You do not know what you are doing and I also do not know what you are doing.

 

Get a multimeter. No ifs, ands, buts.
It is a sound investment.
If you are going to work with electricity having a multimeter can save you a lot of aggravation.

They often go on sale for under $10.

https://www.amazon.com/RANGE-RE831BL-Digital-Multimeter-Handheld/dp/B07S8PN23Z/ref=sr_1_19

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40508-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_20

 

Get a multimeter. No ifs, ands, buts.
It is a sound investment.
If you are going to work with electricity having a multimeter can save you a lot of aggravation.

They often go on sale for under $10.

https://www.amazon.com/RANGE-RE831BL-Digital-Multimeter-Handheld/dp/B07S8PN23Z/ref=sr_1_19

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40508-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_20

Ok thanks I'll look at getting one!

I retested the audio amplifier and its now working and playing the audio, I believe it was just down to the USB I was using was rather old, I tried a newer one and it works fine! I'm still concerned about the power jack not displaying a + or - though, is there a typical configuration that would help indicate which is +/-?

It is just the LED's now then I need to figure out. Can you think why these LED's wouldn't be working? I tried them with the step down converter as well as the 12v power adapter :/

 

Center positive is the normal configuration but it is not guaranteed.

 

Ok, I tested further down the LED strip and they appear to be operate as expected. I will attempt to properly solder the pieces together next to check they all work together.
Can someone please confirm if they can tell if my assumptions about the following connections are correct based on the above images?
Connection to left of wire - positive
Connection with wire - negative
Connection to right of wire (S/C) - grounding

thank you

 

Center positive is the normal configuration but it is not guaranteed.

Thanks Yaakov, I just posted some images of the power jack, not sure if that may help verify?

 

The polarity of the power jack is simply measured with a multimeter before it is connected with backward polarity.
The 12V LED strip is no-name-brand, cheap and sold on ebay so maybe it does not work. Its polarity is important.

 

Thanks Yaakov, I just posted some images of the power jack, not sure if that may help verify?

On the jack you should make the center pin positive and the outside shell negative an make sure you hook the supply up that way to the plug.

 

The red wire (positive) is connected to the correct terminal on the power jack that matches the schematic on the wall adapter.
But all connections need to be soldered properly.

 

The red wire (positive) is connected to the correct terminal on the power jack that matches the schematic on the wall adapter.
But all connections need to be soldered properly.

Ok so your saying the red wire in the images is in fact the positive terminal? Just confirming. I’m going to solder the connections as soon as I get some free time when my wife is away since it’s a surprise and all

 

On the jack you should make the center pin positive and the outside shell negative an make sure you hook the supply up that way to the plug.

Ok, so going on that basis the red wire in my images will be the positive one. Sorry Yaakov, how do you mean when you say make sure I hook the supply up that way to the plug since the power adapter is a set piece? I may be misunderstanding your meaning sorry

 

Not sure if this link will work guys (first time trying to share via iCloud) but it is basically a video of the motor, LED's & all 4 speakers working via the same power jack, looks like all I need to do now is brush up on my soldering skills and finalize the design to fit the dimensions of the components!

https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?...j0E79uH9QniIIiMnqg&f=IMG_1889.MOV&sz=51726903

 

I'd also like to thank everyone who's helped so far, I definitely couldn't have made all this come together (and have it work) without your expertise and support!

 

On the picture center is positive.

Thanks Annie, that's what I've gone with

 

Hey guys, new problem which I just realized, the push button I bought requires WAY WAY too much force to activate and will easily break the box its supposed to be housed in. I’m assuming there’s no simple way I can reduce the force needed to activate the press mechanism? If I can’t adjust it I’m going to have to use a different style of switch, possibly a rotary or slider seems better.

 

Here are a couple of suggestions:

https://www.creatroninc.com/product/14mm-spst-round-rocker-switch/

https://secure.sayal.com/STORE2/details.php?PID=2758565

 

Thanks

Here are a couple of suggestions:

https://www.creatroninc.com/product/14mm-spst-round-rocker-switch/

https://secure.sayal.com/STORE2/details.php?PID=2758565

Thanks for the suggestions, they look promising. I actually found a push ON/OFF switch that's a similar style to the momentary switches I'm using, it states that an action force of less than or equal to 4N (Newtons) is needed.
Would I be right to assume that this is quite an insignificant activation force and I can use this switch? The rated volts and amps are suitable for my power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/DIYhz-Self-locking-Latching-Button-Switch/dp/B07DWS195R?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

 

4 Newtons is a little little less than a pound of force, if that helps any.

Bob

 

4 Newtons is a little little less than a pound of force, if that helps any.

Bob

Thanks Bob,

I ordered them and will see how they feel, they should arrive by Saturday. It's through Amazon so if they aren't a good fit I can return them.

 

Here is another photo of a power jack and a correction: