I took a quick look and don't see any WQFN-28 to DIP breakout boards, so you would be better to work with the HTSSOP package. Here's what you do. Starting on page 44 of the datasheet (click here) shows you the dimensions of the TSSOP package and its pins. You can see from the datasheet that the pitch between the pins is 0.65mm. Now find a TSSOP 28 to DIP adapter board with pin pitch 0.65mm, such as this one (data sheet here). Next check the land pattern recommended in the chip datasheet (page 46). They want center-to-center width of the pads to be 5.8mm. Look back at the adapter datasheet to see if it matches. Dimension A shows 3.1mm, dimension B shows 2.4mm. So the center-to-center horizontal spacing of those pads is 5.5mm. This is close enough to 5.8mm that it will work for a prototype.

So your chip should fit on this adapter and will be functional.. BUT notice that the chip wants a chunk of metal under it in the center. This is for heat dissipation, and the adapter board I linked does NOT have it. So the chip should mount and work on this adapter, but don't try to put a lot of load on it or it might overheat quickly. You can put a heat sink on it which will help some, but ideally you'll look for another adapter that has metal in the middle.

You can hand solder this one, especially since there's no metal in the middle. If you do find one with metal in the middle, you'll either need a hot air station (under $100) or you can also reflow it in a toaster oven (that you do not eat from). There are a lot of youtube videos on this.

If you only need one of these, look closely at the development board that I linked above. It costs more to buy, but should work out of the box and save you a lot of work.

 

Another option might be to wire the chip dead-bug style, i.e. upside down. This would enable a heatsink to be applied to the central pad, but would require wires soldered individully to the pins. Not a job for the faint-hearted.

 

Or use an available board with a different IC. Why it does to be that one?

Trying to control a 4-phase motor. None of the chips do this, all are 3 phase, but the m c33033 does 4 phase. Problem is it is only a controller need a driver, so picked the drv8881E as driver , any ideas what to use instead of Drv in this setup?

 

You might try contacting a company that makes them https://schmartboard.com/smt-to-dip-adapters/

They specialize in SMT to DIP adapters and they don't have one...

Another option is to make your own.

Checked, they don't have one

 

I took a quick look and don't see any WQFN-28 to DIP breakout boards, so you would be better to work with the HTSSOP package. Here's what you do. Starting on page 44 of the datasheet (click here) shows you the dimensions of the TSSOP package and its pins. You can see from the datasheet that the pitch between the pins is 0.65mm. Now find a TSSOP 28 to DIP adapter board with pin pitch 0.65mm, such as this one (data sheet here). Next check the land pattern recommended in the chip datasheet (page 46). They want center-to-center width of the pads to be 5.8mm. Look back at the adapter datasheet to see if it matches. Dimension A shows 3.1mm, dimension B shows 2.4mm. So the center-to-center horizontal spacing of those pads is 5.5mm. This is close enough to 5.8mm that it will work for a prototype.

So your chip should fit on this adapter and will be functional.. BUT notice that the chip wants a chunk of metal under it in the center. This is for heat dissipation, and the adapter board I linked does NOT have it. So the chip should mount and work on this adapter, but don't try to put a lot of load on it or it might overheat quickly. You can put a heat sink on it which will help some, but ideally you'll look for another adapter that has metal in the middle.

You can hand solder this one, especially since there's no metal in the middle. If you do find one with metal in the middle, you'll either need a hot air station (under $100) or you can also reflow it in a toaster oven (that you do not eat from). There are a lot of youtube videos on this.

If you only need one of these, look closely at the development board that I linked above. It costs more to buy, but should work out of the box and save you a lot of work.

"Development board that I linked above"
Which one?

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/DRV8881EEVM/296-43187-ND/5761589

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/DRV8881EEVM/296-43187-ND/5761589

Thanks but does not work as I am connecting it to mc33033. See my earlier post.

 

You can alter the board to connect whatever you need directly to the DRV8881

 

Hello,

In the datasheet of the eveluation board, this is written:



Bertus

 

You have not said what current per phase you need. That may affect the way you solder the chip to a breakout or purpose-defined board. For reference, 0.65 mm, as with the HTSSOP chip, is about as small as I have experience with. The center pad is both a ground connection and heat spreader (probably). I am not surprised that Schmart Board doesn't have an adapter. I have purchased from that vendor for a few years and sense that its offerings are becoming more limited.

A few years ago, its QFN boards were made with a relatively large hole (not plated) in the center. That allowed one to solder directly to a copper pad (if present) to provide ground. You could design a board with a large , plated through via in its place. You could solder a fine wire (e.g., 24 awg) directly to the chip's pad, either before placing the chip or after, then solder that to the via while pressing down on the chip to squish out molten solder. With a little care, I believe one could get both a good electrical ground and a reasonable heat pad.

EDIT: I do not use lead-free solder. Results many vary with the latter.

 

You have not said what current per phase you need. That may affect the way you solder the chip to a breakout or purpose-defined board. For reference, 0.65 mm, as with the HTSSOP chip, is about as small as I have experience with. The center pad is both a ground connection and heat spreader (probably). I am not surprised that Schmart Board doesn't have an adapter. I have purchased from that vendor for a few years and sense that its offerings are becoming more limited.

A few years ago, its QFN boards were made with a relatively large hole (not plated) in the center. That allowed one to solder directly to a copper pad (if present) to provide ground. You could design a board with a large , plated through via in its place. You could solder a fine wire (e.g., 24 awg) directly to the chip's pad, either before placing the chip or after, then solder that to the via while pressing down on the chip to squish out molten solder. With a little care, I believe one could get both a good electrical ground and a reasonable heat pad.

EDIT: I do not use lead-free solder. Results many vary with the latter.

I am

 

I am

2 A/ phase

 

That chip is limited to 1.4A per phase, as I understand it. You need a different chip.

 

Hello,

The maximum current delivered by the H-bridge is 2.5 A peak or 1.4 A RMS.
See the decription in section 3 of the datasheet.

Bertus

 

I am looking at this:


The TS has been vague about his requirements, but from a power standpoint, which I think is reasonable, 2 A is is more. Sentence fragments, such as "I am", are ambiguous -- at least to me.

 

I am looking at this:
View attachment 167455

The TS has been vague about his requirements, but from a power standpoint, which I think is reasonable, 2 A is is more. Sentence fragments, such as "I am", are ambiguous -- at least to me.

 

"2A is more"
Not sure what this means

 

Maybe you could use something like these? There are all sorts of options.

That's where I would go if I wasn't too lazy to order some...……..

 

That's where I would go if I wasn't too lazy to order some...……..

Thanks. Looks good except:
SSOP vs I need HTSSOP
Would still have to solder my chip to this?

 

Trying to control a 4-phase motor. None of the chips do this, all are 3 phase, but the m c33033 does 4 phase. Problem is it is only a controller need a driver, so picked the drv8881E as driver , any ideas what to use instead of Drv in this setup?

And you need all the features of the drv8881, which is the one giving you trouble? I don't know much about BLDC motor control, but i found an application note for the mc33033: https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/AN1046-D.PDF
Well, at least was found as a result for the mc33033, but actually use an mc33035 on the application note. However, it shows a discrete H-bridge implementation. Is that an option? Or maybe a different driver IC?