Google searching for zps600s, you can see images and also video in youtube of this model.
The blue transparent lid appears not to have any mechanism lock except where the hinges it rotates near the top, there may be one but it is not visible without open the case.

The machine is for home used. Restricted access and a posting a warning note on the lid will be sufficient for make a shorting repair.

It could be the problem of lid switch *detecting*, it is reasonable to think that this detect is needed before it spin heavily.

The safe switch looks like it is not a mechanism lock(which is on or off), it is most possible some kind of sensors. In its faulty condition at present, the sensor is connected when measured with a multimeter

> When it's washing or rinsing, open the lid does it stop, or is the lid locked during washing??
At present, while washing, open the lid does not stop it.
You can open the lid very easy.

 

It seems that additional detail concerning the lid sensor will be required in order to provide any useful advice. If the sensor is possibly optical or somehow based on light transmission, then that would be completely different from the common mechanical lid sensor. In that case, shorting or opening the two white wires would be irrelevant.

 

It seems that additional detail concerning the lid sensor will be required in order to provide any useful advice. If the sensor is possibly optical or somehow based on light transmission, then that would be completely different from the common mechanical lid sensor. In that case, shorting or opening the two white wires would be irrelevant.

So, we do not need to test toggle on/off of the white wires while running?
Can we imagine how an optical sensor work, so we can substitute a finite resistor (value to be verified) for it?

Do anyone work with a washing machine? So we can see what kind of lid switch are available nowadays or just try google for it, such as a replacement available online.

 

As the back of the machine only have 4 screws, so we can go into it for some more details.
I found the wires come out near the bottom of the machine and two white wires are only seen connecting the pump. So contrary to the circuit diagram, it is possible that there is no such item called a lid switch in it. Or, it will be with the pump.
So, anyone know how to go from here?

 

It looks like the wire colour coding is different from the diagram. The lid switch will probably be located close to the lid release button but it may be located near the lid hinge. For us to try to see how to access the lid switch you will need to provide a MUCH BETTER picture of you machine than the one in post #21 Are there any labels on the connectors on the PCB that might identify the one that connects to the lid switch ? If you remove the white plastic molding you may be able to look inside then machine to trace the wires to the lid switch. Posting the model number of your machine may help us to find more information on the web.

Les.

 

The model I had mentioned it is
zps600s
and you can google for images and videos of this model. Tomorrow, I will touch along the complete wire to make sure there is no branch of the wire at the top.

I had no understanding of any fasteners inside so open of the case is not considered. It may possible break some of the plastic fasteners.

For the time being, I think we need to know how the bump switch works and this may be related to the white wire connected to drain pump.

 

Sorry, I missed reading the post where you gave the model number. I had tried that number (from the wiring diagram) and washing machine but it gave many hits but only on the words washing machine. I have just tried just using ZPS600s and got a number of hits but mostly in Chinese. I did find one picture of it but could not identify the lid release button. I dont think you should be diverted to the drain pump or Bump switch (Whatever that does.) as the error message points to the lid switch.

Les.

 

Until we found such lid switch, can we say that it is the lid switch problem. My initial thought it can also be a software bug because it is a programmed PCB.
There is no lid release button and lock. The blue transparent lid can be pulled up and rotated around the hinge at the top, where there is a spring.
Try using Chrome browser so you may get translation on the web page.
The error message just give you a hint telling you that what it thinks the lid is not closed.

 

Until we found such lid switch, can we say that it is the lid switch problem.

No. Until fully diagnosed we can't say anything of the sort. It COULD be a switch problem. But so far your testing seems to disprove that theory when you shorted the wires to the lid switch together. If anything - I'd have to believe the problem is NOT the switch. But you can change it if you want to.

 

Tony, I think the wires that he shorted together went to the pump not the lid switch. (See post #24)

Les.

 

@LesJones Saw those photos. Didn't make the connection between the pic's and the lid switch. I'd imagine there may be more white wires than just those two, but so far - I haven't seen any evidence to the contrary.

If I had the machine in hand I'd do whatever needed to be done in order to fully diagnose the problem. So far it sounds like the switch has not been tested. Those white wires??? Haven't a clue what they do. They may be some sort of feedback telling the control board the pump is running - I don't know.

At this point there's not much more I can add in the way of helpful comment.

 

**** The problem is finally solved. ***
Looking at the circuit diagram, there are 2 switches both are connected by white wires to the controller. And I found only two. My thought is that the two switches are connected in series.

I cut the white wires and tested if it will works. Everyone in the internet tells you that it can fixed by shorting. But the experiment fails.

There is a spring at the hinge, so you may expected that the lid switch can be there but you cannot see it.

Looking again at the blue plastic lid, you cannot imagine that there is any switch there.
Except one thing I noted today, there is a magnet. As I also have same magnets, I suspect if this is my own magnet. But a switch operated by magnetic force is possible.
Look back to the circuit diagram and also the circuit board, there is two yellow wires connecting a piece to the side of the panel.
So, the answer exposed. Cutting and shorting these two yellow wires fixed the error.
The plastic piece when tested with or without a magnet shows no connection with a multimeter.

There are times connections are loose and faulty apply. So you have to test everything and verify it.

I will try normal washing operation tomorrow but it is clear that it should have fixed.

 

**** The problem is finally solved. ***
Looking at the circuit diagram, there are 2 switches both are connected by white wires to the controller. And I found only two. My thought is that the two switches are connected in series.

I cut the white wires and tested if it will works. Everyone in the internet tells you that it can fixed by shorting. But the experiment fails.

There is a spring at the hinge, so you may expected that the lid switch can be there but you cannot see it.

Looking again at the blue plastic lid, you cannot imagine that there is any switch there.
Except one thing I noted today, there is a magnet. As I also have same magnets, I suspect if this is my own magnet. But a switch operated by magnetic force is possible.
Look back to the circuit diagram and also the circuit board, there is two yellow wires connecting a piece to the side of the panel.
So, the answer exposed. Cutting and shorting these two yellow wires fixed the error.
The plastic piece when tested with or without a magnet shows no connection with a multimeter.

There are times connections are loose and faulty apply. So you have to test everything and verify it.

I will try normal washing operation tomorrow but it is clear that it should have fixed.

... A magnetic switch.
Good job finding it.

 

A final word to this is you NEVER short the bump switch and I am happy that the bump and lip switch are NOT in series. The force can be so great that the washing machine will move.