Do 22 AWG cable can hold 12V-10A max?

Thread Starter


Joined Dec 17, 2016
I have a 48V lithium ebike. And i wanted to use reducer to power 12V custom made rear LED strip, and also to power wifi router when blackout comes. Probably will put 12V inverters to power stuff too.

So im planning to use my DC DC reducer 35V-70V to 12V output. There's 10A listed, but dunno does it 10A input or 10A out. And here is the reducer.

And, im planning to use this cable, not sure it's gauge, but probably 22AWG. The cable itself looks kinda same to reducer's cable,just a bit thicker.
The writing in cable is just : <> TUKUNI CABLE <> MADE IN INDONESIA

I also have another cable like this. This thickness nearly same with reducer's cable. But has no writings on it.

When i strip the BOTH wire(that tukuni and green cable) by wire stripper tool, it can be stripped at 1.6mm size.

Im going to attach a three pin molex connector on it.
Been trying to get a bigger wire, but the wire insulation cant enter the molex housing,also cant crimp it.

Here is the connector

So.. Does it work? (and also how to make a safe cabling, because reducer's red cable is for battery +, yellow is output 12V +, and black is common on both yellow and red. I dont have idea to make a branch on black. Maybe Y shape cable? A bunch twists and solder + heat shrink?)


Joined Jul 5, 2008
Your inverter not going to be happy on a 22 awg
More like a 14 awg for what your showing

And. You not going to be happy with using a 48 volt bat at 12 volt then runing that to a inverter.
Find inverter to match your battery

Thread Starter


Joined Dec 17, 2016
thanks for the answer.

Anyway what cable that three pin connector support? (anyway we use cable here in MM, not awg, so yeah tell me in MM version)


Joined Sep 24, 2015
I would forget about using an inverter powered from your battery when power goes out. It's not going to last long before the battery is likely going to be dead. As for the LED lights, wire size depends on how much current the LED's draw.

Just because something is rated to handle 10 amps, such as a power supply, doesn't mean your load is going to use all 10 of those amps. LED's typically draw a lot less current (amps). 10 just means the max available. Think of it like a bucket of water. You can turn the bucket over and pour out the water very fast. Your bucket may have a capacity of 5 gallons (for example). If you cut a tiny hole in the bottom the water will drain slowly. If you cut a larger hole the water will drain out faster. Only if you cut the entire bottom of the bucket off will all five gallons come out all at once. Your LED's can be likened to the holes in the bucket. Suppose one LED draws the equivalent of a millimeter hole. VERY slow drain. Suppose you have 100 of those 1 mm holes - you're going to drain your bucket (power) 100 times faster. Now, suppose you put an inverter on there. A "Small" one. Imagine cutting a hole 20 cm in diameter. Going to drain very fast. Go with a bigger inverter and you go with an even larger hole. Eventually you will exceed the capacity of your bucket (or battery).

As for wire size - imagine trying to start a car engine using a 22 gauge wire. 1) Not going to work. 2) Wire is likely going to entirely melt. So the wire size needs to be sized to match or exceed the load. If you exceed the load then a fuse is called for. That way if there's a short circuit the fuse will burn out instead of your wire, your battery and your bike.

Just saying.


Joined Jul 5, 2008
A 1.1495 mm will work but a 1.2908 mm would be better the 1.1495 mm is probably easier to get in your neck of the woods
they both can handle 10 amps in short runs 10 feet or less. 3.048 meters.
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