I'm a little confused here... what kind of motor is the compressor using? Is it a single phase induction motor like this one?

Also, I don't see a capacitor anywhere in the original diagram.

And also that Dwg appears to incorrectly show the start switch open?
Max.

 

Sometimes I am kind of dum, I see now how this was easy

I forgot that the start cap is not strictly required in this kind of motor... guess it was my turn to be dumb today.... which I think is ok, as long as I don't exceed my allowed daily quota ...

 

1) It's a synchronous AC motor.
2) They normally come with a "current" relay which powers the start winding until the run winding produces enough back EMF to let the relay return to, "open" at the start winding. That's the relay on the left of the drawing.
3) Placing a hard start kit in there instead of a current relay seems very wrong to me. The hard start kit contains a PTC thermistor and a capacitor. When the PTC heats up, the capacitor is removed from conducting to the start winding. NOT as reliable as the original design because it depends on temperature (how recently was the last time the compressor started). If you have a short power outage, you could get into an infinite, "fail to start" cycle.
4) Some modern refrigerators use a solid state starter on a ceramic substrata, but the appliance parts store keeps a minimum of 250 of those in stock. (That indicates how often they go bad.)

Martinez, your drawing in post #4 is wrong. The easy method is to just attach to those 2 wires coming to the compressor when you want something to run with the compressor. 120VAC fan, 120 VAC to 12V converter, whatever. Just connect in the rear where it's convenient.

PS, refrigeration is my day job.

 

I forgot that the start cap is not strictly required in this kind of motor... ...

Actually that is odd, especially on a compressor that is usually a fairly high load, even when pneumatically or otherwise unloaded?
Max.

 

Actually that is odd, especially on a compressor that is usually a fairly high load, even when pneumatically or otherwise unloaded?
Max.

I was explaining that while you were typing.

 

I was explaining that while you were typing.

It was your turn.!
Max.

 

Sorry to be late. I was doing chores today.
The best part? I felt good enough to do chores today!

 

I felt good enough to do chores today!

Congratulations, easy does it!.
Max.

 

Yeah. I changed a water filter, vacuumed the carpets, and sprayed weed killer, but that's where I stop today.
After my injury in July, 3 in a day is good progress.

 

Martinez, your drawing in post #4 is wrong.

Yes, I just realized that it is indeed wrong... seems like I've exceeded my quota, and started using tomorrow's...

 

Problem is the start relays are all very specific to the motors with various current cutouts. And the start relay for this compressor is no longer available.
I actually called Tecumseh who made the compressor and the tech said it is made in 1992, and no parts. Tech said will be ok to run with the Supco 3 in 1 starter. So it does start and run well now.

This is an older 1992 manual defrost fridge in the boat made by GE, it is a 10 cufoot upright single door.

I wanted ice maker on the boat. So decided to add one to this fridge that is not designed for an ice maker. I drilled the holes in the back and wired up and made a support bracket. It does work, but is slower that I want. My house fridge will fill the icebucket in 12 hours.
This fridge makes 40 cubes in 12 hours without any fans, too slow.
Internal freezer is running from -5 to 0 *F.

I read the icemaker thermostat supposed to click on at 15*F.
I added some fans to see if it helps. But I might need to move the fans. Right now they blow air across the top of the icemaker. Maybe they should blow air onto the air maker?

Any idea about this? I was even thinking is there a warmer thermostat I could use? Thermostat has 2 plastic ears on the side. It is round and pushes against the ice maker tray.

IF I could get a thermostat of say 20 to 25 degrees, I think that would help a lot!

 

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/check/thermostat2.php

Here is a guide on the thermostat. My icemaker is new.

Anyone know where to get a warmer thermostat?

Mine is what is known as a 'Component Ice Maker'

 

http://www.sensata.com/klixon/thermostat-precision-6786.htm

I found a site that has these. Maybe get one rated at 20*F
maybe style 6786-2
I need to measure mine.

 

It seems to be making 8 cubes of ice per hour now with the fans maybe in the wrong spot.
It should be able to cut that time down, I am hoping I can get it to 8 cubes every 30 minutes.
Halfway through at 30 minutes, my finger feels the ice in the icemaker and it is solid ice.

I understand it needs to cool down as cold as possible, but it can cool down ejected in the bucket!

First thing will be to drop the fans lower so they hit the icemaker with cold air.

 

Here are some ideas. If you drop the cubes too soon they will be liquid in the middle. How liquid determines whether they empty out and leave hollow shapes sitting on a frozen puddle. If you want a freezer, don't buy a refrigerator. If you want the cold to stay with the icemaker, fashion a piece of styrofoam to limit the air from traveling to the bottom of the 10 cubic foot refrigerator. Adding a fan is the same thing as adding a heat source. Is the convection worth the extra heat? Only you will know.

and finally, try to find out how many B.T.U.s per hour that machine can move and do the math. Could it make 16 ice cubes per hour if it was 100% efficient?

 

http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-icemaker.html
yeah, I dont know if 16 cubes an hour is possible, but I think it could do it.
According to this site, an icemaker which dumps every hour is a strong icemaker.
Our main fridge seems quicker than that. more like 45 minutes to eject. Our main fridge has a strong flow of freezing air blowing into the icemaker and bucket. It is a Hotpoint side by side from late 80's with ice and water in the door. Works very well, except for the ice chute door gets stuck.

I still think I can improve the performance. About the styrofoam, I am going to insulate the outside bottom of the fridge with some aluminum faced white foam board and some aluminum foil.

I put 2 small PC fans above the icemaker. They each are .12 amp 12vdc fans. I am powering them with a 9vdc 200ma walwart.
So the fans are slower but still move air and wont input as much heat.
I thought to stir up the air flow, but now think I should lower them to blow directly on the icemaker tray.
Later I can post some pics.

 

here are some pics of the icemaker in the manual defrost GE boat fridge.

I had cut 3 holes in my bracket for fans, just used 2. I figure the holes help with air flow around the bracket.

I think lowering the fans, mount them between the icemaker screw attachments might help, blow air direct onto the icemaker.

I could test that by removing the bucket and put a fan pointing up at an angle to the icemaker tray.

Another view

And more of the fridge so you can see what it is like. It is keeping the ice cream cold. I have a probe in the icecream and it reads -15.4 *c

the ice bucket with a few cubes. Space on a boat is tight, this fridge fits the space well. A new 10 cubic frost free fridge with icemaker I would have to modify the boat to fit and it also costs $600!

 

Now replace that sliding shelf with a piece of stryofoam that will not allow the cold air to drift to the bottom of the refrigerator. Test under those conditions and you will find the best results for ice. ps, the thermostat will never be satisfied and the compressor will never stop if you do it right.

 

If I block it, wont the fridge be too warm?
I want it all. fridge, freezer and ice.

 

If I block it, wont the fridge be too warm?
I want it all. fridge, freezer and ice.

Well, now you've changed your request. Think, "energy budget". You have enough energy to make more ice or have a normal refrigerator. Do you see? Refrigerators aren't built with hidden capabilities that you merely have to tune up with special knowledge and slick tricks. If you want it all, leave it alone. It was already optimized to, "do it all", just not as much, "all" as you wish it could do.