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Picture this...
- Thread starter cmartinez
- Start date
nerdegutta
- Joined Dec 15, 2009
- 2,689
Thanks.
After sanding, I had about 8 or 10 layers of D.1. This oil is very thin and you shall have enough on so the wood is saturated with it. Today I put on the 8th layer of D.2. I'll put another layer of D.2 on, and then sand the surface smooth with 400 grit paper, and finally have the last layer of D.2 on.
Owatrol D.1
Owatrol D.2
I'm sure that's true either way but have you experimented with chemical stripping agents? I used one on a porch project a few years ago and I cannot imagine doing without. I would layer on the stripper, place foil over it to keep it moist while it soaked into the old coating, and then scrape off the softened paint with a carbide edged scraper. I did some sanding at the end but I tried to keep it to a minimum.I got a lot of sanding in my future.
That wood finish is simply gorgeous!
nerdegutta
- Joined Dec 15, 2009
- 2,689
Thanks!
Many years ago I had some chemicals doing that, but I cannot find it. I've read that it is possible to do it with a kind of soap we have. The soap has gel consistency, and you are supposed to put it on like butter on a loaf of bread, and cover it with plastic. The next day, you can peel it off.
In the US, there are three principal types of chemical strippers that consumers can get at home improvement stores and with which I am familiar:
1) A pure solvent-based stripper, often with methanol, acetone, an aromatic hydrocarbon (e.g., toluene or xylene), THF, an hydroxy ether (e.g., butyl cellosolve), short-chain esters like ethyl acetate, and sometimes methylene chloride (dichloromethane). Since the purpose of a stripper is primarily to break the bond of the coating with the substrate, not dissolve the coating, I prefer chemical strippers with methylene chloride.
2) A "green" stripper with 1-methylpyrrolidone (NMP, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone )and other stuff. I do not like those strippers as they tend to dissolve the coating and make a goo.
3) Strongly alkaline strippers (e.g, PeelAway 1) which are basically a poultice of lye and chalk. They are applied with a spatula, covered with a plastic or burlap sheet to prevent evaporation and left for 12 to 24 hours. They definitely denature the coating and are great for use on masonry and on plaster walls. But, they can be messy. Their biggest disadvantage is that they need to be washed off and/or neutralized and can damage wood. An early version that was just trisodium phosphate (TSP) is pretty effective, but regulations on phosphate have almost eliminated its use. I have had poor luck with "TSP replacement" (sodium metasilicate).
For wood and most things, I prefer the first type. The solvents evaporate and chemical neutralization is not needed. Any remaining coating is often denatured enough to allow relatively easy removal with a carbide scraper. Type 3 is already a paste. Types 1 and 2 are usually somewhat gelled to they will stick to a vertical surface. When I can't use #1, I turn to heat.
The EPA and safety concerns have made getting versions with methylene chloride more difficult. It can also attack some reactive metals, such as magnesium, but is still usually safe on aluminum.
The soap you mention could be a gel with NMP. NMP strippers have a mild characteristic odor that is not particularly offensive. Strippers with methylene chloride have a very sharp characteristic organic odor.
John
1) A pure solvent-based stripper, often with methanol, acetone, an aromatic hydrocarbon (e.g., toluene or xylene), THF, an hydroxy ether (e.g., butyl cellosolve), short-chain esters like ethyl acetate, and sometimes methylene chloride (dichloromethane). Since the purpose of a stripper is primarily to break the bond of the coating with the substrate, not dissolve the coating, I prefer chemical strippers with methylene chloride.
2) A "green" stripper with 1-methylpyrrolidone (NMP, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone )and other stuff. I do not like those strippers as they tend to dissolve the coating and make a goo.
3) Strongly alkaline strippers (e.g, PeelAway 1) which are basically a poultice of lye and chalk. They are applied with a spatula, covered with a plastic or burlap sheet to prevent evaporation and left for 12 to 24 hours. They definitely denature the coating and are great for use on masonry and on plaster walls. But, they can be messy. Their biggest disadvantage is that they need to be washed off and/or neutralized and can damage wood. An early version that was just trisodium phosphate (TSP) is pretty effective, but regulations on phosphate have almost eliminated its use. I have had poor luck with "TSP replacement" (sodium metasilicate).
For wood and most things, I prefer the first type. The solvents evaporate and chemical neutralization is not needed. Any remaining coating is often denatured enough to allow relatively easy removal with a carbide scraper. Type 3 is already a paste. Types 1 and 2 are usually somewhat gelled to they will stick to a vertical surface. When I can't use #1, I turn to heat.
The EPA and safety concerns have made getting versions with methylene chloride more difficult. It can also attack some reactive metals, such as magnesium, but is still usually safe on aluminum.
The soap you mention could be a gel with NMP. NMP strippers have a mild characteristic odor that is not particularly offensive. Strippers with methylene chloride have a very sharp characteristic organic odor.
John
Last edited:
nerdegutta
- Joined Dec 15, 2009
- 2,689
The pH-value for the soap is about 11.5. Amongst other things, it has Potassium hydroxide in it. I've never tried to remove varnish this way, but I'll try it later this summer, or in the Autumn.
@cmartinez
Wonderful selfie!
Wonderful selfie!
My place has a small pond, which I have let go a little wild so it attracts all kind of birds. We also have black water snakes that are non-venominous, but they do eat bird eggs and are very common in Ohio. I am reducing their number whenever I can. There are two pair of Canadian geese. This pair had only one gosling survive (I believe the other pair had none, hence my anti-water snake campaign.) Anyway, those dumb, bird brain parents have been more attentive to that little gosling than many humans are to their children, at least based on what you read. They have spent the whole day with that little bird just walking around and guarding it while it learned to feed itself. Normally, you see the pair take off for a flight somewhere.
The golsing is right between the proud parents. It is not much bigger than an egg.
John
The golsing is right between the proud parents. It is not much bigger than an egg.
John
Spring is at full swing down where I live. You can tell because the peach tree in my backyard is finally giving sweet, ripe fruit. This is its way of repaying us for the loving care we've given it...
My bugambilias are being visited by beautiful yellow butterflies under the clear blue sky...
But also by strange, bizarre looking insects ...
My bugambilias are being visited by beautiful yellow butterflies under the clear blue sky...
But also by strange, bizarre looking insects ...
How do they taste?
I wouldn't dare digging my teeth in one of those things... I think they're scavengers and carrion-eaters...
MaxHeadRoom
- Joined Jul 18, 2013
- 30,663
and catfish... I guess... but the sea is an entirely different thing, ain't it?So are lobsters!
Max.
