Trying to desolder USB drive from circuit board

Thread Starter


Joined Oct 31, 2022
Hello true tech enthusiasts,

I'm trying to do this:

Long story short my USB drive stopped working after it would randomly not be detected at times on my PC.

Found out it was bent and a pin in the middle was slanted. Now it wouldn't detect at all. So I'm trying to desolder the metal part (USB) so I can even begin the solder process with the USB cord.

In the attached pics you can see before and after. I actually slightly straightened the middle pin in the before pic. It was bent.

Im using 325~ C to try and desolder. And Im making sure I don't hold it for 10 seconds to keep from damaging it. But it does get hot as I keep reapplying the iron.

Also the blue part makes the iron smoke cause of the coloring... I think Im doin something wrong. Can't figure out how to get the damn thing off. Used paste and liquid flux. Tried attack the corners.. no bueno .

Also mines is a 3.0 USB with 9 pins. All the vids online only show 4 pins with 2.0. but I was told I can just put one in the left n right and green/white in the middle.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.IMG_20221029_121122.jpgIMG_20221031_223228.jpgIMG_20221031_223126.jpgIMG_20221031_223205.jpgIMG_20221031_223311.jpg


Joined Jun 22, 2012
I would put flux on all the pins ,set the iron to 360C and slide the iron across all the pins back and forth until they all melt and pull it off with plyers.

Thread Starter


Joined Oct 31, 2022
Yeah it's not doing. Tried sliding them across all pins and even holding it longer. Seems the flux dries up and it just doesn't make any progress.

Guess I may have to try low temp flux?

I won't damage it if I kept trying will I?

Do you really need a heat gun to do this?


Joined Feb 25, 2013
Guess I'll try it again with a heat gun. It's a no go with just the iron.

Won't be anytime soon though.
Hi W,
When you remove it, be careful that all of the contacts are free, else you could damage the pads.
When it's removed clean the pads with Isopropol alcohol, then 'tin' each pad with solder, before using the heat gun to replace it, using flux.


Joined Jan 23, 2014
It looks like the connector shell is also soldered to the board. I'd try to remove the shell first, using a hacksaw or files or a Dremel abrasive disk to gently cut it apart. If you try that, protect the board with something like thick tape so that a slip of the tool doesn't cause new problems.