My wireless remote leveler project is done. I have even found a source for the MXD2020EL accelerometer from Memsic (DigiKey @ $6.99 ea. FOB USA).

I now need a box to put it in. The GLCD display is 2-1/2" X 1-3/4", and the entire electronics can fit under that display. A box that is 3X4 plus battery space would be plenty big. The display needs +5V.

Nice boxes that have built-in battery compartments for 2XAA or 1X9V batteries are readily available. The problem is that my current need is about 0.08A, when you consider the display and the XBEE wireless. So, I have thought of using two lithium-ion 18650 batteries.

I cannot find any electronic enclosures that have built-in boxes for Li-ion batteries. Any suggestions? (As a last resort, I have located a box with a compartment for 4XAA batteries.)

John

 

I use Altoids tins or cookie tins for most of my projects. Just go shop for the right treat!

 

Radio shack used to have some 4x6 x 2 boxes that gave plenty of space. Cheap too -

Still on their website. Just search project box on their website. Most under $7 (for a 7" x 5" x 3").

 

Don't know about yours specifically but have you looked at PacTec, Polycase and Serpac?

 

Why not design the box yourself in a CAD program,and export it as a STL file. Then you ca get someone with a 3d printer to print it for you? Like Bill_Marsden did here.

 

You sketch up your requirements I would be glad to make you one. You can even make a battery holder as part of the design.

 

@JohnInTX Good suggestions. I had seen SerPac, but not the other two. I may just go with AA NiMH and forget the Li-ion, since enclosures that include holders for those larger cells don't seem to exist.
@Bill_Marsden Thank you for the offer. Let me see what's available first. The availability of low-cost 3D printers has really blossomed in the past 3 years. Prices now are less than what I paid for a LaserJet years ago. There is a cute video on SparkFun showing the unpacking and assembly of the unit it is selling.

John

 

They are addicting. And the price per print is very cheap.

 

... the price per print is very cheap.

Just curious; what is "very cheap"? Do you have a $-per-ounce estimate?

 

Last I checked it was 10¢/gram at maker space. If you own the plastic reel, which costs upwards to $40, it is much cheaper.

 

Last I checked it was 10¢/gram at maker space. If you own the plastic reel, which costs upwards to $40, it is much cheaper.

How smooth is the finish on printed items? I ask because I've never seen 3D plastic parts, but have seen stuff made by stereo lithography, and it needed hand finishing to get it smooth.

 

Electronic Goldmine, clear boxes with hinged lid, type 3, 3 7/16 X 29/16 X 2; type 4, 3 X 5 X 2 7/8; type 5, 4 X 6 X 2. 4 AA box, 2 3/8 X 2 3/8 X 5/8 in.

 

Don't know about yours specifically but have you looked at PacTec, Polycase and Serpac?

Polycase Polycase Polycase. Great enclosures, excellent support and good documentation.

 

Tayda electronics has die cast aluminum boxes at a good price.

 

Polycase Polycase Polycase. Great enclosures, excellent support and good documentation.

True true. They also have cheap CNC mods to their cases for cutouts and the like. Used them in several production products - nice. They do a good job of pad printing too.

 

How smooth is the finish on printed items? I ask because I've never seen 3D plastic parts, but have seen stuff made by stereo lithography, and it needed hand finishing to get it smooth.

This is a picture of one of my prints. You can clearly see the layers. The material is ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). The printhead holds about 230 deg C, and the bed it is printing on holds about 90 deg C.

This is two pieces, and they fit nicely together.

 

They can be sanded with sanding paper that has nice grit like 1000.

 

Check out okw enclosures. They make cases that look legit. Im sure you'll recognize some of them "oh, so that's where _______ gets their oscilloscope enclosures." They make handhelds, din rail mount, etc. I have used them in the past and the quality is good. Not sure if they sell the battery holders you want, but those can be found on ebayor amazon.

 

A common technique to smooth prints with acetone vapor. People use old crock pots or fry daddies to make a vapor chamber. It makes the finished object smooth but very shiny.

A quick dip in the vapor, just enough to barely wet it, will do it.

As with anything in 3D printers you get what you pay for. A high dollar unit set for max resolution has less striations than a low dollar unit or one that is set for low resolution. Max resolution takes longer to print, a lot longer, but does not use any more material.

 

Also wondering about part strength. Spent many years in plastic molding industry, and things made that had a "knit line" where the plastic came together when molding were not allowed, due to part strength issuses from knit lines. Knit lines usually due to low mold temp, low fill volume or bad venting of the mold. 3D printed parts seem to be made from many layers of knit lines?