Connecting Bullet Headlight to 12v battery and switch

Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
The title says it all. There a bit more to it, but essentially i would like to connect a motorcycle 12v bullet headlight to a rechargeable 12v battery with a switch. I Know nothing about electronics so if someone could point me in the right direction that would be awesome. I would also like to connect the the battery eventually to a brake lever and brake light set up but thats another story.

heres the headlight
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KTL6940/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
battery
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
 

dendad

Joined Feb 20, 2016
4,451
The switches need to be rated at the current the lamp draws.

A center off switch can be used for the high/low, and a single switch for the fog.
 

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Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
I appreciate the reply. Its much more basic then i thought it would be. If i wanted to add this brake light to brake lever and turn signals, how much extra work would it take ? Also, how exactly do i connect the wires from the headlight to the battery ? Take the plastic snap off, spice the wires ? (i think its called spicing wires). Also, could you recommend a good (small) 12v battery rechargeable.

brake light w turn signals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9...olid=2F5T1WZXOVPYZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
brake lever
https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/brlewwipoalr.html#description

Also, if you think its to complex adding the brake light and brake lever, I could always just purchase one of those turn signal kits for bikes with remote control -- just not as cool, reliable.

To sum it up, most ideal would be the headlight, brake-light and turn signals - to brake lever. I've been trying to write up a diagram but, i dont much about the electronics side - more the mechanics.
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,501
My read on these is they come with a H4 bulb permanently mounted. That should be about a 60 Watt lamp so 60 watts / 12 volts = 5 Amps. Your supply looks to be rated at 12 volts 6 amps so you understand that on a good day you will get about an hour of use. As drawn your switch scheme will work.

Ron
 

Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
My read on these is they come with a H4 bulb permanently mounted. That should be about a 60 Watt lamp so 60 watts / 12 volts = 5 Amps. Your supply looks to be rated at 12 volts 6 amps so you understand that on a good day you will get about an hour of use. As drawn your switch scheme will work.

Ron
The description says Lumen: approx. 1750lm Voltage: 12V Wattage: 35W
could you suggest a rechargeable battery that would last 2 - 3 hours ?
 

rolo95

Joined Dec 25, 2017
18
35watts@12v is around 3amps
so you need a sealed lead acid battery
rated at least 9Ah ( amps/hour)
if it is higher it will last longer

9Ah means that is 9amps per hour
in other words, you can connect a load of 9Amps and you can use it for one hour
but if you are using 4.5Amps thats half the load and you will be ok for 2 hours

if you connect a load of 1 amp , you will be having power for 9 hours

i hope you get the logic here
there are formulas for calculating the amp draw when you have watts and voltage

the below battery is rated 12V@12Ah
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...ajc-csb-650-12v-12ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery

that means it can run your light for up to 4 hours
 

Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
My read on these is they come with a H4 bulb permanently mounted. That should be about a 60 Watt lamp so 60 watts / 12 volts = 5 Amps. Your supply looks to be rated at 12 volts 6 amps so you understand that on a good day you will get about an hour of use. As drawn your switch scheme will work.

Ron
35watts@12v is around 3amps
so you need a sealed lead acid battery
rated at least 9Ah ( amps/hour)
if it is higher it will last longer

9Ah means that is 9amps per hour
in other words, you can connect a load of 9Amps and you can use it for one hour
but if you are using 4.5Amps thats half the load and you will be ok for 2 hours

if you connect a load of 1 amp , you will be having power for 9 hours

i hope you get the logic here
there are formulas for calculating the amp draw when you have watts and voltage

the below battery is rated 12V@12Ah
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...ajc-csb-650-12v-12ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery

that means it can run your light for up to 4 hours
that makes sense. Do you know if they have a smaller (in size) battery with the same voltage ?
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,176
Is this a motorcycle bike? Or a Bicycle type of bike? If it has an engine, does the engine have a generator or alternator?
There is a whole lot missing from the description here.
 

Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
On this vendor webpage you can search for all kinds of parameters
in this case a made a query of 7Ah to 9Ah
but you can search all you want with diferent combinations of parameters
like by brand or capacity.

https://www.batteryjunction.com/batteries-chemistry-sla.html#/?Section=batteries-chemistry-sla&Catalogamperehoursah=7||9&search_return=all&Catalogbattbatteryvoltage=12
i was actually hoping to use a more comppact battery like one of these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rechargeab...Lv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

how could i make it work ?
Is this a motorcycle bike? Or a Bicycle type of bike? If it has an engine, does the engine have a generator or alternator?
There is a whole lot missing from the description here.
it is a, motor bike -- Built in my office using a 212 engine. Their is a fly wheel and coil system i could purchase for 100 bucks that would allow me to run a head light , with no problem - but im afraid it mat take away from the engine power, and i i didnt really want to go through that work but the more i look at it, the more i realize the cost of the battery, and headlight, and head ache to get it to work, may make more sense to save the extra 100 cash, spend 2 hours on a sunday and fix the headlight
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,176
i was actually hoping to use a more comppact battery like one of these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-Pack-DC-12V-9800-15000-20000mAh-With-Power-Supply-C/174138575035?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=3ee95d837744438cbeef13d02671d39f&pid=100677&rk=3&rkt=30&mehot=none&sd=173950711308&itm=174138575035&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2386202&algv=SimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

how could i make it work ?


it is a, motor bike -- Built in my office using a 212 engine. Their is a fly wheel and coil system i could purchase for 100 bucks that would allow me to run a head light , with no problem - but im afraid it mat take away from the engine power, and i i didnt really want to go through that work but the more i look at it, the more i realize the cost of the battery, and headlight, and head ache to get it to work, may make more sense to save the extra 100 cash, spend 2 hours on a sunday and fix the headlight
I built a "stealth" motorcycle years ago, which was not at all street legal. It was as close to invisible as I could make it, and so there was never any reason for me to expect others to try to avoid it, or to try to get in my way. Flat black and no reflectors or chrome, and no lights. It was always exciting to ride in the dark being totally invisible, but loud. I sold it long ago, but never had any problems.
 

Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
I built a "stealth" motorcycle years ago, which was not at all street legal. It was as close to invisible as I could make it, and so there was never any reason for me to expect others to try to avoid it, or to try to get in my way. Flat black and no reflectors or chrome, and no lights. It was always exciting to ride in the dark being totally invisible, but loud. I sold it long ago, but never had any problems.
I wanna say thats cool, but its pretty ballsy and dangerous - but in retrospect, thats cool. The bike isnt quite fast enough to be a stealth bike, tops out at about 50 - 60 im pretty sure, havent started the engine up yet, still have to put the brakes on, exhaust, weld the intake manifold, buy a seat and throttle grip lol but its going to be a daily cruise around town bike. Slap a 49cc sticker on it, call a moped, pay squat in insurance, no license needed - save some cash this next year - then purchase a car. Would you have any idea how to wire just the bullet headlight to a rechargeable battery ? Im thinking i could use the battery i posted, and just keep the headlight and low beam (30) when i actuually need it -- which is basically only to pass inspection
 

Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
I built a "stealth" motorcycle years ago, which was not at all street legal. It was as close to invisible as I could make it, and so there was never any reason for me to expect others to try to avoid it, or to try to get in my way. Flat black and no reflectors or chrome, and no lights. It was always exciting to ride in the dark being totally invisible, but loud. I sold it long ago, but never had any problems.
also, do you have any pictures of the stealth bike
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,176
I wanna say thats cool, but its pretty ballsy and dangerous - but in retrospect, thats cool. The bike isnt quite fast enough to be a stealth bike, tops out at about 50 - 60 im pretty sure, havent started the engine up yet, still have to put the brakes on, exhaust, weld the intake manifold, buy a seat and throttle grip lol but its going to be a daily cruise around town bike. Slap a 49cc sticker on it, call a moped, pay squat in insurance, no license needed - save some cash this next year - then purchase a car. Would you have any idea how to wire just the bullet headlight to a rechargeable battery ? Im thinking i could use the battery i posted, and just keep the headlight and low beam (30) when i actuually need it -- which is basically only to pass inspection
Here is some very important advice before you ride it the first time: Make certain that you have an adequate throttle return spring! The full-throttle ride on a bike without one is very exciting! And with no kill-switch, really really exciting.

Other than that, if you do not already have the light, a similar mounting scheme with a permanently mounted spotlight can work. BUT if you already have the light, a battery box under the seat is one option and a toggle switch on the box to switch it on and off is all that you need. Low beam should be enough to get it past the inspection. An LED light will draw a lot less power, likewise an LED stop/tail light. I am not sure if turn signals are required on a small-bike class bike.
Of course, without any idea as to what the bike looks like or how it is arranged all of these suggestions are just based on the one that I built, which had enough room under the seat in front of the rear wheel to mount a battery box about 5 inches high and six inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide, to hold a 7 amp-hour gell cell battery. That powered the ignition system.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
18,176
I do suggest at least investigating LED lights for the application. Besides drawing much less current they are usually far more rugged. That may matter if you are going to ride off-road or off trail, where the ride can be quite bumpy sometimes.
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,501
i was actually hoping to use a more comppact battery like one of these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-Pack-DC-12V-9800-15000-20000mAh-With-Power-Supply-C/174138575035?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=3ee95d837744438cbeef13d02671d39f&pid=100677&rk=3&rkt=30&mehot=none&sd=173950711308&itm=174138575035&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2386202&algv=SimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

how could i make it work ?


it is a, motor bike -- Built in my office using a 212 engine. Their is a fly wheel and coil system i could purchase for 100 bucks that would allow me to run a head light , with no problem - but im afraid it mat take away from the engine power, and i i didnt really want to go through that work but the more i look at it, the more i realize the cost of the battery, and headlight, and head ache to get it to work, may make more sense to save the extra 100 cash, spend 2 hours on a sunday and fix the headlight
Sorry I got lost but somewhere I missed a notification.

You can use what you linked to and I would just go with the 15000 mAH version. 15000 mAH is the same as saying 15 AH. Yes, the newer Li ion batteries are smaller and lighter. Just make sure it comes with or you have the ability to charge it.

Ron
 

Thread Starter

skipping_stones13

Joined Feb 6, 2020
20
Sorry I got lost but somewhere I missed a notification.

You can use what you linked to and I would just go with the 15000 mAH version. 15000 mAH is the same as saying 15 AH. Yes, the newer Li ion batteries are smaller and lighter. Just make sure it comes with or you have the ability to charge it.

Ron
how exactly would i wire the headlight, to switch, to battery ? would a fuse be needed ?
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,501
Keeping it simple to switch a lamp on/off we make it look like this.

Switch Lamp.png

Not really much to it. The bottom is chassis ground. You are only switching Battery (+).

Ron
 
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