Device (triggered by a switch) remotely activates & deactivates a light?

Thread Starter

conandrum

Joined Mar 10, 2024
108
Is my connection drawing correct with the 2 lights connected in parallel?
3A fuse should be OK in this situation? Don't wanna burn the car :)

Also any recommendation for a panel mount socket/plug for the LEDs?
(I opted for barrel=power, jack=sensors)
bmw trunk lights.jpg
 

sghioto

Joined Dec 31, 2017
8,634
Pinout on the IRF540 is incorrect.
The blue wire should go where the orange wire is.
The orange wire should go where the black wire is.
The black wire should go where the blue wire is.
The barrel connectors should be fine.
 

Thread Starter

conandrum

Joined Mar 10, 2024
108
Hey S,
Would you happen to know how may mW this contraption will be consuming while the reed switch is not triggered?
 

Thread Starter

conandrum

Joined Mar 10, 2024
108
I made a to scale diagram in order to find out what box to order.

1. Just soldering the wires as shown should be fine right?
2. Should I just glue the MOSFET with hot glue flat on the box base?
3. I do not suppose the MOSFET will need a heatsink - It should remain completely cool in this application right?
4. Haven't decided on the sensor yet. I need something discreet if I am gonna fix it (double-sided tape) onto the trunk door.

bmw trunk lights box.jpg


bmw trunk lights2.jpg


Shopping list: Does not include wiring.
BOX:
61x36x25 is perfect even though it might be too high, so I will try the 60x36x17 clamshell type too.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006381428975.html
RESISTOR:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32914660935.html
RCA plugs & panel mount sockets:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33055742680.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32728517134.html
BARREL plugs & panel mount sockets:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005862425091.html
MOSFET:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005933352536.html

Subtotal €8.90
Shipping fee €6.07
Total €14.96 (with loads of stuff to spare)
 
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sghioto

Joined Dec 31, 2017
8,634
1) Wiring is correct.
2) Should be OK.
3) I don't think a heatsink is needed. My calculations show the mosfet only dissipating appx 150mw when the LEDs are ON.
4) I leave that up to you.:)
 

Thread Starter

conandrum

Joined Mar 10, 2024
108
I am actually looking to get one of those too. Thanks again for pointing it out.
I am hoping for the least intrusive solution.

Settled on one of each:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000318373804.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006068040994.html

I also found some mini PIR sensors.
e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007296542341.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000479833042.html

Advantages:
1. I chose these because they can be directed towards the door, mounted on the trunk's side panels. Other kinds will fire towards the other side panel and might not get triggered easily.
2. Using these can directly power the LED's, making our box obsolete.

Their shortcomings are :
1. One has 2A output (borderline amperage for my LED's) & the other 3A (is ok for me).
2. no adjustable delay. You need to be moving every 20s or so. (other types have this and some have light control ie. work only in the dark)
3. anything moving in the trunk while driving will trigger the lights.

Having thought about it, I think I will give it a miss for now.
 
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Thread Starter

conandrum

Joined Mar 10, 2024
108
Hello again.
I received all parts today so I put the contraption together.
Unfotunately I think they sent me the wrong reed switch.
I ordered Normally Open, but I got a Normally closed I believe, since I get 12V output when the magnet and sensor are together.
Here are some photos.
 

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Thread Starter

conandrum

Joined Mar 10, 2024
108
Hello again.
I received all parts today so I put the contraption together.
Unfotunately I think they sent me the wrong reed switch.
I ordered Normally Open, but I got a Normally closed I believe, since I get 12V output when the magnet and sensor are together.
Here are some photos.
I just tested the reed switch and it is actually a NO as I ordered.
The problem seems to be the actual circuit.
It looks like it passes through the 12V by default and shuts it down when the reed switch closes (ie when the magnet moves away).
I want it the opposite way.
ie. 0V by default... ie. when sensor is open (ie magnet is far).
12V when sensor is closed (ie magnet is near).

Video:

@sghioto could you take a look please?
 
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