One thing it was nice to see, that GM service manuals have now gone over to using the correct symbol for battery common (chassis) on schematics instead of the Earth GND symbol they used for years.
(As in post #11).
Max.

 

Me and the wife purchased RX330 Lexus, she couldn't find her keys as usual. So, she grabs a spare, nope not her key but my SC400 coupe key. Putting it successfully into the ignition turns on the security system right? now she can't use her own as the column is locked. So, I say I can get it working then proceed to move the steering wheel, well you got it, now the steering wheel is locked also, then I decide well I'll hold the unlock down a few seconds, wonderful. Now all 4 windows are down and the weather is brewing, leather seats don't do well when they're wet. Luckily didn't rain last night, but the only way to shut down security is use the key in the driver side door while the car is locked.


kv

 

Just bought a new GM auto for SWMBO, I drove it home and ran very nice as expected, but it was so quiet, especially when starting (keyless Ign. just put your foot on the brake).
I did not get that usually cranking sound like the old car.
But driving it the other day, I noticed the annoying auto stop feature, every time you brake to a stop at light or stop sign, the engine turns off and indicates auto stop, as soon as the brake is released, it re-starts, because it is so quiet, I did not notice it before.
Just GM's method of saving gas feature.
Fortunately I found a work around on Utube!
Max.

My BMW X5 has this feature—I love it. It's very smart. The system is very smart, it only stops the engine when it will start readily (battery condition, ambient temperature, etc.). The BMW uses an electric air conditioner and water pump, and it does something I really like: it doesn't burn fuel when I don't need the engine running. This reduces emissions, and cumulatively, quite a bit.

The responsiveness when I start from a stop is just fine, and I can always provoke the engine to start if I need it running.

As I said, I like it.

 

As I said, I like it.

From seeing some, make that many, responses on a few auto forum sites, appears you may be among the minority!.
max.

 

Putting it successfully into the ignition turns on the security system right? now she can't use her own as the column is locked.
kv

No, the security system doesn't work like that. There is no ill effect of using the wrong coded key other then no start and a ghost DTC showing up.

Whats actually going on is your ignition has been damaged. Probably bent one of the wafers inside trying to force the wrong key and then force it more with the right key. Depending on the year of your SC (pre-2001) They use a different key. They look similar but its longer with more cuts. If its 2001+ SC then its the same keyway so its a bit of bad luck and was probably on its way out anyway.

I hate RX ignition repairs, they are a PITA.
You will need to remove dash trim around the ignition, the knee paneling and then the antenna ring and light ring around ignition cylinder. Sometimes for these its easier to drop the whole ignition and wheel lock assembly but sometimes you can just drill the cylinder itself out with out dropping the whole thing.

For some reason Toyota/Lexus does not sell uncoded ignitions for matching to your original system so you will then need to replace it and have the transponder/rke from your original key placed in a new key shell cut to match the new ignition for easy immobilizer matching or have the system reset and all new keys added.

If you end up needing to call a locksmith then make sure you find a good one. If your RX is 1999-2003 then expect to hear that the ecu needs to be re-flashed and other fancy terms to try and raise the price on you. What this means is there is no diagnostic connection to the immobilizer system and it needs to be edited manual in the eeprom. Just tell them you have your original key for cloning so its not needed.

Probably varies a lot depending on location but I usually charge about $450 for RX's repairs. All parts and programming included. If you have any questions about it or talk to someone and want to verify what they are telling you feel free to pm me.

 

My BMW X5 has this feature—I love it. It's very smart. The system is very smart.

Haha, just wait till you start having some minor electronic issues in a few years. Lets see how smart you think the system is then.

Since early 2000's Benz, VW and BMW are awesome for the first 3-5 years, after that they are nightmares.

 

After driving with key ignition for 65yrs, it is hard to get used to key-less entry/Ignition,! I still fumble for keys!!
Max.

 

No, the security system doesn't work like that. There is no ill effect of using the wrong coded key other then no start and a ghost DTC showing up.

Whats actually going on is your ignition has been damaged. Probably bent one of the wafers inside trying to force the wrong key and then force it more with the right key. Depending on the year of your SC (pre-2001) They use a different key. They look similar but its longer with more cuts. If its 2001+ SC then its the same keyway so its a bit of bad luck and was probably on its way out anyway.

I hate RX ignition repairs, they are a PITA.
You will need to remove dash trim around the ignition, the knee paneling and then the antenna ring and light ring around ignition cylinder. Sometimes for these its easier to drop the whole ignition and wheel lock assembly but sometimes you can just drill the cylinder itself out with out dropping the whole thing.

For some reason Toyota/Lexus does not sell uncoded ignitions for matching to your original system so you will then need to replace it and have the transponder/rke from your original key placed in a new key shell cut to match the new ignition for easy immobilizer matching or have the system reset and all new keys added.

If you end up needing to call a locksmith then make sure you find a good one. If your RX is 1999-2003 then expect to hear that the ecu needs to be re-flashed and other fancy terms to try and raise the price on you. What this means is there is no diagnostic connection to the immobilizer system and it needs to be edited manual in the eeprom. Just tell them you have your original key for cloning so its not needed.

Probably varies a lot depending on location but I usually charge about $450 for RX's repairs. All parts and programming included. If you have any questions about it or talk to someone and want to verify what they are telling you feel free to pm me.

Sorry, I didn't post I fixed it pretty easy. Called my local Mechanic, he said to in this case I had to lock the drivers door, then un-lock it. I never had any trouble inserting the original key. Yes, it is a security system response, but when the thief abandons the car because they can't start it from the column, you just stick your key into the Drivers outside door with the doors locked. Worked like a charm.

kv

Edit: Oh, and this is a 2005 Lexus Rx330.

 

Not to be argumentative but is not a reaction to any alarm I can promise you that. I am fairly experienced in auto locks and immobilizer systems. So much so that I am called quite often by the local Toyota/Lexus dealers in my area to work on these systems for them. There are a many reasons your mechanics theory does not work. For starters the ignition key switch is mechanical not electronic. Second, the immobilizer does not have any control over the switch turning or the steering lock releasing on this model. Third, the door lock while it does disable the beep beep alarm, has no connection with the immobilizer system. The fact the switch started turning again is not because you cycled the door lock, more likely the wafer that was previously stuck/binding by using the wrong key ended up dropping back into place. They are under spring pressure and normally should not get stuck but sometimes do from age/dirt&grime. The immobilizer system only cuts off fuel/fire to prevent the engine from running. Inserting an unlearned chip has no negative effect on the car and does not prevent the correctly coded key from working.

 

I am fairly experienced in auto locks and immobilizer systems. .

So can a duplicate keyless ign Fob be programmed or duplicated as a spare on recent 2017-2019 GMC auto's?
I see they sell them on ebay, but say a 'Locksmith' has to program them?
Some models had a button, mine does not.
Max.

 

Most of the older GM stuff and even the newer keyed stuff you can add additional keys manually but most of the newer prox systems need to be done diagnostically.
This is US specific. The rest of the world has always been done only via diag or eeprom on GM's.

 

After driving with key ignition for 65yrs, it is hard to get used to key-less entry/Ignition,! I still fumble for keys!!
Max.

It's just as hard going the other way, maybe worse. I drove a Prius with pushbutton start from 2013-2014 and then went back to keyed vehicles. Even now, I sometimes get in my truck and start mashing an already thumb-smudged spot on the dash where no button exists. I'm driving a Yukon with column shifter and just last week while trying to back into my driveway I reached for the radio, pawing to find the prius' stupid little F/R lever. That kinda shook me. I haven't done that in years; why now? Did I hear a song that took me 5 years into the past? weird.

 

most of the newer prox systems need to be done diagnostically.
This is US specific. .

I thought you'd say that!
Max.

 

I thought you'd say that!
Max.

When I leased my 2018 Equinox the dealer said to guard those, losing one was minimum $175 to replace the fob.

 

One up side is you cannot lock the fob in the car with door unlock within range.
Max.

 

One up side is you cannot lock the fob in the car with door unlock within range.
Max.

Don't count on it. It does happen even tho it should not on many vehicles. One way, is the battery dies in your fob and the car is no longer detecting that it is in the car.

 

When I leased my 2018 Equinox the dealer said to guard those, losing one was minimum $175 to replace the fob.

That is pretty cheap honestly (in the prox key world anyway). Some prox systems are easily around $400 to replace when all keys are lost and not much cheaper for a spare.

 

Don't count on it. One way, is the battery dies in your fob and the car is no longer detecting that it is in the car.

Now you'r creating scenario's!
How long does the battery typically last, I don't recall ever changing it on my old 2001 Aurora!
Max.

 

Now you'r creating scenario's!
How long does the battery typically last, I don't recall ever changing it on my old 2001 Aurora!
Max.

No idea in the real world, I change them constantly since I'm dealing with so many so my opinion is skewed. OEM ones seem pretty good usually and aftermarket is hit or miss....from years to weeks.
Its a shocker to some people. They think somethings is wrong with their car or they need a new key because the prox stops working. They also have no idea of the emergency spot to place the key to start the car in the event the prox system fails from LV or damage. You may want to check your manual so you know in the future just in case. Some use slots and some just use special spots like touching the button with fob, or placing the fob in a change pocket/cup holder, etc.. These are separate from prox/keyless system and will function like the older transponder chips by getting power from the receiver.

 

Haha, just wait till you start having some minor electronic issues in a few years. Lets see how smart you think the system is then.

Since early 2000's Benz, VW and BMW are awesome for the first 3-5 years, after that they are nightmares.

I have a 10-year old 328xi which is happily going along.