I was thinking if they are what I think they are I would have been happy with $100 for the whole lot.

But then I could be remembering something for what it wasn't too. Seems to be a more common problem as I get older and my brain has reached its capacity.

FWIW -- Immediately following the 'emergence' of LCD and plasma television display technologies, one couldn't pay to dispose of 'conventional' projection TVs/CRTs -- During the last couple years, however, they have become highly 'prized' by folks having discovered that at Ca. $500 a set, NOS or good used tubes are generally less expensive than a single replacement 'projection lamp' (applied to digital projectors) - with the added benefit that the former don't tend explode and contaminate indoor air with Hg vapor!

Then too there are us hobbyists! -- IMNSHO Any CRT capable of brilliantly illuminating a small room sans 'phosphor burn' is a thing of rare beauty to be cherished and preserved!

Best regards
HP

 

with the added benefit that the former don't tend explode and contaminate indoor air with Hg vapor!

Ha ha! HP that's funny coming from you who uses 175 watt Hg arc bulbs for residential lighting! At least you're smarter than Drew by leaving outer bulb intact which means you're brighter by being an itsy bitsy bit dimmer!

 

Ha ha! HP that's funny coming from you who uses 175 watt Hg arc bulbs for residential lighting!

Lemme tell ya! In over two decade's experience with many tens of lamps - I've not experienced spontaneous disruption of a 'standard' Hg vapor lamp! -- Metal-halide and Na vapor lamps explode all the time! As do the execrable JVC & Sony '4K' series projection lamps! -- Clear Sylvania and Caster branded lamps, however, operate through their EOL sans drama (at which time they merely fail to strike) moreover, I find the rated 25,000 hours useful operating life to be conservative

Best regards
HP

 

So what causes them to explode in projector applications? Are they just under built or something being in commercial lighting association bulb I have never been able to get a Metal Halide or HPS to explode no matter how far I over drove them and that was running 175 - 200 watt bulbs on 1000 watt ballasts.

Outright physical or thermal shock is about ony way I have ever been able to get them to blow up and even then it was not nearly as impressive of event as I was lead to believe.

 

Why do you wish to dispose of them?! -- High intensity CRTs are highly desirable devices! --- If you insist upon discarding them you might sell the set (all 3 tubes) on Ebay for >$500 (USD) -- I, for instance, paid $600 for a used set last summer with the runner-up bid being $550 (Via "auto-sniper" software, I expect) --- In any event they are both useful and fun to experiment with!


A solar BBQ, aye? I don't know about Smokey Bear but you're in with a chance for a hug from Al Gore


Well... I've certainly had some experience BREAKING CRTs

Best regards
HP

If you know how to ship them I will give you a deal and sell all three them to you for 75$ + shiping

 

So what causes them to explode in projector applications?

Good question! Inasmuch as said lamps, unlike all other Hg HIDs I've encountered, require forced air cooling, I can but guess uneven heat distribution plays a role

I have never been able to get a Metal Halide or HPS to explode

In my experience said failure mode generally occurs near the lamps' EOL -- Presumed etiology being arc vessel attrition?

no matter how far I over drove them and that was running 175 - 200 watt bulbs on 1000 watt ballasts.

FWIW It takes Ca. 5kW to instantly 'pop' a 175W Hg HID (They frequently run up to four hours at 2 kW)! -- Interestingly, arc vessel disruption corollary to over-powering is usually contained by the borosilicate (outer) shell --- An observation I find nothing short of astonishing in view of the fact that Hg HIDs run at an inner-vessel pressure of 15 PSI (metered) under rated power conditions!

In case you're interested -- my 'test ballast' was 'kludged' of a 10 kW 'plate transformer' followed by an 8 kW variac wired as a series 'inductive ballast' -- Crude but effective
Of course it goes without saying that I wouldn't think of 'torturing' Hg HIDs now that they've become an 'endangered species'

Very best regards
HP

 

If you know how to ship them I will give you a deal and sell all three them to you for 75$ + shiping

If only there were a sure way of privately conducting on-line business - I'd make you a better deal than that! -- I begin to think I really must look into employment of a 'straw buyer' -- Just last week I passed up 5 gallons of NOS 2-meter amp modules for the same reason... It's merely that, for privacy and security reasons, I prefer to avoid association of my (non-business) 'on line identities' with my name, addy, etc...

Please! Don't destroy the tubes! -- I guarantee that you can readily sell the set for $100 -- or, with patience, $500 (assuming they are in good used condition)

Best regards
HP

 

If only there were a sure way of privately conducting on-line business - I'd make you a better deal than that! -- I begin to think I really must look into employment of a 'straw buyer' -- Just last week I passed up 5 gallons of NOS 2-meter amp modules for the same reason... It's merely that, for privacy and security reasons, I prefer to avoid association of my (non-business) 'on line identities' with my name, addy, etc...

Please! Don't destroy the tubes! -- I guarantee that you can readily sell the set for $100 -- or, with patience, $500 (assuming they are in good used condition)

Best regards
HP

If I do sell them how do I package and ship them

 

If only there were a sure way of privately conducting on-line business - I'd make you a better deal than that! -- I begin to think I really must look into employment of a 'straw buyer' -- Just last week I passed up 5 gallons of NOS 2-meter amp modules for the same reason... It's merely that, for privacy and security reasons, I prefer to avoid association of my (non-business) 'on line identities' with my name, addy, etc...

Please! Don't destroy the tubes! -- I guarantee that you can readily sell the set for $100 -- or, with patience, $500 (assuming they are in good used condition)

Best regards
HP

I've done middle man selling and shipping a number of times for buddies who aren't set up for online selling or have much experience with doing overseas sales on eBay and whatnot.

I have no problem with an item showing up in a box with nothing more than my address and a note on who to send it too along with a cashier's check for my part of the deal either.

 

If I do sell them how do I package and ship them

For fragile items at minimum I recomend doing a multi layer bubble wrap then a one or more layer cardboard box or tube over that then a larger peanut filled box around that.

 

If you ship UPS, be warned, they do a 'Drop Test' on every shipment!
Max.

 

In my experience said failure mode generally occurs near the lamps' EOL -- Presumed etiology being arc vessel attrition?

I've wondered the same as well. The bulb I tried to kill were old faded ones that had poor arc striking or that would blow themselves ut once they warmed up. The best I ever did on destroying them was burning the inner electrodes into vapor that redeposited on the tube rendering them totally inoperable after that.

FWIW It takes Ca. 5kW to instantly 'pop' a 175W Hg HID (They frequently run up to four hours at 2 kW)!

Interesting. I've ran 200 watt HPS tubes at 1 KW for hours trying to get them to burn up all the way. Dang nice white light but a vicious amount of radiant heat while running. That always had me wondering aobut how well they would work as a poor man's IR quasi laser power source. Just put a bulb in a liquid cooled aluminum tube that has a mirrored polish inside and a proper lens to bring things down to a reasonable focus.

As a kid I played with old vehicle headlights and a magnifying lens and got pretty good results for making a burning beam, lit paper and cardboard in a second or two so I have been pondering on making an actual engineered purpose built high powered one ever since.

 

If you ship UPS, be warned, they do a 'Drop Test' on every shipment!
Max.

Repeatedly from start to finish of the transport.

 

Do I have to worry about the carrier thinking it's a bomb

 

... It's merely that, for privacy and security reasons, I prefer to avoid association of my (non-business) 'on line identities' with my name, addy, etc...

How do you even manage going online? I know, being paranoid doesn´t mean they are not coming after you, but still... I think in most countries you can get a P.O. box to get your stuff delivered, and pay with paypal or similar online method that protects your privacy from the second party.

 

How do you even manage going online? I know, being paranoid doesn´t mean they are not coming after you, but still... I think in most countries you can get a P.O. box to get your stuff delivered, and pay with paypal or similar online method that protects your privacy from the second party.

HP found out the hard way that PO Box holders are easy to ID and that paypal is a security nightmare cuz they're a faux bank so they're not answerable to legit banking compliance standards! Anyhow I used to laugh at her for being cautious until I lost six figure amount with no possibility of recovery in bitcoin scam! I say internet is not the place for business at all except with prepaid debit card so maximum loss is limited to amt on deposit!

Now with HP it's more a privacy thing cuz she gets very irritated with stalkers and shills and ppl seeking informal consultation and like that hassling her! So she keeps metaphorical _firewall_ between social identity (like on here) and web business identity (on ebay and like that) and professional identity. So it's nothing personal just too many times bitten and more times shy!
@Hypatia's Protege I say straw buyer is a great idea to bridge social and web business gap so you can guess who I have in mind if you ever go that route (And I don't mean JC or myself!)

If I do sell them how do I package and ship them

Aidayley when you ship any kind of tube with a neck it's good to lock bulb in place with cardboard grid like bottles in beer carton so tube can't tip or slide at all! Then follow advice in post 50 Just be happy CRTs can't have huge cantilevered stress like anode stanchion seal of Coolidge tubes

If you ship UPS, be warned, they do a 'Drop Test' on every shipment!
Max.

Maxheadroom they also like to punch 0.5cm holes in carton to like 3cm depth! So I say your Russian doll advice is totally necessary!

Do I have to worry about the carrier thinking it's a bomb

Aidayley I say not more than with any other shipment? When you mail it from center you have to declare contents on form so if they want to image it they'll know it's legit when image fits your declaration!

 

In case you're interested -- my 'test ballast' was 'kludged' of a 10 kW 'plate transformer' followed by an 8 kW variac wired as a series 'inductive ballast' -- Crude but effective
Of course it goes without saying that I wouldn't think of 'torturing' Hg HIDs now that they've become an 'endangered species'

HP that's just sick! When you were kid I bet you pulled leads off NE2 bulbs!

 

How do you even manage going online?

Succinctly with 'throwaway ISPs", proxies and VPNs... - And still, I have my troubles

until I lost six figure amount with no possibility of recovery in bitcoin scam!

As you know I feel you deserved it! --- That an (otherwise) highly intelligent individual would vest significant funds in an arbitrary "currency" is beyond ludicrous! - SMH!

So she keeps metaphorical _firewall_ between...

Personally, I find 'containment domes' to be a more apt analogy, but...

Best regards
HP

 

I've wondered the same as well. The bulb I tried to kill were old faded ones that had poor arc striking or that would blow themselves ut once they warmed up. The best I ever did on destroying them was burning the inner electrodes into vapor that redeposited on the tube rendering them totally inoperable after that.

Interesting indeed! Perhaps manufacturer and/or 'vintage' plays a role? FWIW the lamps having greatest liability to spontaneous disruption were purchased within the last three years and of Sylvania manufacture (Specifically Model No. 64471 and many of their 'Matalarc' line)....

I've ran 200 watt HPS tubes at 1 KW for hours trying to get them to burn up all the way. Dang nice white light but a vicious amount of radiant heat while running.

That's my experience as well -- The IR increases disproportionately to the luminous flux -- That said, they certainly do give even 'dear old Sol' a run for 'his' money as regards bright!

That always had me wondering aobut how well they would work as a poor man's IR quasi laser power source. Just put a bulb in a liquid cooled aluminum tube that has a mirrored polish inside and a proper lens to bring things down to a reasonable focus.

Or indeed a substitute for the Xe lamp in a flash-pumped ruby laser -- FWIW I've found 25kV 'starting pulses' sufficient to re-ignite (and, hence, 'strobe') very hot HIDs! --- Of course they'd require 'pre-heating' prior to strobing for maximum output...

As a kid I played with old vehicle headlights and a magnifying lens and got pretty good results for making a burning beam, lit paper and cardboard in a second or two so I have been pondering on making an actual engineered purpose built high powered one ever since.

That surprised me! Are you referring to incandescent headlamps? -- I've had my fun with 1kW incandescent projector lamps but never imagined that (≈200W ?) incandescent headlamp spectra was sufficiently rich in IR to produce a 'burning image' -- An apt illustration of the inefficiency inherent to incandescents, indeed!

Very best regards
HP

 

HP that's just sick! When you were kid I bet you pulled leads off NE2 bulbs!

No, not Ne2's -- However sometimes, following donning of my 'leathers', I'd occasion to 'discipline' F15T8s via bypassing of their ballasts during operation

TTFN
HP