door lock actuators won't pop up when disable alarm

Thread Starter

gordr

Joined Jul 2, 2017
7
I just put in a Megalarm 1300 system in my 67 Camaro. The one thing that's got me stumped is unlocking and turning alarm off, the door locks won't go up. When locking and turning alarm the actuators will close the door locks properly.

There's continuity from the white wire at the alarm central module through to the actuators module where the white wire hooks into the purple wire. Brown goes to brown on the door actuator module brown wire and the white goes to the purple on door actuator module. The brown works as the door locks shut upon activating alarm but white not working as not popping up door locks when disabling alarm. One other thing is that the actuators do work in popping up manually....if I pull up on either door lock the other door lock pops up in sync, which is good news but just leaving the problem of popping up upon disabling alarm. Below is the schematic for the system.

How can I test by hooking up something to the purple wire at the door lock control module? The schematics say the white and brown wires at the control modules to be 300 mA. Is there some way to flash the white to purple wire to see if it makes the actuators pop up the door locks?
Megalarm 1300 schematics.jpg
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
187
One of the issues that does happen when installing aftermarket door locks is that from time to time when you first install them they may need to be adjusted if it don't work. This means that you have tested both Lock and Unlock wires and they are producing the right signals from the brain. I would assume seeing you can put up and it will unlock other if that is how they were intended to work then it could be wired right...

So to test if you don't have a Test light or DVOM/DMM is to take the Master lock loose from the rod on the car and test again. If it works in both directions this time it was due to the install of the Actuator binding. They don't have much power to move rods that are old and rusted so may need some lube on the latches in the car as well. I am not saying your car is rusted or there is an issue just saying everything that could cause it to bind.
 

Thread Starter

gordr

Joined Jul 2, 2017
7
One of the issues that does happen when installing aftermarket door locks is that from time to time when you first install them they may need to be adjusted if it don't work. This means that you have tested both Lock and Unlock wires and they are producing the right signals from the brain. I would assume seeing you can put up and it will unlock other if that is how they were intended to work then it could be wired right...

So to test if you don't have a Test light or DVOM/DMM is to take the Master lock loose from the rod on the car and test again. If it works in both directions this time it was due to the install of the Actuator binding. They don't have much power to move rods that are old and rusted so may need some lube on the latches in the car as well. I am not saying your car is rusted or there is an issue just saying everything that could cause it to bind.
The system is brand new and the car totally clean as restored. Lock actuators appear to be working properly as when I manually pull up on a lock it pops up as does the other door in sync, and the same with pushing down manually, the other side goes down in sync. So, that doesn't show me any binding when they are popping up quickly. Just some signal from the main module through to the door lock actuator via the white then purple wire.

How can I test that white/purple wire to see if it's getting a signal from the main module?
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
187
Need brand so I can look up system for better understanding. So you saying that both driver and passenger doors can lock and unlock the other door when moved manually? If your talking about only moving driver lock by hand it still could be a binding issue.
 

Thread Starter

gordr

Joined Jul 2, 2017
7
Need brand so I can look up system for better understanding. So you saying that both driver and passenger doors can lock and unlock the other door when moved manually? If your talking about only moving driver lock by hand it still could be a binding issue.
Megalarm 1300 is the brand model. Both sides move each other up and down manually. When enabling alarm they both go down. But not going up when disabling alarm. Just need a way to test the 300 mA white/purple from main module on down...how?
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
187
OK well I am not sure if your talking about the DEI MEGALARM Mega 1300 or 3100?

Looking at your wiring I am not sure if that is something you drawn or something you got from the web...

So I just looked because as I am typing your post just came in. So It is 1300. Does it say DEI or was there a Manual for DEI name? Could be Sidewinder, Viper or Directed on it anywhere???

Also not sure of the 1300, However looking at what I know of DEI items White wire would be for Lights output and Brown would be for + Siren. I wonder if that is where the issue is?

White wire can be either + or - so maybe why one way is working other isn't... Most alarm systems by DEI and others that cloned them use a 3 wire harness with RED, BLUE and Green for door locks. They can be set to + or - Via relays. What is the model of your Door lock system. Was it part of the MEGALARM 1300 bundle?
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
187
OK sorry, I found what your system is, WOW strange that 2 people have like type name for alarm system...

So yes your system has a white and brown that is for door locks and 300ma output ground! So you would need to test the output of the wires to make sure they are getting ground to the locks box. It maybe that they were connected direct and not able to be ran that way and needs a relay. 300ma isn't much in the way for making locks work.

Your system is a Megatronixusa 1300

Sorry never used or installed on so hadn't heard of such a close brand to the Clifford by DEI Megalarm Mega 3100

EDIT. if you reverse your door lock wires does it work the other way and not the first. IF it still works the same way with door locks reversed then your wiring isn't right. I don't understand your DOOR LOCK system as they are not all the same and they don't say what is Input for lock or unlock so it is confusing..
 
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Thread Starter

gordr

Joined Jul 2, 2017
7
OK sorry, I found what your system is, WOW strange that 2 people have like type name for alarm system...

So yes your system has a white and brown that is for door locks and 300ma output ground! So you would need to test the output of the wires to make sure they are getting ground to the locks box. It maybe that they were connected direct and not able to be ran that way and needs a relay. 300ma isn't much in the way for making locks work.

Your system is a Megatronixusa 1300

Sorry never used or installed on so hadn't heard of such a close brand to the Clifford by DEI Megalarm Mega 3100

EDIT. if you reverse your door lock wires does it work the other way and not the first. IF it still works the same way with door locks reversed then your wiring isn't right. I don't understand your DOOR LOCK system as they are not all the same and they don't say what is Input for lock or unlock so it is confusing..
Yes, you're right it's a Megatronix Megalarm 1300. I switched the white and brown at the main module and neither of the up or down locks would work. Put them back the original way and just popping the locks down up enabling alarm. Below is another page from the manual with wiring leads description. How can I test the white wire leading out from the main module to see if it's putting out 300 mA negative?
Megatronix Megalarm 1300 output diagram.jpg
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
187
To be honest without knowing the Door lock make and even a wiring diagram it sadly sounds like there is a issue with not the alarm wiring but where you are connecting the alarm wiring to the door lock Module!

However without a LOW watt Light bulb or a DVOM/DMM or test light there isn't much in a way you can test. I think either the other way may be damaged so the output isn't offering the 300ma anymore or they are connected to the wrong place on the Door LOCK mod.
 

Thread Starter

gordr

Joined Jul 2, 2017
7
To be honest without knowing the Door lock make and even a wiring diagram it sadly sounds like there is a issue with not the alarm wiring but where you are connecting the alarm wiring to the door lock Module!

However without a LOW watt Light bulb or a DVOM/DMM or test light there isn't much in a way you can test. I think either the other way may be damaged so the output isn't offering the 300ma anymore or they are connected to the wrong place on the Door LOCK mod.
Everything is connected as outlined in the schematics and diagram. Door lock module is correctly wired as in the schematics....brown to brown and white to purple. Doors pop up manually converse from each other, normal. All else is normal, siren, sensor, blue light, all work perfectly. It's just that nagging little white wire connected to the purple that won't pop it up. I just need a way to test and see if there's output 300 mA negative from the white wire at the main module. How can I test that?
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
187
Well sadly you did... you see when you turned the 2 door lock output around that was testing that wire... They are both Ground 300mA output. Really it would have sent a change down that wire on the other side. So when it didn't work one way it would have the other... .

Now if your using CRIMP on connectors like Butt connectors or T Taps or some other type of crimp it could be in the connector it is bad as well. There are times that they need to be redone as well...

Sorry I couldn't be more help. If you were down the street I have plenty of tools you could use....
 

Thread Starter

gordr

Joined Jul 2, 2017
7
Well sadly you did... you see when you turned the 2 door lock output around that was testing that wire... They are both Ground 300mA output. Really it would have sent a change down that wire on the other side. So when it didn't work one way it would have the other... .

Now if your using CRIMP on connectors like Butt connectors or T Taps or some other type of crimp it could be in the connector it is bad as well. There are times that they need to be redone as well...

Sorry I couldn't be more help. If you were down the street I have plenty of tools you could use....
Crimp is good as continuity is maintained down the white wire thru purple via ohmmeter from the main module to the actuator module.

All I need to do is yank the connector off the actuator module and check the white to purple wire to see if it's putting out anything....i.e. 300 mA negative. How can I test that....anyone?
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
187
Ok I can't remember what one is working and what one isn't. Memory is not what it used to be....

So I will say this...

So your BROWN wire for LOCK works. When you take this Brown wire off the brown on the lock mOd. Then put the white wire on that brown and when you press lock it should do nothing and unlock from the remote button 2 should lock the door...

So white went to purple and didn't work...
Brown went to Brown and did work.

Reverse wires and the commands for lock and unlock should be reversed as well. if not then it sounds like the white wire is no good...

You have a Multi Meter....

Set the meter to 20v setting and put the Red probe on a good 12v source. Then you can test the White wire when you press the Unlock you don't have to press the lock before unlock. Once you did that your Multi Meter should show you 12v output when you press the unlock.

Another way to test and only do this if you know well enough how to use a Multi meter because if you don't change things back you could damage your meter or something other that your testing....

If your METER has current testing mode. That would be a meter that has 3 or even maybe 4 probe holes. You would move your Red probe to the Amp/current hole. Set your meter to test for amps. What you will do now is take your white wire off the Purple and put the meter inbetween the 2 wires to complete the circuit with your meter. Now if your meter has 10A or 20A if your meter has only the 20A setting. Now with the white wire connected to the Black Probe and the Red Probe connected to the purple wire of your door lock mod it should give you a reading of 0.300 on the meter....

Warning If your meter did have this setting and you did this test. Please be sure to turn off your meter, put the Red probe back to the Volt, Ohm hole and now it is ready for your next normal use. If you fail to do this and try and test something with your meter under volt or ohm it will at best blow the fuse if your meter is made with one. If not fused it can damage your meter or what ever it is your testing next.

James
 

Thread Starter

gordr

Joined Jul 2, 2017
7
Ok I can't remember what one is working and what one isn't. Memory is not what it used to be....

So I will say this...

So your BROWN wire for LOCK works. When you take this Brown wire off the brown on the lock mOd. Then put the white wire on that brown and when you press lock it should do nothing and unlock from the remote button 2 should lock the door...

So white went to purple and didn't work...
Brown went to Brown and did work.

Reverse wires and the commands for lock and unlock should be reversed as well. if not then it sounds like the white wire is no good...

You have a Multi Meter....

Set the meter to 20v setting and put the Red probe on a good 12v source. Then you can test the White wire when you press the Unlock you don't have to press the lock before unlock. Once you did that your Multi Meter should show you 12v output when you press the unlock.

Another way to test and only do this if you know well enough how to use a Multi meter because if you don't change things back you could damage your meter or something other that your testing....

If your METER has current testing mode. That would be a meter that has 3 or even maybe 4 probe holes. You would move your Red probe to the Amp/current hole. Set your meter to test for amps. What you will do now is take your white wire off the Purple and put the meter inbetween the 2 wires to complete the circuit with your meter. Now if your meter has 10A or 20A if your meter has only the 20A setting. Now with the white wire connected to the Black Probe and the Red Probe connected to the purple wire of your door lock mod it should give you a reading of 0.300 on the meter....

Warning If your meter did have this setting and you did this test. Please be sure to turn off your meter, put the Red probe back to the Volt, Ohm hole and now it is ready for your next normal use. If you fail to do this and try and test something with your meter under volt or ohm it will at best blow the fuse if your meter is made with one. If not fused it can damage your meter or what ever it is your testing next.

James
Thanks, James, I'll search out a DMM that has amps built into it. Keep you posted.

Gordon
 

Lumenosity

Joined Mar 1, 2017
461
I had this issue with my car.

I had to "tune" the connections by adjusting the resistor I used in small increments until it worked.

It can be a dance.
 
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