I worked at Truss plant, Table saws, chop saws, circular saws, in the many thousand cuts I made 1 cut I did was for a sharp roof angle cut. The wood I brought in from the stack 12x12 sitting on a pallet with a little ice on one side, I made one end cut then reversed to make the opposing end cut when suddenly the blade grabbed it flinging it into a cinder block wall, had that been a person they would be dead. The length of the cut was easily 18 to 20 inches long.

kv

Edit: My circular is also motor on the left side, but I am ambidextrous from playing guitar. I have a little trouble with a hammer, but I can get the job done.

 

I had to get my saw out of storage and mimic making a cut. Never had a problem lining up the cut. I always use the guide in front without any difficulty making a straight cut. Sometimes I’ll pull the blade back a little and lean back to check the rear of the cut, but that’s about it. Or even rarer, (after pulling the blade back) I’ll lean to the right and check the kerf. Now table saws...

 

It's the 'kick-back' that puts me right off... My advice? Use a table-saw (sans a 'self-destruct device') and get it done!

Sometimes a circular saw is more appropriate, and sometimes a table saw is more appropriate. I worry more about kickback from a table saw.

 

Not that I do a lot of cutting with either, but I've never had an incident with kickback with my circular saw. At least nothing that scared me.

'Scary'? No. -- Howbeit exceedingly annoying! Especially when it ruins an otherwise perfect cut...

My table saw on the other hand has delivered a terrifying incident. I'm really glad I was not aligned with the blade in that moment. I'd have a hole in me.

Indeed! They do tend to 'toss' the work piece on occasion -- Use of a 'riving knife' and standing clear of the 'line of fire' tend to help that

Both are difficult to climb up a ladder with while working on the roof.

Power saw enhanced acrobatics, aye? Some work is better hired! -- Liability disclaimers having been duly filed with one's solicitor, of course!

Best regards
HP

 

I worked at Truss plant

...But then then repair is a better option -- 'Strangulation' (and its sequelae) is, not uncommonly, a lamentable condition

Disclaimer: This post is wholly with friendly, jocular intent! -- To any who don't 'get it' -- my advice is please don't 'bust your balalaikas' trying!

TTFN
HP

 

...But then then repair is a better option -- 'Strangulation' (and its sequelae) is, not uncommonly, a lamentable condition

Disclaimer: This post is wholly with friendly, jocular intent! -- To any who don't 'get it' -- my advice is please don't 'bust your balalaikas' trying!

TTFN
HP

The "Vernacular or Jargon" is rich and beyond me, do other Academics get it? From the Disclaimer, I know you didn't mean anything by it, but dang girl I'm sure my Jaw would be on the floor my mind numb if I were to share 2 minutes with you. I get saws, but you, I'm not worthy.

kv

 

Re: circular saws:
It's the 'kick-back' that puts me right off... My advice? Use a table-saw (sans a 'self-destruct device') and get it done!

Best regards
HP

You need to adjust the blades depth for what your working on. This will stop kick back.

 

Porter Cable makes saws with the blade on both sides although Amazon says the left blade saw is currently unavailable.

https://uedata.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-423MAG-4-Inch-Circular-Blade/dp/B0001GUEKY

 

The "Vernacular or Jargon" is rich and beyond me, do other Academics get it?

Nothing so esoteric nor 'lofty' I assure you! -- Merely a 'play on words' -- as might be gleaned via a pan-disciplinary perusal of synonyms/forms of 'truss'...
Yea! I know! -- But the echo-chamber that is our 'EHT thread' pending @Aleph(0) 's return has me about three coupons short of a toast rack!

You need to adjust the blades depth for what your working on. This will stop kick back.

What do you recommend as appropriate for 3/8" polycarbonate ('plastics-cutting' blade installed) and 3/4" AC plywood (plywood-cutting blade installed)? -- My depth setting (in both cases) has been such that the blade just clears the work (by Ca.1/32") -- and without unqualified success

Very best regards
HP

 

What do you recommend as appropriate for 3/8" polycarbonate ('plastics-cutting' blade installed) and 3/4" AC plywood (plywood-cutting blade installed)? -- My depth setting (in both cases) has been such that the blade just clears the work (by Ca.1/32") -- and without unqualified success

Sounds like what we in the business call, "operator error".

 

Sounds like what we in the business call, "operator error".

--Emphasis Added--

Fair enough! -- So then - what do 'you in the business' deem appropriate depth adjustment Re: said materials? 'Shop-challenged' minds want to know!

Best regards
HP

 

Im no expert and not much of a carpenter. I usually just hold the saw on some horses and rip through but if you're having that much trouble your depth seams fine so its likely an issue with binding. Either poor support on peices being cut or your not holding your lines good and turning the saw to much trying to correct.

For the plywood clamp it onto a scrap peice of plywood that you can use as a table. For plastic blade you would need a plastic table top .Have your blade just past the wood your cutting and keep in mind you will be slicing into the tempory cutting table top as well just a little. This will keep the one your cutting from binding at all. It will also cut cleanly and not splinter as an added bonus. Clamp a 2x4 to use as a rail to run your saw along for a straight cutting line. Im sure this can all be explained much better by some you tube video but figured Id just give you the basic idea.

 

--Emphasis Added--

Fair enough! -- So then - what do 'you in the business' deem appropriate depth adjustment Re: said materials? 'Shop-challenged' minds want to know!

Best regards
HP

I have never heard the 1/32" rule before. I use 1/8" or more. The blade depth out of the cut doesn't have any real effect in my opinion and experience.

The plastic is always going to be a problem, due to it melting at the cut and then cooling and sticking to the blade. this then repeats over and over during the cut.

The plywood I don't use a so called plywood blade, they are made for cutting the old type wall paneling, stuff that was only around 1/8" thick. For 1/4" and thicker I just use a combination blade, those are made to do both rip and cross cuts. The brand of blade makes a big difference too, Freud is the only brand I use, they seem to be the most consistent in quality and last longer than any other I've found.

 

I agree that blade depth is a minor factor. I adjust to make sure the blade goes through by 1/8" to 1/2". Blade sharpness is a huge factor - the more the better - and perhaps the biggest thing of all is blade alignment. There won't be kickback unless the cut edge of the wood can contact the rotating blade. So if the work is well supported and the blade is kept straight, a kickback is very unlikely.

My circular saw is a very nice one but it irritates me that they put a crappy foot on it. I now know how important the foot is and to look for that although I'll probably never need to buy another one. The foot on my saw is just pressed metal and it flexes under normal pressure. So instead of a 90° cut, I can get anything from 80-100° depending on the force I apply to the foot. Fine for chopping studs but not for making furniture.

 

Another issue when cutting wood with a high resin content - or plastics - is a build up on the saw blade. With plastics, the speed of the saw melts as well as cuts the material. The result effectively makes cutting more difficult. When the blades cutting ability is compromised, it may get caught and bad results occur.

 

I have never heard the 1/32" rule before. I use 1/8" or more. The blade depth out of the cut doesn't have any real effect in my opinion and experience.

Adjusting depth appropriately puts less friction on the blade, allows cut debris to be ejected better, and is safer.

 

What do you recommend as appropriate for 3/8" polycarbonate ('plastics-cutting' blade installed) and 3/4" AC plywood (plywood-cutting blade installed)? -- My depth setting (in both cases) has been such that the blade just clears the work (by Ca.1/32") -- and without unqualified success

If you're getting kick back, the piece being cut isn't being supported well enough and it's binding the blade.

 

You all just say what's really on your minds and don't want to say out loud!
Hire a real carpenter....Problem solved!
Edit: It might just save him a finger or two.

 

You all just say what's really on your minds and don't want to say out loud!
Hire a real carpenter....Problem solved!

A professional does an adequate job quickly (if you're lucky). I prefer to do a good job slowly. If you don't mind taking the time, you can easily justify buying your own tools with the money you don't have to give away to a so-called carpenter.

 

A professional does an adequate job quickly (if you're lucky). I prefer to do a good job slowly. If you don't mind taking the time, you can easily justify buying your own tools with the money you don't have to give away to a so-called carpenter.

I know I wouldn't need a carpenter BUT some people would be better off hiring one when their own capabilities lets say "don't measure up to the task". This could be due to getting older, bad eyesight or not being acquainted with the tools at hand. Yes a carpenter would cost more money but take a lot less time and get a job probably done better with a more professional appearance.

And as stated might just save a finger or two.