I would say you have popped the reg. Take it out of the board and see if there is still current flowing. If so, look closely at your board layout.
Also, as your capacitor was in reversed, it may be damaged too although if it was swapped quick enough they often do survive.

When you say you fixed the reg, did you just turn it around or cross over a couple of pins to get it correctly wired?
An easy way is to bend the input pin up, then solder the remaining 2 pins into the board but one hole to the right, and than run a wire from the pcb input pad to the bent up pin.
When I do a pcb design for a reg, it has 4 pads, not 3. Then as it is In, Adj, Out, In, either pinout can be used. A handy trick to remember.

So i swapped the reg and also the cap and still it outputs 0v and 1.8A.

So must be a fault in the circuit design...????

Im at a loss....???

 

With it turned off, measure the resistance across the output.
Then the input. And between the reg pins.
With zero out it does sound like a short circuit somewhere.
You haven't by chance got the heat sink connected to 0V do you?
And the LM317 screwed to it without insulation?
The reg must be electrically insulated from the heat sink if the heat sink is connected to anything. Remember the tab is the same as the centre pin.
Measure with an ohm meter between the tab and the heat sink to check it is open.

 

When I do a pcb design for a reg, it has 4 pads, not 3. Then as it is In, Adj, Out, In, either pinout can be used. A handy trick to remember.

Thanks. Really good idea.

 

With it turned off, measure the resistance across the output.
Then the input. And between the reg pins.
With zero out it does sound like a short circuit somewhere.
You haven't by chance got the heat sink connected to 0V do you?
And the LM317 screwed to it without insulation?
The reg must be electrically insulated from the heat sink if the heat sink is connected to anything. Remember the tab is the same as the centre pin.
Measure with an ohm meter between the tab and the heat sink to check it is open.

So i had a look with my multi meter and found that i am getting a short between 0v input and + output.

Also on C4.

The reg is isolated from the heatsink.

Any ideas what wrong with the circuit?

 

hi K,
That track looks too close, scrape away any track between the C4 pins.
E

 

Hi Eric,

Good idea but ive already checked that and they are not touching

 

hi K,
Just recapping.
Is the PCB layout you have posted, the view of the component side of the PCB, looking thru a 'transparent' PCB at the track??
Which type of regulator are you using, is it a LM317.?
Do you have an upto date circuit of the PSU that you could post.?

Let's see if we can sort out this problem for you, asap.

E

 

hi K,
Just recapping.
Is the PCB layout you have posted, the view of the component side of the PCB, looking thru a 'transparent' PCB at the track??
Which type of regulator are you using, is it a LM317.?
Do you have an upto date circuit of the PSU that you could post.?

Let's see if we can sort out this problem for you, asap.

E

Hi Eric,

Yes its a view of the compnenet side looking through.

Using a LM 317 T


And its just a 32v HP power supply

 

as picture

 

Hello,

Did you have a look at the link I gave you?
https://xtronic.org/circuit/regulated-power-supply-lm317/

There is a complete design for what you want:



You can leave out the rectifier and change the pot to a trimpot.

Bertus

 

Hello,

Did you have a look at the link I gave you?
https://xtronic.org/circuit/regulated-power-supply-lm317/

There is a complete design for what you want:

View attachment 137167

You can leave out the rectifier and change the pot to a trimpot.

Bertus

Hi Bertus,

Thanks for this, i haven't ruled it out yet... Would quite like to get mine working if possible first

 

hi K,
This is the circuit I have copied from your PCB layout, perhaps you could double check it.?
I will keep looking in case I have made a mistake, but as drawn the PSU will not work.

E

 

Hi Eric,

this is the circuit the pcb was converted from

Ignore the LM 7805, should be LM 317

 

hi,
I am not querying the original circuit, it is your PCB layout which is wrong.
A quick look at R2 and D2 will show a problem.
E

 

So basically PCB wizard is shit! as it converted the diagram into the above layout...

Ive redesigned to the below..

 

hi,
I see that you agree the problem is with original PCB layout.
Your post #115 looks OK, it's not elegant but it should work, I would add a 100uF across the Vout to 0V
If you recycle any components, caps, diodes, check that they have not been damaged.
E

 

Hello,

As @ericgibbs said, the PCB should work.
I shifted some components using KolourPaint:



Bertus

 

Great!!

The reason for the layout is due to my heatsink and case design.

If i put a 100uf cap in with the output wires in the terminal block will that work?

Ive already printer the pcb you see.

 

Hello,

I shifted the D2 down, so you will have space enough for the heatsink.
I used KolourPaint again, so the lines can be fuzzy.



Bertus

 

Hello,

I had my first try with KiCad:







Bertus