Keeping it simple to switch a lamp on/off we make it look like this.

View attachment 200677

Not really much to it. The bottom is chassis ground. You are only switching Battery (+).

Ron

i guess what im asking is how i actually connect the components together. Headlight - switch - Battery
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195V8G4...olid=2F5T1WZXOVPYZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Lit...Lv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

https://www.amazon.com/TASWK-Motorc...RM3PFDV490A&psc=1&refRID=W89MBGE6FRM3PFDV490A

 

Sorry I got lost but somewhere I missed a notification.

You can use what you linked to and I would just go with the 15000 mAH version. 15000 mAH is the same as saying 15 AH. Yes, the newer Li ion batteries are smaller and lighter. Just make sure it comes with or you have the ability to charge it.

Ron

Those batterys shown on the ebay link have amazing specifications, in fact, hard to believe specifications. Certainly such a battery, 15,000 mA hours,=15 amp hours, should be able to deliver 1.5 amps for close to ten hours. So such a battery might be the solution. But I find those numbers amazing, especially for that price.

 

If you want High Beam, Low Beam and Halo you need a different rocker switch. They make and sell High Beam, Low Beam rocker switches and if you want for example a center off then you want an ON - OFF - ON switch where center is OFF. You can ru8n the Halo when low beam is on. The wiring scheme gets a little more complicated but not bad. I can give you a schematic but as to drawing what I call cartoons I don't do it. What did you have in mind for the DC connector? If you use connectors like that I suggest you buy them in AWG 18 wire gauge. Something like this. I also suggest depending on where all of this goes a fuse block or some inline fuse holders. Again at least AWG 18 with 16 preferred since I have no clue what the loads will be.

Ron

 

well, being that running the headlight at high is going to burn the battery quick, i wouldnt mind just running 1 switch - either the high or low beam being that its Wattage: 23W (10W/CREE XM-L LED + 3W/ Halo Ring) and i mainly just need the headlight to work to pass inspection. So, thinking about it, ill prob run a single 1 inch switch (handlebars are 1 inch) to the high beam for the inspection, then after that - re wire to the low beam (wont be doing to much night riding anyway) so at 23wat headlight with the 12v battery at 15000wah and switch, im thinking i wouldnt need a fuse ? How exactly would i do the math so that i dont blow the headlight or not provide enough power ? also, im guessing i would have to spice the wires from headlight side to the battery ? using the wire gauge you provided?

 

Inspection? If this is going to have an inspection and depending on your location you may wish to check which local or state or whatever laws apply. If you do not plan to switch between low and high beam and just want lights in general ON/OFF then your switch choice is fine.

Ron

 

B. Motorcycle headlamps shall fail safety inspection if:

1. Headlamp does not operate properly.
2. There are more than two headlamps connected on a single switch.
3. Headlamp is cracked or has holes which allow entry of water.
4. There is standing water in the headlamp.
5. Headlamp is out of proper aim.

doesnt say anything about high vs low beam caps.

Would you be able to write up a wiring diagram for me ? headlight - switch - battery - ? how exactly i connect the wires ? Maybe a short write up on how to put it all together + estimated run time ? ill throw you some cash for the trouble.

 

Not an issue of cash or being paid. Retired years ago. Let me see what I can come up with.

Ron

 

Not an issue of cash or being paid. Retired years ago. Let me see what I can come up with.

Ron
[/QUOTE

Not an issue of cash or being paid. Retired years ago. Let me see what I can come up with.

Ron

well i appreciate the help, ill be sure to pass it on. let me know if yyou come up with anything

 

well, being that running the headlight at high is going to burn the battery quick, i wouldnt mind just running 1 switch - either the high or low beam being that its Wattage: 23W (10W/CREE XM-L LED + 3W/ Halo Ring) and i mainly just need the headlight to work to pass inspection. So, thinking about it, ill prob run a single 1 inch switch (handlebars are 1 inch) to the high beam for the inspection, then after that - re wire to the low beam (wont be doing to much night riding anyway) so at 23wat headlight with the 12v battery at 15000wah and switch, im thinking i wouldnt need a fuse ? How exactly would i do the math so that i dont blow the headlight or not provide enough power ? also, im guessing i would have to spice the wires from headlight side to the battery ? using the wire gauge you provided?

You are not going to damage the headlight by not providing enough power. Worst case you would not get enough light out. A 23 watt headlamp fed by a 12 volt battery, if it is a 12 volt bulb, will draw just a bit less than 2 amps, and that should last over 7 hours easily. Probably an inspection would demand a hi beam/low beam switch, and probably also a tail light. I am not familiar with what the MOT requires currently, it was 35 years ago when I spent time in the UK, Birmingham area. Rules may have changed a bit since then.

 

Looking back at my 3 part schematic here is what you can do. Come off the Battery (+) followed by an inline fuse like I linked to. Then to one wire of your switch and the other wire from the switch goes to your headlamp high or low beam (you decide) and the LED Ring lights. The other side of the headlight can either be wired to chassis ground or run back to battery negative. Any other lights or accessories get connected to the switched side of the switch. As to inspection with high, low beam you are on your own for whatever rules you have.

Ron

 

Looking back at my 3 part schematic here is what you can do. Come off the Battery (+) followed by an inline fuse like I linked to. Then to one wire of your switch and the other wire from the switch goes to your headlamp high or low beam (you decide) and the LED Ring lights. The other side of the headlight can either be wired to chassis ground or run back to battery negative. Any other lights or accessories get connected to the switched side of the switch. As to inspection with high, low beam you are on your own for whatever rules you have.

Ron

would you mind writing up a diagram ? Ill understand better if i can view it visually.

 

would you mind writing up a diagram ? Ill understand better if i can view it visually.

Also, for north carolina it doesnt say anything about switching low - high for inspection.

 

would you mind writing up a diagram ? Ill understand better if i can view it visually.

All I can do is make a schematic, it depends on what we call a diagram? I already posted a schematic. So you are saying you can't work fromthat?

Ron

 

All I can do is make a schematic, it depends on what we call a diagram? I already posted a schematic. So you are saying you can't work fromthat?

Ron

oh i see, you said you posted a fuse to use, i cant seem to find it, would you mind posting it again ?

 

Got it and anything like this will work. When I have to fuse multiple circuits I look to a small fuse block but for just a few I use what I linked, including where I connect my battery tender on my bike.

Ron

 

Got it and anything like this will work. When I have to fuse multiple circuits I look to a small fuse block but for just a few I use what I linked, including where I connect my battery tender on my bike.

Ron

awesome thank you. and out off these batteries what would you suggest the best one for the job would be? 150000wah ?

 

awesome thank you. and out off these batteries what would you suggest the best one for the job would be? 150000wah ?

Yeah, because like Mr. Bill I often find the numbers to be exaggerated. This way there is some headroom. Overkill beats trying to see in the dark.

Ron