Hello all, Here I am again looking for some good advice from you wonderful people.
I am soon to build a ' 75Ah deep cycle marine battery' based power supply to power astrophotography equipment,
I will be using a few Buck / Boost DC-DC converters to ensure the equipment gets the correct voltages as the main
battery will probably drop below 12V as it discharges and could be as high as 14.5v at full charge. The converters I'm
using are as follows:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391241142973?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The output voltages for the converters will range from DC 12V to 14.5V and possibly one set to 19.5v to power a Laptop
although the laptop supply is not definite yet. Load currents will range from 0.5A to approx 5A IF laptop was used.
The outputs of all the converters will be appropriately fused for their individual equipment and will then go to XLR conn-
ectors situated on the side of the enclosure where custom made leads will then supply each of the equipment with what
they need.
So all of above describes the basic foundation so now lets move on to what I'm here to get some assistance on..........
Overvoltage Protection......
The above mentioned converters, although they have their own built in fuse, dont have any kind of over voltage protection
on the output side and two of my pieces of equipment have a value of £1000 or above. What I'd like to do is to factor in a
Crowbar circuit on each output to protect it's load from an overvoltage situation should one of these converters go haywire.
My initial idea is to get little black projects boxes from Maplin / RS and put the crowbar circuits in them and have these little
boxes in-line on the supply cables a little way from it's XLR connector as there's not a lot of spare room in the enclosure.
Does this Sound feasible ????
Obviously there are loads and loads of different Crowbar / Active Crowbar circuits on Google using all sorts of different
idea's and components, and, I see mention here & there or 'Overheating' (the crowbar circuit I assume). I wouldn't like
the thought of overheating situations to begin with, a fuse blow would be nicer and safer, but as there is so many options
I really don't know which way to go.
In your infinite wisdom ow masters of all you convey - Would someone be able to suggest an appropriate Crowbar circuit
which would help me out here ??????
So many Thanks and not enough time.
Regards
Paul
I am soon to build a ' 75Ah deep cycle marine battery' based power supply to power astrophotography equipment,
I will be using a few Buck / Boost DC-DC converters to ensure the equipment gets the correct voltages as the main
battery will probably drop below 12V as it discharges and could be as high as 14.5v at full charge. The converters I'm
using are as follows:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391241142973?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The output voltages for the converters will range from DC 12V to 14.5V and possibly one set to 19.5v to power a Laptop
although the laptop supply is not definite yet. Load currents will range from 0.5A to approx 5A IF laptop was used.
The outputs of all the converters will be appropriately fused for their individual equipment and will then go to XLR conn-
ectors situated on the side of the enclosure where custom made leads will then supply each of the equipment with what
they need.
So all of above describes the basic foundation so now lets move on to what I'm here to get some assistance on..........
Overvoltage Protection......
The above mentioned converters, although they have their own built in fuse, dont have any kind of over voltage protection
on the output side and two of my pieces of equipment have a value of £1000 or above. What I'd like to do is to factor in a
Crowbar circuit on each output to protect it's load from an overvoltage situation should one of these converters go haywire.
My initial idea is to get little black projects boxes from Maplin / RS and put the crowbar circuits in them and have these little
boxes in-line on the supply cables a little way from it's XLR connector as there's not a lot of spare room in the enclosure.
Does this Sound feasible ????
Obviously there are loads and loads of different Crowbar / Active Crowbar circuits on Google using all sorts of different
idea's and components, and, I see mention here & there or 'Overheating' (the crowbar circuit I assume). I wouldn't like
the thought of overheating situations to begin with, a fuse blow would be nicer and safer, but as there is so many options
I really don't know which way to go.
In your infinite wisdom ow masters of all you convey - Would someone be able to suggest an appropriate Crowbar circuit
which would help me out here ??????
So many Thanks and not enough time.
Regards
Paul