The design of the clamps requires the pad to be able to rotate to remain parallel to the clamped surface.Or glue it.
Thank you. I stand corrected.The design of the clamps requires the pad to be able to rotate to remain parallel to the clamped surface.
I am glad that it is a requirement because if I went through that much trouble without a reason for it, I'd be worried about myself.Thank you. I stand corrected.
Hi,I have used finishing nails as pins for cases where they wouldn’t behave.
Select a finishing nail of a good size ot be a pin for the pad.
Drill a press fit sized hole though the jaws and pad.
Pull the pad and drill a clearance sized hole where the press fit hole is (widen it)
Trim the nail to be just long enough to clear the jaw (I use about ⅛“ as my excess, and leave the head on, so the head is on one side and the excess out the other.) I also like to drink the headless end nice and flat, with a chamfer around it.
Replace the pad, drive the nail in. Usually, they stay quite well without help but if you have any problem, a blob of epoxy over the head will fix one that wants to stray.
The whole thing takes a coupe of minutes once you have done it a couple of times.
I do understand what you are saying. Those are a different design to the ones I have repaired where the connecting part was solid. with dimples in pads to snap into corresponding pips on the clamp arms.Hi,
Sounds interesting but not sure i understand completely.
The problem seems to come from the fact that the little 'pad' that has to rotate a little has a pivot part that is open on the opposite side, so it can pull right off the pin. So it seems like no battery what you use for the pin the little pad will still pull off. Now if the part that is open on one side was not open but a complete loop, it would not be able to be pulled off unless it was completely broken.
DId i understand you right or did i miss something?
I could post detailed pic of the issue if needed.
Basically the pad part has a section shaped like a "C" not an "O" os there is an open part of the part that goes around the pin. That open part allows the pad to pull off sometimes without too much force too.
I thought about epoxy too but as you pointed out it may prevent hte pad from turning, and also i dont think epoxy sticks to nylon very well so it would have to be a rather large blob which not sure if that would work either.
I thought about using Dyneema thread to wrap around the pad and pin, but that would be hard to do with a lot of champs and i might do 50 clamps, so it has to be somewhat easy to install also.
So far i have a lot of these clamps already with missing pads that are lost for good so i'd like to prevent this from happening to the new ones i got.
Ok thanks and here is a quick drawing of the pad the way it is now (Left) and how i would have liked it (right).I do understand what you are saying. Those are a different design to the ones I have repaired where the connecting part was solid. with dimples in pads to snap into corresponding pips on the clamp arms.
I'll have to look and see if aI have an of the sort you are describing.
Oh yes, but i happen to like the nylon ones better.I still stand by my comment. The newer cheaper plastic clamps have not been around any where near the time that the original metal ones have been. And the metal ones have no rotating end piece. This is the type I reference to -
View attachment 259435
have you even tried using one of yours without the tip? They still grip the work.Oh yes, but i happen to like the nylon ones better.
I have also read that the ends on those metal ones come off too. I have some somewhere but dont use them anymore.
And are prone to damaging it.have you even tried using one of yours without the tip? They still grip the work.
Oh yes you are right, they work very nearly the same without the rubber tip.have you even tried using one of yours without the tip? They still grip the work.
Why baking soda?baking soda and superglue
View attachment 259494
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