I'm new here so I apologize if I've created a thread in the wrong forum.

What I am looking to do is use a 12 inch linear actuator and a 2 channel wifi switch from amazon to move a counter weighted vertical slide door. I can add the links to what I'm looking to use if it's allowed. I believe I am over thinking my issue here.

I have a 12 volt solar battery pack I believe supplies 1 amp, that I would like to use to run the assembly. The actuator has internal limiter switches. The controller I'm looking to use has a common, NO, NC connection. The actuator is moving at most 3 pounds of force in one direction and no weight in the other direction as the door is counterweighted so it will close on its own but takes little force to open.

So my questions are;

1. How would I hook the 2 wire (battery positive and ground) from the actuator to the controller.
2. When the actuator reaches the end of stroke will it cut the power to the motor so it doesn't burn the motor out and/or run down the battery pack.

 

These are what I am looking to use.

 

I used the actuator from an easy chair. The chairs can be found in the trash or secondhand store. Save the power supply from the chair.
I know of several people that killed a chicken with this type of door. I do not power down the door, but let gravity drop the door. I use a string to pull up the door and gravity to pull it back down, to keep from killing a chicken.

 

I used the actuator from an easy chair. The chairs can be found in the trash or secondhand store. Save the power supply from the chair.
I know of several people that killed a chicken with this type of door. I do not power down the door, but let gravity drop the door. I use a string to pull up the door and gravity to pull it back down, to keep from killing a chicken.

Yes sir I have it the same way gravity down power up. I had the same thought when I started working on this. I can't use 120v as I don't have power available at the chicken coop.

 

How much current does the actuator draw (a) at normal running speed and (b) when stalled/ at start-up?

 

How much current does the actuator draw (a) at normal running speed and (b) when stalled/ at start-up?

This I am unsure of as I don't have the actuator yet and I can't find any previous user info on it with what they have found.

 

I can't use 120v as I don't have power available at the chicken coop.

My actuators run on 24Vdc. I have not tried them at 12V but under light load they probably will work.

 

My actuators run on 24Vdc. I have not tried them at 12V but under light load they probably will work.

The one I'm looking at is 12Vdc.

 

As usual, with stuff from amazon, there is not much information provided, and clearly no more except price and delivery weight. If that wireless module will function at the required distance. then the momentary Normally OPen relay output contacts can be used.
Of course, no information about the connections or the limit switches is provided, so all of the advice about connections will be a guess, no matter who provides it.

If the only connection is by two wires with reversing polarity to change direction, the control scheme will require two single pole double throw (SPDT) relays with 12 volt coils. These can conveniently be the common automotive style cube relays with 12 volt coils and contacts rated a maximum of 30 amps.

 

I'm new here so I apologize if I've created a thread in the wrong forum.

What I am looking to do is use a 12 inch linear actuator and a 2 channel wifi switch from amazon to move a counter weighted vertical slide door. I can add the links to what I'm looking to use if it's allowed. I believe I am over thinking my issue here.

I have a 12 volt solar battery pack I believe supplies 1 amp, that I would like to use to run the assembly. The actuator has internal limiter switches. The controller I'm looking to use has a common, NO, NC connection. The actuator is moving at most 3 pounds of force in one direction and no weight in the other direction as the door is counterweighted so it will close on its own but takes little force to open.

So my questions are;

1. How would I hook the 2 wire (battery positive and ground) from the actuator to the controller.
2. When the actuator reaches the end of stroke will it cut the power to the motor so it doesn't burn the motor out and/or run down the battery pack.

First off, I recommend that you use either a SONOFF 4CH PRO R3 or a MHCOZY 4CH. Both have their pros and cons but both have RF remote capable, DIN rail mountable, and terminals are large enough to easily work with.

That 2ch is not mountable friendly and if you get the one with the housing the wire is hard to insert. Even with ferrules.

1. I have diagrams if you still need. In the meantime look at how power windows and lock were controlled for the longest time. That will get you started. I have a playlist called "The simplest way to wire a chicken coop door with Linear Actuator" that you can view.
2. The common linear actuators are rated for 3mps. I test every actuator I get. I have around 15 or so on hand now. None have registered more than 0.6 amps in normal door operation and 1.6amps when I put around 150lbs of force. Best thing to do is if you get one is to get a bathroom scale and some boards to protect the scale and measure the amps with and without force.