the end band was for inner or outer foil for old paper types.Certainly a lot of responses here. This is about the original topic:: That capacitor, 0.5 mFd, was a paper capacitor, no way an electrolytic cap!! The other components would not be a problem except for the tube and the coils. The TS can wind their own coils "fairly easily", a similar material that could be the right diameter, about 1 1/4 inches.
He's very likely correct about the .5 cap. It's been a long time since I played with the old stuff.OK ... so one person said the .5 was electrolytic and you say it is not. The drawing does not indicate electrolytic but I see in the picture, the cap has a stripe at one end. How can I tell if it is or is not?
Thanks for answering the question. I already know I want to build a SW tube set ... I know I want it to operate on batteries. I figured this was a simple design to play with ... thanks.
WOW ... lots and lots or reading !!!!!! I love old tech so a goldmine for me! ThanksHello,
Many old books can be found on the "bookshelve" of the worldradiohistory site:
https://www.worldradiohistory.com/Home-Book.htm
Bertus
There are a set of QR- codes that are also used as morse shorthand.Start with random codes with increasing lengths in this order, including the set you have mastered:
E, T
I, A, N, M
S, U, R, W
D, K, G, O
H, V, F
L, P, J
B, X, C, Y
Z, Q, CH
Give ebay a spin, they often have stuff like this:So, I got the bug to build a one tube regenerative radio.
I found a design from 1940 that looks promising.
Question ... what capacitors do I use?
There are only three ... a .0001 MFD ... a .0002 MFD ... and a .5 MFD
The first two are Mica and the third I am guessing was paper.
The radio should cover the SW bands ... so say 1.8MHz to 30 MHz
What is the modern equivalent caps?
I am also having a bit of problems finding the choke ... I am thinking maybe I can wind one? Might also be a bit of a rabbit hole ... started reading about RF winding (Pi winding) and litz wire and ....
Thanks so much ....
View attachment 347361View attachment 347362View attachment 347363
What a ripoff! $80, foo on that.Give ebay a spin, they often have stuff like this:
6 NOS Vintage .5 uf 600v Gudeman Tube Amp Capacitors XFS-187 New Old Stock
I will definitely look at your design. Might be a more proven design. This one came from Popular Mechanics ... not even an electronics magazine. ThanksRe: Capacitors.
Follow what C-5 is connected to,
One side, the Positive, or "Non-Striped" side,
is connected to 45-Volts-Plus, though a Pot, ( the Regeneration-Control ).
it then continues on to to the Audio-Transformer,
and the negative, or "striped-side" goes to Ground.
It may well be that in 1940 they used "Paper-Capacitors" in Power-Supplies, I really don't know.
That may have been good-enough with Battery-Power.
But it seems to me that a
modern, larger, Electrolytic-Capacitor would work even better in that application,
possibly with the addition of a 100nF-Ceramic-Capacitor just for good measure.
I also think you might like to check-out the PDFs that I provided
covering the assembly and usage of a Knight-Kit-Ocean-Hopper-Radio.
Mine had excellent performance back in the mid '60's, when I was around 9-years-old.
It used 2 very-common-Tubes, plus a Tube-AC-Rectifier, and an L-C-Power-Supply,
and was designed to Power a built-in 4"-Loud-Speaker, or Headphones, ( which I never got ).
This was my first "official", "real", DIY-Project that I got for Christmas 1966.
.
.
.
.I will definitely look at your design. Might be a more proven design. This one came from Popular Mechanics ... not even an electronics magazine. Thanks
! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !If you have money to invest this is likely the best tube set you can buy.
It employs 23 vacuum tubes,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-390A
Still likely used (from a few Apocryphal reports) as an emergency backup, backup receiver In the Navy today for some missions as it's nuclear EMP proof with all of those tubes. We had racks and racks of solid-state modern HF radios and one R-390A for shortwave radio stations for music or CW codes from all-mighty.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
ak