The power supply I showed you is 6VDC, same as the motor's requirement.

Though it is complicated and you may not have time, slip rings are the way to do the power to the lights.

Ok, sorry for my lack of electrical know, so as I understand the wall warts provide a constant stream of power to the voltage they are specified to, and they have safety features built into them, such as fuses? I'm just wanting to make sure the motor would be protected from any power surges.


Ok, I'd like to try the slip ring method you suggest, do you think the areas I highlighted would be suitable locations for the rings? The width of the green opening is only around 8mm, I'm guessing I'd need to find a way of increasing the opening.
How would you propose powering the lights since the top piece rotates the power for the lights will also need to rotate correct?

 

Running a 6v motor on 12v means you are going to exceed the rated RPM, You can exceed it to a small degree, but 12v will most likely cause a problem, without some kind of controller, PWM etc.
.

Ok, if I use the below motor which is rated for 12V it should provide the correct RPM?
https://www.banggood.com/GW370-12V-...-p-1057812.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search

 

Ok, sorry for my lack of electrical know, so as I understand the wall warts provide a constant stream of power to the voltage they are specified to, and they have safety features built into them, such as fuses? I'm just wanting to make sure the motor would be protected from any power surges.


Ok, I'd like to try the slip ring method you suggest, do you think the areas I highlighted would be suitable locations for the rings? The width of the green opening is only around 8mm, I'm guessing I'd need to find a way of increasing the opening.
How would you propose powering the lights since the top piece rotates the power for the lights will also need to rotate correct?

You could put a fuse in the base if you'd like. As far as the slip rings go, you need to have one fixed to the stationary part and a pair of contacts on the rotating part that rides along it. The LEDs would be wired to the contacts. In this case I think you'd wire the LEDs in sets of two in parallel and then in series in order to have it run on 6V like the motor.

 

You could put a fuse in the base if you'd like. As far as the slip rings go, you need to have one fixed to the stationary part and a pair of contacts on the rotating part that rides along it. The LEDs would be wired to the contacts. In this case I think you'd wire the LEDs in sets of two in parallel and then in series in order to have it run on 6V like the motor.

Ok, I think to be on the safe side I'll add a fuse, is there a particular type you'd recommend for a 12V?

Wow, that's a brilliant way to do the power to the lights, I never considered that! Given the space I have for the LED's being only around 2.5mm, I was planning to use a very thin LED strip similar to something like this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273304274519

Do you think it would be possible to have the entire LED strip in one set? The LED's in the link above say 12V so they would be safe to use on the same 12V supply to the motor?

 

Ok, I think to be on the safe side I'll add a fuse, is there a particular type you'd recommend for a 12V?

Wow, that's a brilliant way to do the power to the lights, I never considered that! Given the space I have for the LED's being only around 2.5mm, I was planning to use a very thin LED strip similar to something like this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273304274519

Do you think it would be possible to have the entire LED strip in one set? The LED's in the link above say 12V so they would be safe to use on the same 12V supply to the motor?

They should work fine but you will have to use multiples of 3, and they are flexible only in the plane perpendicular to the LEDs themselves, they can't be made to curve alone the flat plane of the LEDs.

 

They should work fine but you will have to use multiples of 3, and they are flexible only in the plane perpendicular to the LEDs themselves, they can't be made to curve alone the flat plane of the LEDs.

Ok, I understand the flexibility your referring to, but may I ask what is the logic behind using 3 sets of LED strips rather than 1? Trying to make sure I'm interpreting the logic correctly.
I've attached a below image of what I understood from your description with the wiring riding along the base. Is what I marked correct with the slip ring being wrapped around the bottom in red? I've been trying to find a similar-looking item online to refer to but have been struggling to find something similar.

 

I found this example which is pretty close!

 

Ok, I understand the flexibility your referring to, but may I ask what is the logic behind using 3 sets of LED strips rather than 1? Trying to make sure I'm interpreting the logic correctly.
I've attached a below image of what I understood from your description with the wiring riding along the base. Is what I marked correct with the slip ring being wrapped around the bottom in red? I've been trying to find a similar-looking item online to refer to but have been struggling to find something similar.

The reason you need to use multiples of 3 is that 12V LED strip is wired so there are three LEDs in parallel, then those in series. Each 3 LEDs has a resistor and together they handle the 12V.

As far as the slip ring, the contact that runs on the ring needs to be spring loaded. The contact can be made of a spring metal so no separate spring is required. Usually. the contacts are bifurcated, like a two tine fork, to maintain contact.

 

Ok, if I use the below motor which is rated for 12V it should provide the correct RPM?

Yes. That will give you 3 rpm in stead of 1rpm, Just need a 12v Wall Wart supply etc.

 

The reason you need to use multiples of 3 is that 12V LED strip is wired so there are three LEDs in parallel, then those in series. Each 3 LEDs has a resistor and together they handle the 12V.

As far as the slip ring, the contact that runs on the ring needs to be spring loaded. The contact can be made of a spring metal so no separate spring is required. Usually. the contacts are bifurcated, like a two tine fork, to maintain contact.

Ok, I understand now, so using multiples of 3, depending on the spacing between the LED's and the radius of the circle I may need a higher multiple of 3, such as a strip of 30 total with the 2 resistors at each end.

I understand the slip ring now, is this something that can be sourced with using standard sizes or is this more of a bespoke item for each type of project?
I can see why It needs to be a spring loaded contact to ensure the connection is maintained, I'm trying to look online if there are any components similar to as you described, perhaps I am not wording my search correctly as I'm not finding many results?

 

Yes. That will give you 3 rpm in stead of 1rpm, Just need a 12v Wall Wart supply etc.

Ok that's great! Thank you

 

Ok, I understand now, so using multiples of 3, depending on the spacing between the LED's and the radius of the circle I may need a higher multiple of 3, such as a strip of 30 total with the 2 resistors at each end.

I understand the slip ring now, is this something that can be sourced with using standard sizes or is this more of a bespoke item for each type of project?
I can see why It needs to be a spring loaded contact to ensure the connection is maintained, I'm trying to look online if there are any components similar to as you described, perhaps I am not wording my search correctly as I'm not finding many results?

The resistors are connected to every three LEDs, built in. The slip ring will have to be fabricated but because of your very low current requirements you can probably do it pretty easily.

 

The resistors are connected to every three LEDs, built in. The slip ring will have to be fabricated but because of your very low current requirements you can probably do it pretty easily.

Ok, I'm trying to see where I can source a slip ring if any, or find something similar. Would the spring loaded contacts also be something I'd need to get fabricated or are there any off the shelf items for these?

 

Should be easy using copper tape on top of insulation around the center of the moving piece.

Your probably right, I'd like to see if I can source an actual ring though, i'd like to make it look as sturdy and precise as possible

 

Ok, I'm trying to see where I can source a slip ring if any, or find something similar. Would the spring loaded contacts also be something I'd need to get fabricated or are there any off the shelf items for these?

Model race cars use a spring loaded contact to complete the circuit with the conductors embedded in the track. I doubt you’ll need something that fancy but at least you can buy them easily. I can find a link to the ones I bought a while back, if you’re interested.

 

Go to an Au5o wrecker and pick up a scrap alternator, the rotor has a pair of slip rings and brushes.
I should be possible to adapt it to your needs.

 

FYI, slip rings can be purchased as a complete assembly. Search for “slip ring connector” on Amazon and you’ll find dozens. From 2 wires up to 12 wires or more. For $8 to $18 and more.

 

Model race cars use a spring loaded contact to complete the circuit with the conductors embedded in the track. I doubt you’ll need something that fancy but at least you can buy them easily. I can find a link to the ones I bought a while back, if you’re interested.

Thanks, but I think I just found exactly what I need, around this
https://wenproducts.com/products/brush-assembly-p54332?_pos=1&_sid=493b5a546&_ss=r

 

FYI, slip rings can be purchased as a complete assembly. Search for “slip ring connector” on Amazon and you’ll find dozens. From 2 wires up to 12 wires or more. For $8 to $18 and more.

After doing some searching I've started coming across copper gaskets that almost fit to my dimensions, hopefully I can adjust it slightly to fit a standard washer size as they're much cheaper than anything else I've been able to find
https://www.idealvac.com/Gaskets,-Copper/pl/2-94-879

 

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