hello guys....
I am working on a project where I have to measure the temp of the environment......for this I am developing a PCB on an EAGLE pcb softwre...I am a new bee in this field.....I am using CC2541 Bluetooth soc , TMP101 temp sensor, SOC Debug flash and a DC DC convertor.... I have made my board...since I am working alone in this project I need some help. I am attaching my board file .png please look at it and tell me if I am doing it right or not......

 

Why don't you just post your schematic?
I'm not going to trace your board to figure out if you are even starting in the right place..

Not to mention why not just buy the sensortag development kit for that SOC.. All the work is already done for you.
http://www.ti.com/tool/cc2541dk-sensor#descriptionArea

 

hello guys....
I am working on a project where I have to measure the temp of the environment......for this I am developing a PCB on an EAGLE pcb softwre...I am a new bee in this field.....I am using CC2541 Bluetooth soc , TMP101 temp sensor, SOC Debug flash and a DC DC convertor.... I have made my board...since I am working alone in this project I need some help. I am attaching my board file .png please look at it and tell me if I am doing it right or not......

There are a lot of components that are only connected on one side like C1, C11, C14, L2, C13 to name a few. What is cpmponent 128 with a "+" at the centre?

Allen

 

There are a lot of components that are only connected on one side like C1, C11, C14, L2, C13 to name a few. What is cpmponent 128 with a "+" at the centre?

Allen

It looks like he is using a polygon fill (notice the red dashed line around the outside--if that polygon has the same name as, say, "GND", then all of the components connected to ground automatically connect to that fill. That is why many components only appear to be connected on one side.

Clicking on the "ratsnest" button will show this better. Hopefully the OP can do this and post another image.

 

First things first: Does your design work? Did you breadboard this, track down all the errors, update the schematic, check all the footprints match the parts you're using?

Only when you can answer YES to each and every point should you start the PCB. That is, unless your budget includes several extra respins of the board. The industry average for board respins is between 2 and 3, and that is for people who do this day n and day out.

 

Then, secondly, have you manually verified EVERY trace and connection? EVERY one, starting at the inputs and checking all the way to all outputs. A printout of the PCB layout and some markers/highlighters are useful. Also, check ground plane and power plane connections, including verifying that a trace hasn't cut a plane into electrically separate sections. These tips will help you get a working PCB on the first try.

 

Also, why dont you post the schematic as well?