It would be safer for you to wire dead-bug style with no board. You need to make sure you wire correctly because rework could be painful.I don't have pcb, so I tried making it on a plywood
Triac - LED backwards - who's to say there aren't more errors in the drawing. I think none of us have enough confidence in the drawings or the skills of the TS. I'm not saying the TS is not smart, just saying there can be other errors as well. I'm not even sure how this (-Ve & +Ve) comes into play.If the 240V was actually a DC wall wart then C3 would block all current.
that's a small drill, photobombingThis is why I'm suspecting a wall wart. I can't imagine anyone building a supply and use a barrel connector on a 240VAC line. I could be wrong.
View attachment 250769
Nice chaser that, @Audioguru again. I built the 6v version years ago, it's been running in a corner of the kitchen for ages.There is no 5V wall wart. There is 240VAC feeding a 0.68uF capacitor in series with 100 ohms and feeding a zener diode. Then it has a useless rectifier that feeds the DC pulses to a filter capacitor and to the 555 oscillator.
I agree that it is not a Chaser circuit. Most CD4017 chasers drive each LED with squarewaves jerking sudden on and off. Some of my CD4017 chasers use a capacitor with each LED so that they appear to smoothly fade.
I have battery powered chasers that use a Cmos low current oscillator and a Cmos circuit that blinks each LED for a short time duration to save battery power.
Here is my 3V chaser circuit:
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by Aaron Carman
by Aaron Carman
by Aaron Carman