You can try one big glob of solder over all the joints of the component your trying to remove (use the large knife tip).I've applied flux on both sides and pressed it on soldered joints but the wick is not absorbing.
I'm doing this for the build it yourself RTL-SDR project, I need to remove the USB connector, IR sensor or LED and antenna connector from the dongle,
For the solder to flow into the solderwick the wick must not chill the solder and solidify it. THAT takes a quantity of heat. Some times that method may work, many times it would not work. I wonder where your information came from.It's not the braid that heats the solder, it's the iron tip. The tip should never really touch the braid. Many so called specialists, the majority being on YT, show how tu use de-soldering wick between the tip and PCB but that's not the recommended way.
Whaaa? Hot air is amazing at removing smd components. You going to try and suggest Tweezers? No thanks.Why would someone want to use hot air to remove a SOIC8? There is way more convenient and safer ways to proceed. Pulling a SOIC8 should not take more than 5 seconds.
There's nothing slow about using hot air unless you have your temp set too low which is probably higher chance to damage the surrounding area since you'll be spending too much time there.Much too long and risks are higher unless you are talking about large BGA chips. You don't seem to like tweezers, bad experience?
Yes.You're talking about PCB rework, right?
Is the one you are referring to shown in the below images?The problem is seldom with the temperature, unless it is too low. The problem is usually with the ability to rapidly transfer heat energy to the solder. That requires some mass of metal, copper is best, at the point of contact and so the very low mass tips are simply unable to provide the heat. Unsoldering is different from soldering, and with using solderwick it is even more different.
AND, using a much higher temperature certainly does risk damaging components and lifting PCB traces.
Does your 40W soldering pen have a tip with much larger point?Possibly the tip identified as "900M-T-4C" is closest, but all of them seem much less than the one on my really cheap 40watt soldering pen.
Those are all quite good soldering tips, each suited for a particular soldering situation, and all seem designed to applyjust enough heat to produce a good connection. Removing solder with solderwick requires more heat, if one is to be able to heat both the joint and the mass of the solderwick.
Unfortunately indeed, keeping the cheap soldering pen heated all day will destroy the tip in just a few days. so switching it on only when needed is the best alternative, but it is less convenient. That is the trade-off.
What temperature should I use? Were you the one who said, it requires more temperature to melt?842°F! Simply get a good station. Wait! Get a de-soldering station.
It has been repaired.Are you talking about the 110°F toy? How come it is now up to 842°F?
Lets say when I'm soldering SMA, my soldering iron is at 200 F, if I spend around 5 minutes with the tip of the soldering on SMA connectors, can other components away from it be damaged with the heat transferring to them?The problem is seldom with the temperature, unless it is too low. The problem is usually with the ability to rapidly transfer heat energy to the solder. That requires some mass of metal, copper is best, at the point of contact and so the very low mass tips are simply unable to provide the heat. Unsoldering is different from soldering, and with using solderwick it is even more different.
AND, using a much higher temperature certainly does risk damaging components and lifting PCB traces.
A 200°F soldering iron won't even melt the solder. Eutectic alloy lead/tin solder, which has the lowest melting point, melts at 361.4°F. 200°F would not solder anything, but it also probably wouldn't harm any components except possible low grade switches and cheap plastics.Lets say when I'm soldering SMA, my soldering iron is at 200 F, if I spend around 5 minutes with the tip of the soldering on SMA connectors, can other components away from it be damaged with the heat transferring to them?
I meant to say 200 C by mistake I typed F. When I set the repaired soldering iron to 200 C, after sometime checked it's temperature with an infrared thermometer and it showed 167. F and it was able to melt the solder and it remained on connector for few minutes and other parts of the PCB also got hot, I'm wondering if it could have damaged anything?A 200°F soldering iron won't even melt the solder. Eutectic alloy lead/tin solder, which has the lowest melting point, melts at 361.4°F. 200°F would not solder anything, but it also probably wouldn't harm any components except possible low grade switches and cheap plastics.
First, IR thermometers will not give reliable readings from reflective surfaces. To measure the tip temperature of an iron, you need a purpose built thermometer like the Hakko 191 that uses a specialized thermocouple designed not to be contaminated by the solder alloy.I meant to say 200 C by mistake I typed F. When I set the repaired soldering iron to 200 C, after sometime checked it's temperature with an infrared thermometer and it showed 167. F and it was able to melt the solder and it remained on connector for few minutes and other parts of the PCB also got hot, I'm wondering if it could have damaged anything?
by Jake Hertz
by Duane Benson
by Jake Hertz
by Duane Benson